johnny5ive

I bought a non-running 1993 LS400 from a local "dealer".... Didn't get much reliable info on the car from the guy, seemed kind of shady, he said it drove here (Arkansas) from Houston and then the next time he tried to start it, it wouldn't start. Registration sticker on the windshield is from 2008, oil change sticker on inside of windshield is also from 2008. No battery. I hooked jumper cables to my F350 7.3 diesel (2 battery) and turned on the key. Oil light, SRS light, battery light and Check engine light come on. Gauge needles flicker but gauges do not light up, odometer does not light up. Motor spins over... I'm not actually expecting this thing to start and run, but I want to make sure the motor isn't locked up before I waste my time. I'm sure the fuel tank looks and smells like hell and has a locked up fuel pump, but I want to address things in a logical order. Oil looks good and smells good. I jumped the connectors in both diagnostic ports and did not get a flash from the check engine light. This seems odd to me. Advice on how to proceed?

johnny5ive

I threw a battery in it and it has spark. Check engine light still not flashing codes... I pulled the trunk trim and can see 10 year old gas has been leaking out of the sending unit mount. I'm wondering if the thing just doesn't have a bad fuel pump... Still curious why the check engine light won't flash.

Moarpower

MIne didnt send a code when the fuel pump was blown.

johnny5ive

I wouldn't expect it to throw a code for a bad fuel pump, but shouldn't the check engine light flash something when you bridge the 2 pins in the diagnostic port? I would imagine that after sitting with no battery for years there are no codes stored, but from my experience a car should do something when you jump the pins in the diagnostic port even if there are no fault codes.

Moarpower

Its hard to say. It should flash if there are no codes. But mine didnt do that either when I was diagnosing. The first thing I would do is manually inspect the ecu caps. Its not that hard to get to. ALso, try bridging the FP in the engine bay diagnostic port and see if the pump is priming fuel.

johnny5ive

I have no doubt that the fuel pump is junk. I can tell by the smell of the gas that the pump is toast. That's not even my concern, I just thought that the check engine light should flash, that's all. Maybe this car doesn't do anything unless there are codes stored? I thought this would be a simple question very easy to answer on a Lexus forum. Does the check engine light flash when you bridge the diagnostic port, yes or no?

Moarpower

"I bought a non-running 1993 LS400 from a local "dealer".... Didn't get much reliable info on the car from the guy, seemed kind of shady, he said it drove here (Arkansas) from Houston and then the next time he tried to start it, it wouldn't start. Registration sticker on the windshield is from 2008, oil change sticker on inside of windshield is also from 2008. No battery. I hooked jumper cables to my F350 7.3 diesel (2 battery) and turned on the key. Oil light, SRS light, battery light and Check engine light come on. Gauge needles flicker but gauges do not light up, odometer does not light up. Motor spins over... I'm not actually expecting this thing to start and run, but I want to make sure the motor isn't locked up before I waste my time. I'm sure the fuel tank looks and smells like hell and has a locked up fuel pump, but I want to address things in a logical order. Oil looks good and smells good. I jumped the connectors in both diagnostic ports and did not get a flash from the check engine light. This seems odd to me. Advice on how to proceed?"

"I threw a battery in it and it has spark. Check engine light still not flashing codes... I pulled the trunk trim and can see 10 year old gas has been leaking out of the sending unit mount. I'm wondering if the thing just doesn't have a bad fuel pump... Still curious why the check engine light won't flash."

These are you posts. If you want a simple yes or no answer, dont waste peoples time by posting a 2 paragraph question mate.

If you read my reply I said, YES, they are supposed to, however, mine did not, until the car was running for a while. You are dealing with 20+ year old ECU technologoy. Like I said, check the ECU. Although you are going to have hard time telling if the bad ecu is your only issue if you cant get the car to start.

Moarpower

Also, its important to know that the diagnostic mode requires the car to be in a specific state to be able to correctly enter this mode to begin with. Variables INCLUDE battery voltage. If your car is not set right, it wont enter the diagnostic state correctly. Only jump the ports on the diag port IN THE CAR. These cars are not simple so you wont get a yes or no answer, but if thats what you prefer......

