I have searched and found some threads that are similar but I have not found anything that addresses my exact circumstances. Therefore, I would like to ask for your help with the following situation:
I have a 1997 LS400 Base Model with about 132,000 miles on it. Recently I have been having trouble getting the ignition key out of the ignition when I am finished driving and am ready to get out of the car. I was initially restarting the car to allow me to turn the steering wheel to a different position, which seemed to allow me to remove the key. However, I have since realized that it is not the turning of the steering wheel that allowed me to remove the key. Instead it seems to be turning the car off and then turning it back on again that allows me to remove it. I have now realized that I don't even have to restart the car, I can simply turn the key just enough to bump the starter and then the key comes right out. If I start the car and do not take it out of park, I can turn it off and take the key out with no problem. However, once I take it out of park and then put it back in park I have to turn the key to the off position and then restart the car or just bump the starter before I can take the key out. Turning the wheel does not affect it, neither pushing the shifter leaver further into the park position or moving it around seems to make any difference, just restarting it and turning it back off or turning the key enough to bump the starter is all that makes a difference. Any ideas what could be causing this problem or what I could do to fix it?

 

Also, I have two original factory keys. One I use all the time and one I hardly ever use. I see the same problem and the same results with both keys.

 

There is a solenoid called key interlock it prevents removing the key when driving, a safety measure so you don't lose steering control. See this diagram
https://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/...er/5?pnn=85432

I'm guessing there are several inputs used to determined when the solenoid releases and allows the key to be removed, need a wiring diagram for further info. If someone has one post it.

 

Well, I finally resolved my key issues. As it turns out the wiring harness for my alternator was bad from rubbing up against the frame. It was shorting out and in turn ruined my alternator. I found a mechanic who tranced down the wiring harness issues, cut one out from a pick and pull, replaced mine and replaced the alternator. How the key comes out with no problem every time. I was also having problems with my tachometer not always working, Fixing the wiring harness and replacing the alternator also resolved the tach issue as well. I thought I would post this follow up incase someone was having similar problems with their key.

 

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for posting an update. I still don't understand how the alternator wiring harness effects the key in the ignition. Maybe someone with more knowledge can explain so we all know.

 

glad you sorted it out!

wiring is a tricky thing and can cause havoc on other systems. just look at the ECU capacitors thread and all the various problems that causes that all seem unrelated:

● problems in getting into diagnostic mode or scanner says "no communication"
● random dropping into "limp home" mode
● weird shifting problems
● OBD port is unresponsive, seems dead
● throwing random fault codes
● engine won't rev out/rev limits at 2000 or less rpm
● engine runs like crap, then suddenly runs fine again
● random not starting or cutting out
● low idle or erratic idle
● often very hard to start, requires starting fluid
● transmission will not automatically shift, only manual shift is possible
● transmission jerks from 1st to 2nd gear, and kinda slips from 2nd to 3rd
● no A/C compressor operation
● idle speed rolling up and down, or sometimes too low and sometimes too high
● speedometer not working reliably
● speed (cruise) control not working
● tachometer not working sometimes
● air bag light flickering intermittently
● A/C going into reset with flashing front defog light (front defog light typically flashing 10 times)
● check engine light on sometimes, but no codes stored, often in concert with ECT light
● ECU not communicating with scanners or not displaying codes with jumper installed
● bad sulfur exhaust smell in concert with not running right above

 

Good explanation. Here's why I never got into electronics, I like things simple. But things that I think are simple, someone else probably wouldn't understand. That's why everyone is important in this world and deserves to be recognized and complimented for their knowledge.