Norrov

I was going about 75 MPH and had to slam on the brakes for a deer, car did not die but the engine light came on and the Traction control light started blinking.

It's running really rough at an idle and I can feel it missing at higher speeds too. Currently in the middle of nowhere South Dakota. Any advice would be helpful!

Thanks guys

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

check the codes....

Lowered? May have damaged the main engine harness in the driver side fender well. Too many possible things, need more info.

Norrov

It's completely stock I with 142K on it.

Tired unhooking the battery for 5 mins and the codes went away but it was still running rough, then after 10 mins the engine light and traction light came on again. It still has power but kind of stutters. Seems like it's running really rich. Just replaced the plugs/wires and timing belt a week ago.

After work today I'll look into it a little more.

brybo86

I good place to start MIGHT be to check the CODES

could 100's of things, cam or crank sensor got disconnected?

autozone/advance/oreilly will tell you the codes for free

Norrov

Here's the codes

P0300 Random Misfire detected
661 - large vacuum leak
662 - fuel system concern
663 - ignition system concern
664 - engine mechanical condition

P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire
661 - large vacuum leak
662 - fuel system concern
663 - ignition system concern
664 - engine mechanical condition

P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire
661 - large vacuum leak
662 - fuel system concern
663 - ignition system concern
664 - engine mechanical condition
----

Suggested parts: ignition coil

dicer

The only thing I can think of that hard braking would do is if one of the cats was bad and some of the trash slammed into the O2 senor. Other things can be some sort of debris in the fuel tank, but that would cause more of a high speed problem. It is really strange that a sudden stop would cause those problems.
Since 3 and 4 are on opposite sides ignition coils are at the very bottom of the list of problems.
I would lean towards O2 sensors but have someone check fuel trims and response etc before jumping in on replacements.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The usual going through items:
Vacuum lines at this age are pretty brittle/hard. Check those and replace. Same may be said for the ignition wires, cap rotor if those are also due. If it were one of the ignition coils you would probably be seeing more banks misfiring not just those two opposing cylinders but can't rule it out.

Norrov

Toyota just replaced the plugs/wires and timing belt less than 200 miles ago. I'll look it over, thanks!

aptoslexus

Check the work. Just done repair work and new problems are often related.

dicer

Yes good idea by aptoslexus, you should remove both top covers and check wires in the caps, maybe even remove caps and check. Also I would not rule out some loose component in the ecu that could have been jarred.

YODAONE

Condition of Motor and Transmission mounts?
Have they ever been replaced?
If expired then perhaps the engine shifted.

Verify that engine ground straps, connectors and vacuum lines running between engine and body were not disrupted.

Norrov

Found it. Took the cover off and the timing belt I had Toyota replace last week is shredded. It slapped around and tore the new plug wire in half. I'm in a different state now, but I called them about the doing the work at another dealer where I'm at now. Guess we'll see what they offer.



http://m.imgur.com/bTjwjAy

dicer

And that was not caused by slamming on the brakes. I guess we can see what that nice fast paced flat rate pay does to the quality of work done on peoples cars. So it looks like Toyota has to warrant that work, your just without the car for a while. Its nice Dicer said to remove those covers.

Norrov

Yes sir! Thanks for all suggestions guys.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

If the belt jumped timing the motor's toast, their insurance will be paying out well for this.

But hopefully just a new belt and wires and you're all set.