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P1127 - ETCS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction
I just recapped my ECU per the instructions in the pinned thread. Checked and double checked after I finished. I pulled one pad and a bit of trace, but I soldered a wire in its place and verified connectivity with my multimeter.
I reinstalled the ECU, plugged the battery back in and start it up. It's smooth and fine for about 5 seconds and then CHECK VSC pops up and the engine starts to sound like its timing has gone to ****. Pulled the code and got P1127. The gas pedal no longer works (which makes sense given the failure).
I assume I botched something in the ECU now. Unless there's a possibility that a fuse has gone bad or something. I tried checking the ETCS fuse in the engine bay but couldn't get its over off. I'll try again though.
If anyone has any other ideas or has encountered this, please lemme know.
I just recapped my ECU per the instructions in the pinned thread. Checked and double checked after I finished. I pulled one pad and a bit of trace, but I soldered a wire in its place and verified connectivity with my multimeter.
I reinstalled the ECU, plugged the battery back in and start it up. It's smooth and fine for about 5 seconds and then CHECK VSC pops up and the engine starts to sound like its timing has gone to ****. Pulled the code and got P1127. The gas pedal no longer works (which makes sense given the failure).
I assume I botched something in the ECU now. Unless there's a possibility that a fuse has gone bad or something. I tried checking the ETCS fuse in the engine bay but couldn't get its over off. I'll try again though.
If anyone has any other ideas or has encountered this, please lemme know.
Would be worth engaging an electronics technician to check circuit traces for continuity around the work areas.
Your words, "It's smooth and fine for about 5 seconds and then CHECK VSC pops up and the engine starts to sound like its timing has gone to ****. Pulled the code and got P1127. The gas pedal no longer works" remind me of the power supply circuit failed quickly after started. Did you mount capacitors correctly? Are there any reversed ones? I also worry about harnesses are partially damaged.
A Lexus wiring diagram should help determine which ECU pins trace to related circuit components.
Multilayer circuit boards add complexity when a pad lifts...
I checked continuity on every pin that I soldered and they passed. Even the pad that I accidentally lifted checked out, at least on the surface that had its primary trace. Putting it against a backlight I can't see any other traces in the middle layer and there's nothing on the component side.
I would love to find a wiring diagram for the ECM but I haven't come across one. Do you know where I could find one?
Originally Posted by Yamae
Your words, "It's smooth and fine for about 5 seconds and then CHECK VSC pops up and the engine starts to sound like its timing has gone to ****. Pulled the code and got P1127. The gas pedal no longer works" remind me of the power supply circuit failed quickly after started. Did you mount capacitors correctly? Are there any reversed ones? I also worry about harnesses are partially damaged.
All of the capacitors were polarized properly. The one whose pad was lifted is the 47uF Bipolar.
What I mean about "it's smooth and then CHECK VSC lights up" - It's almost as if the electronic throttle is locked out for a few seconds on startup. Then it seems like it engages but errors out and sounds bad. The gas pedal doesn't work even during that first 5 seconds.
Can you identify the ECU's connector A? And can you identify pin#7 and #8?
Check the resistance between pin#7 and #8 of connector A (A コネクター, located at the left edge) both at the harness side and ECU's pin side. I'll give you an additional idea after you report back.
Completely 0.0 ohm?
There should be some resistance. Could you measure it again a bit more precisely reading at least 2 digits like 0.8 ohm?
The method is to remove the connector and measure the resistance both at the male and female side when the power is not applied.
Thanks for measuring again. The value 1.63 ohms means that the throttle motor is connected and the winding seems fine.
But the ECU side "OL" is strange. There should be at least some resistance since there is a winding sensing circuit connected. I worry that the line is open and not connected to the sensing circuit and the drive circuit. When you did the capacitors replacement job, you must have damaged something related to the throttle motor driving circuit. I'll check lines on the board connected pin#7 and #8 carefully.
Thank you very much! I couldn't even find one of these to buy while googling last night. The connectors are labeled differently from Yamae's post, which is odd, but I see they are still the same pins.
Is there a circuit diagram in the book for the ECM?
I don't have any issue with someone checking my work, but I don't know who that is. Would I take it to Lexus?
On the plus side, the diagrams you uploaded, YODAONE have let me check that there's some resistance across the other two pins that control the throttle clutch.
Last edited by Einzelherz; Jan 17, 2021 at 05:35 AM.
And to Yamae's post. I just realized that 0L means Over Limit. After cleaning up some of the flux and mess I'm now getting 190-200 M ohms sometimes, 170 M ohms other times and 140 M ohms other times. I suspect that's not good.
Last edited by Einzelherz; Jan 17, 2021 at 07:05 AM.