I was removing the valve covers and a hose above it ripped off while attempting to remove. It pretty much broke off at the end where the clamp was.

I don't know the name for it, part number, or what goes through the hose. It's the hose next to the evap hose though. The one with the green cap lol, sorry for my ignorance. I can't tell you much more than that, I'm new to cars.

Do I need a specific hose or does any hose off a auto store work?

Here's some pictures, hopefully they help




Thanks!

 

On my phone right now so harder to look up parts. Vacuum line maybe? 17302
https://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/...acuum-piping/2

If not poke around that site should be able to find it.

 

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genu...&uid=210729&q=
It is a vacuum hose but not the 17302 as mentioned. It's actually the 17345D. Just wondering, Is it still long enough to connect after everything is back on? I don't know how far down it goes but if you can't get to it easy enough, you could just cut the hose and put in an extension connecter. (with new clamps of course) Same principal as the "hose with the green cap".

 

Thanks for helping.

The hose is very hard. I'm not sure if it's by design. I'm assuming when new, it was soft and flexible. It moves still, but almost shatters when you apply a decent amount of pressure.

Can I try seeing if it's long enough to reinstall? Or does the end have to be bigger from factory?

Also, is the green connector a coupling? As in someone did it to make it work or is that intentional? Thanks!

 

Another question, do I buy the hose clamps that go next to it on both sides? It looks like they're different clamps.

One is 17345D and I'd you click on it it says 9046712056, with a "*2" on it. What's the *2 for?

The other is 96132-41100 without any attachments. Why is there a difference?

​​​Btw, is there an option somewhere to buy a bunch of clamps? Like a kit, 20 of this size, 20 of another etc. Or do you buy as you go?

Thanks again
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Your clamps look fine I see no reason to replace them, that hose is soft when new. For buying OEM style clamps in bulk have not seen such a thing. *2 usually means quantity required.

 

I hate to be so curt but if you're "new to cars" what are you doing pulling valve covers with the timing belt already removed and most of the electric relays exposed ?!?

 

I wanted to learn to work on cars to build my skills. I like the car so I figured I'd do it on a ls400.

I'm new to cars, but not mechanically inept I suppose. I can get around so long as I have guidance. I've been using guides and posts to do the work. The only thing I've done so far that wasn't part of a guide is do the vc gaskets while still installing the belt.

I'm assuming since nothing is getting turned on, taking the covers off, putting new gaskets in and closing it, it shouldn't affect anything. Was I wrong? No engine parts are moving so it seems to be fine. Did I miss something?

 

you're right the hose was soft and flexible but has hardened over time, especially at this age. likely you will be fine finding a replacement hose with the same ID size at any automotive store. getting an OEM part would just make things easier as the bends and sizing are perfect and makes replacement quick, however the part will not be cheap (relatively to a generic hose).

as for the EVAP hose (you're right), the green connector is factory and is a service port to pressurize the EVAP system during troubleshoot.

i applaud you for diving in and working on your own vehicle! it took me years of building confidence to crack open an engine and the knowledge gained is priceless - yes there were hard lessons in there too! i hope this hose is your only hard lesson!

 

Turning your own wrenches is a rewarding asset that can save you a ton of money. The learning curve can be arduous and often robs you of massive amounts of time when things go awry...
That said a TB svc might not be the best project to start "learning" so I hope everything is going OK
One of the primary keys to success during a TB svc is organization. This is why I questioned why both the TB and valve covers are both removed. I know it's tempting to dive in and do everything in one fell swoop but too many pieces and parts lying around is asking for trouble. Get in the habit of triaging jobs as you learn. An extreme example, based on your photos, is putting everything back together and now the car doesn't start. If this were to happen you'll have to retrace your steps through 2 jobs to figure out if the issue is coil/valve cover related or a mistake during the TB svc. Granted, a no-start condition after replacing VC gaskets is unlikely but it's just an example to illustrate a point...
Best of luck, if you run into trouble use the forum as a resource

 

You got everything going for you there; Wanting to learn, mechanically inclined, and doing the wrench work yourself. The best thing to do is buy a Service Manual. When I bought my first LS400, and every other car I've owned, I bought the service manual cuz it tells you what needs to come off, and how many nuts and bolts are holding it together. Even though I've been working on cars for many, many years, the manual helped by saving alot of time with every job.
I agree with bradland on being organized. A good sized bench is always good to have. And some ziplock bags to keep the nuts and bolts separated. Don't try to change a timing belt outside in a blizzard with 3 feet of snow all around the car. Ya might lose an important bolt and not find it til spring. Ahh, the good 'ol days.