YES, good luck.

johnny5ive

What a clown show

Moarpower

Perhaps you don't understand how forums work. You see, if you wanted to know the answer to the following "Does the check engine light flash when you bridge the diagnostic port, yes or no?", you should type that as your OP. Instead you got that answer, and some other points that may or may not prove useful in your diagnosis. If you can't handle that, you may be looking in the wrong place.

I understand tho, I'd be in a bad mood too if I purchased a non running vehicle and had no idea of how to proceed..What a clown show.

johnny5ive

I'm pretty familiar with how forums work. Most of the time you get a bunch of guys who have desk jobs (mostly IT type stuff) who don't really know much about cars, but they sit around and trade parts schematics of hoses and **** like that. Most of the info to be found is useless because one guy thinks one thing and someone else thinks something else because in acutality nobody really knows their *** from a hole in the ground because the only real experience they have is posting and reading **** posted on forums... They guys on forums get all jacked up talking about wheels and tires, suspensions and turbos but they don't really have a clue how to make a car handle or maximize efficiency... Cold air intakes are the ****, right mate??? I don't know much about this car, no, but I know quite a bit about 1UZ-FE engine and swapping them into **** that does actually go fast and perform. I was a little concerned that the check engine light didn't flash and thought that somebody on a Lexus forum might know if it is a symptom of a bad ECM... Obvioulsy you don't know and either does any of the other desk jockeys on this forum... like I said, clown show.... now if you'll excuse me I've got a motor with spark to get ripped out of this complete hunk of **** that it's bolted into.

Moarpower

With all that experience swapping 1uz's you dont know the answer to that question? How? Better question is why are you worried about the stock ECU (thats what its actually called in the cars) when you will need to standalone the motor anyway to get any real "power" from it. If you just googled it you would have been linked to this forum countless times where some extremely inexperienced, know nothing, forum jockeys have not only answered that question, but countless others related to the ECU including completely refurbishing them, with detailed links as to what caps to buy. Lots of info from people who know nothing.

You have a bad attitude and an easily hurt ego and thats all good, but this is a very useful forum mate. You just need to be able to look and take advice.

Back to my "desk job".

johnny5ive

Yawn.... ::: eye roll::::: yeah I see all sorts of info on pulling codes, replacing capacitors, etc but I don't see where a single person has written anything about how one should act with no codes stored. Sorry you got all butt-hurt, these ECMs sell for about what I paid for this whole car to guys like you so I just want to confirm that it's not got problems before I get rid of it. A wise man once told me "If you don't know what you're talking about, just don't open your mouth".. Maybe you should think about that, since you obviously don't have the answer to the question asked. You could've just passed over this thread like all the other guys who didn't have an answer but instead you (in perfect forum jockey form) stroked out a reply offering nothing but "Maybe this, maybe that but I don't really know"... typical...

Moarpower

I answered your questions and gave you more info. I suggest you read before getting your panties in a twist mate. I told you YES you should get a flash, however its more complicated than that with these ECU's. If the idea of there not being a yes or no answer is frustrating to you I think you may be in the wrong hobby.

"but I don't see where a single person has written anything about how one should act with no codes stored" I thought you were just looking for yes or no ? How do you expect to get help from the useless forum jockies when you can't clarify what you are even looking for? Its also what? Sauturday evening where you are? So Im sure many more will have answers for you once they are done living their lives on a weekend with their families, friends and cars.

Honestly though, you certainly put me in my place. You are a mature, knowledgeable asset to the diy car mod hobby. A true legend among men. I will bow out of this one and leave it to the mods. Im sure you can figure it out without the assistance of this useless forum.

Edit - If you are looking for more than a yes or no answer, which does not even apply to your question you will need to test the ECU to see if its bad. There are too many variables for anyone to be able to tell you unless you run some tests. First try this https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-by-yamae.html, second go and open it up. MAny people blame the ECU too quickly and it pays to actually test it and other possible causes first.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

I'm with you moarpower, this dude needs to get off this "help" forum and just call Japan....