How hard is it to remove AT fluid pan on 1st gen?
 

I overtorqued the AT fluid drain plug and no matter how hard I try, that thing is not coming out any more. It keeps spinning and possibly leaking just a little. I read some horror stories about how hard it is to remove that pan on 2nd gen LS, and would rather not spend an entire day on it if I don't have to. In addition, I remember that the guy who did it last time overtorqued the 19 10mm bolts that hold it in place. Am I going to have issues because of that? I guess I should get new bolts just to be safe.
Anyways, considering I don't have a lift, only stands, how hard will it be to remove that thing, including disconnecting and reconnecting the fill tube? Anyone done it already? Any pointers?

It is not easy, and in my opinion (because I've done it) you def need a hoist. Part of the filler/dipstick tube is integral with the pan, and you just need some room to get it out. Believe me: If you try and do this without, you'll wish you'd never started it.

Also, you need to be working in clean conditions without the risk of dust blowing about.

Don't even think of starting this job without a full day to spare, or on a holiday when places are shut, or without a backup vehicle in case you need to go and get stuff in a hurry.

There's also the formed in place gasket (FIPG) issue to consider. That is what Lexus used instead of cork or rubber gaskets. Did he use FIPG? This link has info on that: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ssion-pan.html

I bought a 3rd-party filter and cork gasket as a set from Jaggraveyard, and sealed both sides with a trace of red Hermetite. Mind you, this was 14 years ago so I don't know what's available now. But it never leaked! You will of course need to carefully shave off the original FIPG.

Are you going to do a full flush? If so, you need 10 litres of Type-IV. It's expensive, and your Toyota dealer may not have it in stock, and he also may try to convince you that it's not necessary.

Only use Type-IV fluid. Amazon has it by the case $76.95.

If you don't change the strainer, another idea to change ATF will be to use these type of vacuum pumps. I do use a motor driven one and I can get about 0.5L more ATF compared with the conventional way to remove the drain bolt. The diameter of the gauge pipe is bigger than the one for the engine oil and I can suck the ATF easily and almost completely. I once was able to suck about 3.5L when I tried after my 98 Celsior was sitting 5 days.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...6a27e74044.png

I dropped transmission pan twice on my 1999 LS400, first time after like OP over-tightened the drain bolt and it was spinning and not coming out. I did it with car on four fully extended jack stands. At the time I was working on multiple things and had a lot of things out of the way - exhaust, driveshaft. I was uncomfortable working on my back under the car for sure, but it's doable. A friend helped to install new pan with PIFG applied. Had to go slow and align all bolt holes and dip stick tube.
Second time just a week ago - had to change a shift solenoid. Did it with the car on a lift standing up and used a Fel-Pro fiber gasket this time with smear of PIFG material on the fiber gasket. Exhaust flanges after cats had to be disconnected to remove/install the transmission pan.
If your pan doesn't leak I would try removing the drain bolt and re-tap the treads for a bit bigger bolt. That would save the headache of installing a new pan plus the cost of a new pan.
Some people say try avoiding opening transmission pan (If it doesn't leak) on old Toyota/ Lexus cars unless absolutely necessary, since your PIFG will never be as good as OEM robot applied.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Considering I'd be working too close to the ground (dirt) I think I better take it to a shop for that.
Valex, did you re-use the same pan - the one that was overtorqued? How did you get the plug out? Just bang on it from the other side?

I got a new pan ( $165 a few years ago) don't remember if I got a new drain bolt, probably did and new drain bolt washer ( those are not to be reused, buy a bunch for every partial drain/refill).
I did reuse the pan just recently when changing the solenoid, just clean it thoroughly as well as the transmission mating surface.

thanks valex!