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Update: the car did indeed jump time, but it looks like only on one bank?? I wish the 1uz was as foolproof to identify the timing marks on the cams as the 2uz/3uz is — this engine is kind of ambiguous by comparison if you don’t know what to look for.
The good news: power steering pump definitely has no leaks and neither do the cam seals. Bad news: why the hell does this car like to jump time? Also, it’s not as clean as it appeared once I started diving in, but what do you expect for a nearly 30 year old car I guess..
I have yet to remove tensioner still (this is suspect #1 now that I see no evidence of coolant or oil leaks) but even one jumped time is too many. And two times?!.weird. Here’s some pics:
Yea that tensioner pulley does not look good. Even though it's spinning now, it could have seized. With all those belt marks on it, more then once. Does the bearing make any noise when you spin it?
Come to think of it, (now I'm remembering) when my 93 T-belt jumped the 2 times, it could have been because of the tensioner pulley. The first kit I got was for preventive maintenance when I bought the car. Everyone here was saying "You need to change the T-belt before it breaks and you need to buy this kit from Rockauto". It was at 110K on original belt. I should have left it alone. And then, about 3K miles later when it jumped the first time all I changed was the belt itself, none of the pulleys. I figured no sense cuz they only had a few thousand miles. I was thinking it slipped cuz of oil from the cam seal leaking. (wasn't leaking when I did the 1st job) Then when it jumped again, (maybe 5K miles) the tensioner pulley was making a little noise so I said "screw it" and bought everything new from Autozone. I figured it can't be worse then what I had and I didn't have time to wait for shipping anyway, I needed the car that day. I had NO problem for 50K miles before I got rid of the car. I was originally thinking it jumped cuz of oil or coolant on the belt, but now I'm thinking it was probably a bad tensioner pulley all along from the first kit I bought.
Yea that tensioner pulley does not look good. Even though it's spinning now, it could have seized. With all those belt marks on it, more then once. Does the bearing make any noise when you spin it?
Come to think of it, (now I'm remembering) when my 93 T-belt jumped the 2 times, it could have been because of the tensioner pulley. The first kit I got was for preventive maintenance when I bought the car. Everyone here was saying "You need to change the T-belt before it breaks and you need to buy this kit from Rockauto". It was at 110K on original belt. I should have left it alone. And then, about 3K miles later when it jumped the first time all I changed was the belt itself, none of the pulleys. I figured no sense cuz they only had a few thousand miles. I was thinking it slipped cuz of oil from the cam seal leaking. (wasn't leaking when I did the 1st job) Then when it jumped again, (maybe 5K miles) the tensioner pulley was making a little noise so I said "screw it" and bought everything new from Autozone. I figured it can't be worse then what I had and I didn't have time to wait for shipping anyway, I needed the car that day. I had NO problem for 50K miles before I got rid of the car. I was originally thinking it jumped cuz of oil or coolant on the belt, but now I'm thinking it was probably a bad tensioner pulley all along from the first kit I bought.
When it jumped timing was it off like mine? Even though my timing is definitely off I’d still think it would at least run, albeit horribly.
When it jumped timing was it off like mine? Even though my timing is definitely off I’d still think it would at least run, albeit horribly.
Yes, exactly like yours, one tooth off on the right cam. Both times with mine it ran like crap at first. I had to ease into the throttle (it just kicked and screamed) just to make it close to home. Eventually it wouldn't even start.
Yes, exactly like yours, one tooth off on the right cam. Both times with mine it ran like crap at first. I had to ease into the throttle (it just kicked and screamed) just to make it close to home. Eventually it wouldn't even start.
Well, installed new timing belt, made sure marks aligned after many turns of the crankshaft and still no start. Insanely frustrating to spend all that time doing a timing belt job, put the car back together, and not have it start when you turn the key.
Well, installed new timing belt, made sure marks aligned after many turns of the crankshaft and still no start. Insanely frustrating to spend all that time doing a timing belt job, put the car back together, and not have it start when you turn the key.
Back to the drawing board.
Wow. That really blows. Is it throwing any codes? Is it getting spark and fuel? Just thinking about the coils and fuel pump.
Just a thought, some people have put a rotor on 180* off but it usually starts and runs like crap. Not sure what it would do if they were both off 180*. I doubt you would have done that, it's usually less experienced people.
Just to be sure you aren't making the same mistake I did - check timing marks in THREE places. Both cams and the crankshaft.
At the very least I can say that I am 100% confident in my timing belt job. All three timing marks were aligned after 4 complete crankshaft revolutions. Triple checked that.
Originally Posted by deanshark
Wow. That really blows. Is it throwing any codes? Is it getting spark and fuel? Just thinking about the coils and fuel pump.
Just a thought, some people have put a rotor on 180* off but it usually starts and runs like crap. Not sure what it would do if they were both off 180*. I doubt you would have done that, it's usually less experienced people.
I gave up last night after 11 pm so I didn’t even get to check spark and fuel. And that’s actually a great question about the distributors. I almost got them 180 off since this is my first distributor equipped UZ I’ve ever rebuilt. Then after some head scratching I realized they can really only go on one way since they have those alignment grooves.
And that’s actually a great question about the distributors. I almost got them 180 off since this is my first distributor equipped UZ I’ve ever rebuilt. Then after some head scratching I realized they can really only go on one way since they have those alignment grooves.
After all these years I've been here, you're the first one (besides me of course) that I've heard point out those grooves. I never understood how people put them backwards. But, everyone makes a mistake once in a while, especially if you're rushing through a job the first time.
The fuel pump and fuel pump relay are known to go bad on the LS. Not for me personally though. Also the coils are known to go bad, especially the drivers side cuz it's down in the heat more. I don't remember ever hearing that both go out at the same time.
Unscrewed the drivers side fuel dampener and tried starting the car. Fuel shot of it so I know for a fact I have plenty of fuel pressure at the engine’s fuel rail.
Update: neither coil produces spark when the engine is cranked.
Now what? Probably ECM, based on all the posts I have read.
It could be. I haven"t had either one of mine fixed. I would offer my extra one for you to try cuz we're close, (I'm in New Britain) but it's out of my 94 which I'm pretty sure it's different.
Crankshaft sensor maybe? Just thinking, that's something easy to check. I don't know the specs off hand.
06-09-19, 03:29 PM
And then, about 3K miles later when it jumped the first time all I changed was the belt itself, none of the pulleys. I figured no sense cuz they only had a few thousand miles. I was thinking it slipped cuz of oil from the cam seal leaking. (wasn't leaking when I did the 1st job) Then when it jumped again, (maybe 5K miles) the tensioner pulley was making a little noise so I said "screw it" and bought everything new from Autozone. I figured it can't be worse then what I had and I didn't have time to wait for shipping anyway, I needed the car that day. I had NO problem for 50K miles before I got rid of the car. I was originally thinking it jumped cuz of oil or coolant on the belt, but now I'm thinking it was probably a bad tensioner pulley all along from the first kit I bought.
Is it throwing any codes? Is it getting spark and fuel? Just thinking about the coils and fuel pump.
I never understood how people put them backwards. But, everyone makes a mistake once in a while, especially if you're rushing through a job the first time.