Can't Seem to Fix Low Idle!!! *rolls eyes*
#47
Moderator
I believe he is referring to cleaning the air mix path with carbon cleaner, because it's essentially connected to the vacuum part of the injectors. Injectors wouldn't need to be removed unless they're really bad.
I don't think your 97 has an air mix path, but your 00 definitely does
I don't think your 97 has an air mix path, but your 00 definitely does
The following users liked this post:
Scraape (03-22-18)
#48
Driver School Candidate
Vacuum leak
Hello Yamae
Thank you for your support.
Today the weather was good, so I went to clean the air paths. I cleaned them with air and crab cleaner. And now I have a bigger problem
there is a leak that I can hear in the left side when you face the car. I tried to locate it, but it was difficult. I sprayed some break cleaner, Maybe the intake or maybe there is a vacuum hose or something under the injectors line.
After driving I got engine light on
I connect my scanner and I got P0130, P0133, P0150, P0153 codes
I did a little search and found out it is intake leak or vacuum leak.
I cleared the codes for now and I will check tomorrow for the leak.
One question, is It easy to replace the upper intake gasket?
Thank you.
Last edited by Johnnyy; 03-22-18 at 07:16 PM.
#49
Driver School Candidate
Hello Yamae
Thank you for your support.
Today the weather was good, so I went to clean the air paths. I cleaned them with air and crab cleaner. And now I have a bigger problem
there is a leak that I can hear in the left side when you face the car. I tried to locate it, but it was difficult. I sprayed some break cleaner, Maybe the intake or maybe there is a vacuum hose or something under the injectors line.
After driving I got engine light on
I connect my scanner and I got P0130, P0133, P0150, P0153 codes
I did a little search and found out it is intake leak or vacuum leak.
I cleared the codes for now and I will check tomorrow for the leak.
One question, is It easy to replace the upper intake gasket?
Thank you.
The leak is from lower intake gasket. I have to replace the starter anyway.
I will order lower, upper intake gaskets, Starter, and injectors seals.
is there anything I should do while doing this repair?
Thanks
#50
Update:
So I got my car back after having the throttle body replaced, and I still had the low idle. I messed around with the throttle position sensor again, this time I kept the engine running. In park with the engine on I brought it up to 950 and tightened the screws. In drive it now sits at 650+-, way better than 400 were it was prior. So far it has been steady with stop and go bay area traffic. Maybe give that a try for the people still having issues?
So I got my car back after having the throttle body replaced, and I still had the low idle. I messed around with the throttle position sensor again, this time I kept the engine running. In park with the engine on I brought it up to 950 and tightened the screws. In drive it now sits at 650+-, way better than 400 were it was prior. So far it has been steady with stop and go bay area traffic. Maybe give that a try for the people still having issues?
#51
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Update
Hi everyone,
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
#52
Lexus Champion
Hi everyone,
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The idle was smoother and at a slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
#53
Lexus Champion
Hi everyone,
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
Apologies for the slow response.
I haven’t been able to pursue this matter further as I have been far too busy with work and school.
At this point I’m almost 100% sure it’s the ECU that’s causing the problem. Also, in the next couple of weeks in Southern California, air conditioning will become more of a normal occurrence so the issue will be somewhat less prevalent.
Thank you Puredrifter for the ECU repair recommendations. That will be my next approach when time permits.
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's...OEM parts.
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The resulting dle was noticeably smoother with slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
#54
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
My 1999 LS400 had one bout with extremely low idle to the point of stalling...it happened only once but once was too much so waited a few months for a reoccurence.
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's...OEM parts.
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The resulting dle was noticeably smoother with slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's...OEM parts.
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The resulting dle was noticeably smoother with slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
Yes, VVT parts can easily cause idle problems on any model of car when worn or faulty. My car is a 1996 however and therefore does not have a VVT equipped engine.
#55
My 1999 LS400 had one bout with extremely low idle to the point of stalling...it happened only once but once was too much so waited a few months for a reoccurence.
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's...OEM parts.
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The resulting dle was noticeably smoother with slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
Today I replaced both VVTi solenoids or Oil Control Valves (OCV).
I did so without disconnecting negative battery cable to avoid ECU reset therby only one variable...new OCV's...OEM parts.
Changed when engine was warm to better compare results.
The resulting dle was noticeably smoother with slightly higher RPM in park.
The OCV is an electromechanical devices with a pintle that wears in it's bore with a return spring that has probably grown tired after 20 years.
On information the new OCV is better designed yet "Made in Mexico" does not inspire the same confidence as "Made in Japan"
#57
Lexus Champion
They fail.~ 200k so with the low idle question determined to replace both.
Have read the new OCV's are improved...perhaps someone can elaborate on whether or how so.
#58
Driver School Candidate
I have replaced upper & lower intake gaskets, throttle body gasket, cleaned the intake really well, in the past I had some oil leak from pcv, but after cleaning the intake and the path ( which was clogged) for the pcv hose , no more leak. I cleaned fuel injectors and all of them are working fine. I replaced the starter too. However, rpm is still 400 in drive mode when the car fully warmed. I don’t know what I should do more for this issue.
#59
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
update
I have replaced upper & lower intake gaskets, throttle body gasket, cleaned the intake really well, in the past I had some oil leak from pcv, but after cleaning the intake and the path ( which was clogged) for the pcv hose , no more leak. I cleaned fuel injectors and all of them are working fine. I replaced the starter too. However, rpm is still 400 in drive mode when the car fully warmed. I don’t know what I should do more for this issue.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=24
#60
Driver School Candidate
What's the RPM in neutral/park. 400 in drive can be just fine. There's no factory idle RPM designated for when the car is in gear.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=24
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=24
700 in park & Neutral . I noticed that the fuel line ( in attached picture) is shaking after car warmed up. I don’t know if this is normal.