peterls

My locks are starting to act up a bit. I know I could lubricate them and all, but at the same time, the alarm got out of whack (when I was testing wires for the brake lights)... and my remote lock does not work on one key (never did).

So I am thinking: if I were to find a used LS400 (1st gen) that someone is parting out, and if all those things worked on it (remote lock, alarm etc), what are all the parts that I would need to transplant from that car to mine? I would like to get it to be in OEM condition, so I am guessing:

- All locks (including the engine ignition lock, trunk, both doors)
- Alarm ECU
- Both keys and valet key(s)

Anything else? Are there ECUs in the doors that I need to worry about? And do you think this is tons of work - replacing all the locks? (I've never done it before)

Alternatively, I am thinking of perhaps installing an after-market alarm or just remote lock system. Anyone done that? I already have my current alarm disabled by grounding that green wire on the driver's side, but am wondering how hard it would be to completely disable the factory system and replace it with an after market one...

dicer

The remote key lock transceiver is in the trunk, the alarm ecu is behind the dash. For the remote keys to work they would need the correct transceiver for that key or more likely just an eprom with in it that has the correct code to match the key. But then I suppose if your a dealer there is a way to program the key to the transceiver.
No ecu's in the doors that I know of. If the locks are acting up after market stuff won't fix it.
By alarm acting up you mean it just goes off when ever? And that is why you did the green wire deal? Most always the problem with the alarms going off is the door switch goofing up and making the alarm think the door is being opened. So the ecu may be just fine. And even with an aftermarket alarm that uses the same door switches it may also just go off. If you start doing after market stuff you run the chance of goofing things up nicely. Unless you have all the info that a place like car toys has, even then its a gamble.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

if you're replacing old with old there's 0 guarantee that anything is in better shape than what you have already. Lube the locks with nonconductive silicone-based lube (nothing petroleum based, it attracts dust) ad figure out what is not working in your remote system.

replacing a mass of things will just end up as loads of work to dissapointment.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Trying to understand what the issues are...are the key cylinders themselves not unlocking the door or is it the actuators? What are the symptoms? Could be as simple as a remote swap. Many possibilities.

peterls

Here is a list of things that is acting up:

- Alarm sometimes goes off, in a middle of the night, even when no one is touching the car. This happened only twice in the past year or more, so it is very rare, but my neighbors don't appreciate it at all.

- When I am unlocking the car using the key on the driver's side, sometimes, the alarm goes off, as if I broke into the car. Again, not a regular occurence, but happens. Once it was so bad, that no matter what I did with the car, the alarm would not stop and the car kept locking itself so I could not get in. What saved the day was passenger side door - I unlocked that one using my key and the alarm stopped and everything was back to normal. (that's why I disabled the alarm by grounding that wire)

- When locking-unlocking the car on the driver's side, most of the time it does not lock/unlock all other doors when it should. This has been the case for over a month now, where before it worked just as it should. Then, last night, out of the blue, it worked and when I locked the car with the key, it locked all doors at the same time.

- The remote used to work on my key, but on my wife's - it never worked. Now, for some reason it stopped working all together on my key too. So I have to use key to lock and unlock the car every time.

I think that's about it. I could probably go to a dealer, but I have a feeling this would cost an arm and a leg... anyone knows for sure?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

This is a symptom of the driver door key cylinder electronic switch. Can't say this will 100% fix though it may be one aspect to check.

peterls

What is that - is it like an ECU in the door? Can you point me to a picture or a part number, as I am clueless in these things.

Thanks!

dicer

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