dataDave

Hi,

I still have a power steering fluid leak in my car. I have been unable to fix it even while replacing my alternator because I don't have welder or saw to utilize the original IAC. Is the power steering fluid leak being burned in my engine? My exhaust gases smell extremely potent of gasoline and/or oil (I am not too sure of what burning oil out the exhaust smells like). Can you offer me some advice so I can think about the repair?

Also, if any of you have any advice on how to plug the IAC valve without buying an incorrectly threaded oil plug bolt, please do share. Thanks in advance.

dataDave

I meant Air Control Valve.

Since the procedure is to plug the vacuum ports on the top of the engine, can I plug the vacuum plugs on the solenoid and fix the problem?

bradland

Yes fluid is going through your vacuum lines into the intake where it is being burned off. White smoke at start up is a strong indicator. I would guess at least 90% of all LS400's still on the road suffer from this issue to some degree.

You only plug the vacuum lines up top AFTER the leak is fixed.

Legender

Incorrectly sized bolt? Really?
Take your IAC valve out and take it to the hardware store (not big box) and get a matching bolt.

I didn't find my oil plug bolt incorrectly sized...

dataDave

I see.. thank you for the advice. I just did not want to have my car inoperating for a long time, but I will have to find the right day in the weekend to get this settled.
I've read a lot on this topic and it seems like a fair amount of people buy the correct size and supposedly correct thread pattern, but still the bolt gets stuck only half way up because of incorrect thread pattern.

dataDave

Legender gave good advice on how to fix this. What method have you or would you use to fix this power steering fluid leak?

bradland

Legender confirmed what I said during your original post a couple weeks ago. Don't rely on the thread size as a be all end all. Take the ACV out and to the hardware store with you. Find a nut that will thread ALL the way through the threads of the valve.Then find the corresponding bolt and you're good. Some may consider this overkill but I learned the hard way an oil plug labeled 14X1.5 doesn't guarantee a fit. Maybe I should have known better than to shop at Autozone !!!

This was a trial and error fix for me. The first attempt was not successful. I finally ended up buying a new pump and a new bolt which gave me completely dry threads and a pump on the work bench instead of upside down under the car. I also used Permatex hydraulic thread sealer. This may not be the solution you want to hear bit it gave me confidence that any new fluid appearing on the pump I would know exactly where it was coming from. It has been bone dry for over a year now...

Amskeptic

Since it is a simple "air switch", all you need to do is plug the vacuum lines *leading to and from* the idle-up valve, and put a loop between the two nipples on the valve itself. Problem dealt with . . .
Colin

bradland

Fluid will still leak past the rubber O-ring inside the valve and when your loop becomes full of fluid you are right back where you started.

Amskeptic

Well #&!!$*@! it seemed like an elegant and simple solution. A loop with 1/4" clamps couldn't keep it contained?

The real solution would be to rebuild the pump with a nice new o-ring. I rebuilt my p/s pump in 2010 with a Sewell Lexus kit that cost $89.00 and it has been perfect and fully functional ever since.

bradland

Yes re building the pump itself is always a good idea since the aftermarket pumps are notoriously terrible. The o-ring in question here is actually inside the ACV.
When the pump is under load from low speed turning the fluid presses against the valve which opens the pathway for air to circulate into the intake. Over time the o-ring that keeps the fluid inside the pump wears out allowing it to pass through the valve. Also the vacuum lines are secured to the 2 valve ports by EXTREMELY small spring clips. As the o-ring slowly allows more fluid through the valve the vacuum lines can even be pushed completely off the valve nipples!
There is a thread floating around showing how to rebuild the ACV but I don't see much positive feedback or results.

Banshee365

Why bother rebuilding the ACV or something like that when the damn valve is $45 free shipping brand new. Just replace it and be done with it. Easy.

Amskeptic

Link?
ColinTimeToBuildTheStash

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it is PS high pressure on the pump-side of the leak. The hoses and clamps will contain that only until they fill up with PS fluid (DEXRON ATF), then the high pressure fluid will just come on through that.

When I first got my '91 about 10 years ago, one of the first things I did was to replace that valve (BTW, it is sometimes called the "idle up air valve", not to be confused at all with the "idle air control valve", which is completely different) with a new one. Knowing what I know now, I would look into just replacing the o-rings. I believe dicer on here found that solution. A search on this site should find it.

Here's the part number for the valve. The googletube should find options to buy it: 17630-16040

I also rebuilt my pump a few years after the valve replacement. Here's the part number I used there: 04446-30173, also I replaced the bearing in there: 90363-17017

Amskeptic

( Totally reasonable prices too ! )
And do you not love how the engine seamlessly maintains the idle at full steering lock, even when the A/C compressor kicks in during a parking maneuver?
Colin