LowNslow92

LowNslow92

LowNslow92

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, that there have been no responses. The selector in the 90-94 is a straight pattern. The shifters in the 95+ have a different linkage system for this gated type layout. Off hand I don't know if it is possible without being able to fabricate linkage to follow the pattern. I don't recall anybody attempting this type of change here. Keep us posted on what it takes to adapt this.

Moarpower

Just think outside the box. There are no adapters. I just dismantled mine and cut it down. Joined the wires on the overdrive so it's on always and.made a sleeve to fit over the shaft that would allow it to be tightened. Mine is the same shape as yours.

Moarpower

Another thing you can do is buy a handbrake cover/handle they have a button on the top and you can slide them over the shifter shaft.

Moarpower

Hang on, are you just converting to a 95 or are you using an aftermarket .. If you are going to a 95, why? Just leave it stock.

spuds

Why dont you just put whats called for on it and call it a day? You need this for school and a custom ****/custom shifter modification has become an issue? I dont get it.

Go to the junk yard,pull the parts its designed for if you dont have them,make it stock and go to school. Thats the fix.

driftsucky

Old thread, I know. But the simple answer is yes. You can put a 95-97 gated shifter in a UCF10. It's a lot of work to do. You'll need a Phillips head screw driver, an 8mm and a 10mm socket. You have to take off the wooden cover. Then, remove the center console armrest(entire unit). You'll find the screws for that at the bottom, underneath a thin piece of cloth. Once you remove those screws, and the console is able to move, you'll have to disconnect the rear cig lighter plug. That will give you access to a few metal screws at the back of the unit. There's 4 of those, and now your armrest is out. After that, you'll see your hvac duct that runs the length of the tranny tunnel, and there are 4 (IIRC) screws that are connected to an archway, of sorts, at the back of it, that need to be removed. 2 up top and 2 on the side. You may have to move the seats in order to do that, but it's easy peasy. Now, you should have access to your shifter. there are 4 screws that connect it to the car. It should be noted, that at all times, be careful as some of these screws were never meant to be removed and they may be held with locktite. They also may break. Aaaaaanywho, once you remove those 4 screws, you can now go about removing it from the car. You'll have to get under the car as it's connected to your cable under the car in the actual transmission tunnel. Again, be careful cuz if you break any of this stuff, game over man. Game over. You should also have two plugs at the front of the unit that will need to be unplugged. Once you have that out, you are now done with the manual part of the REMOVAL.

If you're still reading this, now you get to tackle the electrical wiring. You'll have to use wires from both units. You'll basically have to de-pin the plug from your old unit and re-pin it with the shift wires from your new unit. They're colors match up for the most part, so it's not TOO bad. I mean, it's bad, but doable. Your ECT PWR is plug-n-play and overdrive is kinda up to your discretion. There's no where to actually put it, as 95+ don't have overdrive. But, if you're savvy, you can find somewhere to stick it and utilize it as needed. There's a few tabs you'll have to cut off of the gated shifter unit to make it fit...and by fit, I mean attach and bolt down. If you want everything to be flush, you gotta do some fabrication work on the unit or in your car.

Lastly, re-attach everything. And viola. Now you get to use a cool shift **** of your choosing.

duballstar

Guys,

I’ve been doing a lot of reading about upgrading my 91’ shifter assembly to the 95-97 gated version. I understand the wiring/mounting fabrication/etc, but I can’t find a direct answer regarding the required linkage. Some say that the entire 95-97 shifter assembly (including the linkage) is required, while others comment that you can use the 90-94 linkage and just modify the 95-97 lower lever (that connects to the linkage) to fit.

Once I take everything apart I’ll discover an answer to my question, but I’d like to know ahead of time if I need to source the 95-97 linkage. I’m sure it will “fit better” and require less modifications with the 95-97 linkage mated to the gated shifter assembly, but I’d prefer to keep my existing 90-94 linkage and modify the 95-97 lever to fit and function properly, if possible.

Thank you in advance for your help and let me know if you have any questions.

driftsucky

You either need the entire linkage or you need a to be able to cut and re-weld metal. However, if you can do the latter, the shifter swap isn't really needed.

duballstar

I appreciate the prompt response. I assume the location of the lower lever that connects to the linkage is different (90-94 vs. 95-97), which is why the swap requires the linkage. So I could buy a 95-97 linkage or modify my 90-94 linkage bar to locate the mounting point to the appropriate new location of the 95-97 shifter lever. But at the end of the day, the part of the linkage that mounts to the transmission and selects the gear is the same, correct?

The transmissions both have the same shift pattern (straight line), from the perspective of the transmission. Or does the gated version use the horizontal movement of the gates to locate the gear in the trans?

Most older automatic cars shift in a straight line (from the perspective of the transmission), unlike manual transmissions where the horizontal movement effects the gear that you are shifting to.

Hope this makes sense.

duballstar

I apologize in advance for the double post, but I had one final question...

Did Lexus upgrade the metal shifter linkage to a cable style version for the 98-00 cars? I found some conflicting information regarding the linkage style for the 98-00 version. It doesn’t matter for my project, but I’m just curious.

driftsucky

So, the shift pattern is more or less straight for both of the shifters. The actual shifter cable connects to the bottom of the shifter linkage (you can access it under the vehicle as it isn't flexible enough to pull up through the opening in the tranny tunnel). However, the issue is that it's all one unit. That's why you need the entire unit. The actual linkage is just a small pin. It's the easiest part of the entire swap.

driftsucky

I'm not sure about the 98's. I know that the pattern is different and there are extra gears. The wiring is more or less the issue of concern though. I've seen the linkage/unit for 91-98 and the part that connects to the tranny cable looks the exact same for all of those years. I'm sure the concern is the wiring portion.