Elless400

Anyone know the part numbers? I can't seem to find them anywhere. I thought I homed in on the right parts, but the hoses arrived and are too short. I order trans cooler inlet and outlet hoses. What in the world are these hoses called?

Yamae

You didn't specify your model year but if it's UCF2#, following drawings might help you.

Banshee365

The rubber hoses are 3/8" hoses. Nothing special. That's assuming you are talking about the rubber hoses.

YODAONE

The OEM hoses are preformed to avoid chafing on undercarriage, are metric and incredibly durable.

The issue of using bulk hose(assuming you can find metric ID) is it is not preformed and possibly stress the radiator fittings....

Also...DO NOT allow a big box auto parts store to advise you on hose...they give you wrong advice and you end up with a transmission rebuild... $$$ (highly unlikely they will pay for it either)

Go to specialty hydraulic hose supplier....even then they may attempt to sell you what is on the shelf.

Replace the compression hose clamps...not recommending screw clamps...use OEM clamps...with OEM hose

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Straight hose is unlikely to cause problems, but be sure it is AT Oil compatible (temperature, pressure, and chemical - it will say something like AT-Oil on it sometimes), and of course close enough to the right diameter. I've always used hose by the foot on my cars (except radiator hoses, due to huge diameter, bends, etc.), never with any problems.

Hose by the foot is both cheaper, and far more convenient to keep on hand for repairs as needed. Of course when installing, you should route and support things to avoid the chafing and stress issues yoda mentioned. I've never found this to not be possible.

Also, I have an in-line ATF filter on the return line there. The filter in the AT is more of a screen, so this augments that, and is easily changeable without dropping the pan. Magnefine 3/8" is what I use.

djamps

They are low pressure lines so really nothing special as long as it's compatible with ATF.

Banshee365

Having removed half a dozen slushboxes from LS400's I can definitively say that the hoses are NOT preformed. They may get a memory from sitting how they sit for 20 years but they are not preformed by any means. I haven't seen the OE hoses new the the wrapper but I imagine they're coiled up and cut to the proper length. The composition of the hoses from Lexus is probably slightly different than bulk hose but practically there will be no difference. I reuse the OE hoses as long as the car I'm working on hasn't had worm drive clamps installed by somebody that squished the end. Even then I can just cut a half inch off and it's clean hose again.

The Toyota hose may be some sort of metric size but I can say, with lots and lots of experience removing and installing these hoses, that 3/8" hose is a perfect fit. It feels like it's made for it. The hose is not preformed and no radiator fittings will be harmed or stressed when using bulk hose. If someone were to insist on going to some hydraulic shop as you mention then just order the hoses from Toyota online and be done with it.

I'm one of the biggest proponents of using OE parts anywhere possible. But, there are places where it just doesn't matter. I even recommend OE wiper blades. But trans cooler hoses? Nah. Sort of like light bulbs. Can you goto the dealer and buy the bulbs? Yes. Can you buy the bulbs at Wal-Mart? Yes. And they will probably both say Sylvania on them.

YODAONE

The bulbs are another story...the OEM supplier was Toshiba...they are expensive but superb quality...

Toyota designed the wedge base bulb sockets with such tight tolerances that in some instances only the Toshiba bulbs fit correctly..

Sold incandescent bulbs so knew who players were

Losiracer2

Actually, having just replaced some 03 Sienna HVAC instrumentation bulbs....they are NOT the same as parts stores. The base will not fit perfectly, neither will the colored caps that Toyota uses due to the parts store bulbs having a more bulbous shape. It also wouldn't fit inside the HVAC bulb socket in some cases.

They were pricey though...they initially wanted $6.50 a bulb but I haggled and got them down to $3.02 a bulb at the dealer. The quality is excellent though...they survived 14 years in an AZ environment in a non garage kept car.

Sorry for getting off topic

Banshee365

Haha, my fault for going off topic. I was just providing an example. But, I was more speaking of exterior illumination bulbs. I would go OE all day for interior illumination.

Elless400

You guys are great. It turned out that my local Toyota dealer stocks them and I was able to grab a set (like 15 bucks).

I just for the first time came back to my thread, as it's been an incredibly busy day.

Sorry I forgot to mention the year. It's a 96 LS400
Banshee, you've taken a few off? How the Hell did you do it? I can't seem pull them off the transmission side. I don't want to damage the metal transmission lines, so how in the world do you get these off??? I put an unbelievable amount of twisting force, I feel like I'm just shy of damaging something.

What's the trick?

djamps

Cut it long ways with a razor blade then peel it off.

Elless400

Sounds like a good possibility. I need to somehow make sure I don't slice the metal tube. The last thing I need is a slow ATF leak. Or a quick one, but you get it.

djamps

Don't dig into the metal... even half way thru the hose is enough to split it with a pair of plyers.

Banshee365

I always just wrap pliers around the hose where the hose clamp rides and wiggle it. Turn it hard it need be. Be sure to wrap the pliers around the hose that is over the metal tube, not an empty hose portion.