95-97' vs. 98'-00' Catalytic Convertors
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95-97' vs. 98'-00' Catalytic Convertors
My 99' has a bad cat, and I'm going to need to replace it soon... you can smell it along with the code. The car has 300k, and I believe it to be a California car. Looking at prices there seems to be a drastic price difference between the 95'-97', and the 98'-00'. Does anyone know if they are the same dimensions, and if so what are the changes?
Last edited by sanstoette; 03-16-16 at 12:34 PM.
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Thanks for the quick response. With that in mind the only Catalytic convertors for 98'-00' seem to be labeled Non-CA complaint. Were the 98'-00' model 50 state cars, and they just never made a Cali specific car, or are they OEM only?
#4
I'm pretty sure Maine and NY cars also had CA emissions which had a 3rd catalytic converter. Check under the hood near the latch and it'll say CA Emissions or Federal Emissions.
How do you know you have a bad cat? The reason I ask is because my wife's 00 and my 95 were bought super cheap because the previous owners were told they had bad cats due to CEL code (P0420 and P0430) requiring 5k repair bill
Turned out to be an exhaust leak at the flange for both cars. Code hasn't returned in 6+ years in either car. And Mpgs are right where they need to be 18-22 combined
How do you know you have a bad cat? The reason I ask is because my wife's 00 and my 95 were bought super cheap because the previous owners were told they had bad cats due to CEL code (P0420 and P0430) requiring 5k repair bill
Turned out to be an exhaust leak at the flange for both cars. Code hasn't returned in 6+ years in either car. And Mpgs are right where they need to be 18-22 combined
#6
BahHumBug
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I'm pretty sure Maine and NY cars also had CA emissions which had a 3rd catalytic converter. Check under the hood near the latch and it'll say CA Emissions or Federal Emissions.
How do you know you have a bad cat? The reason I ask is because my wife's 00 and my 95 were bought super cheap because the previous owners were told they had bad cats due to CEL code (P0420 and P0430) requiring 5k repair bill
Turned out to be an exhaust leak at the flange for both cars. Code hasn't returned in 6+ years in either car. And Mpgs are right where they need to be 18-22 combined
How do you know you have a bad cat? The reason I ask is because my wife's 00 and my 95 were bought super cheap because the previous owners were told they had bad cats due to CEL code (P0420 and P0430) requiring 5k repair bill
Turned out to be an exhaust leak at the flange for both cars. Code hasn't returned in 6+ years in either car. And Mpgs are right where they need to be 18-22 combined
What codes do you have/had.
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The only code that I'm getting is P0420, but it only pops up sporadically. Once it comes on I can drive around for a day or two, and it'll go away on its own. Other than the smell/code, the cars been driving exactly the same as the day I bought it. I can check the base timing tonight, but other than that it'll have to wait until I tear it down for a timing belt next month. I'll check the injectors/o-rings, and swap the plugs out.
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Well I ran out of time last night, but I plan to follow this procedure for the timing:
"Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Jump TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (under the hood, not in the passenger compartment). Using a timing light check the timing. It should be 10 degrees +-2 degrees BTDC at idle with the transmission in neutral and all accessories turned off.
Loosen the distributor nut and adjust the timing by turning the distributor until the timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the nut to 19 newton meters (about 14 ft lbs). Remove the jumper from the DLC1."
"Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Jump TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (under the hood, not in the passenger compartment). Using a timing light check the timing. It should be 10 degrees +-2 degrees BTDC at idle with the transmission in neutral and all accessories turned off.
Loosen the distributor nut and adjust the timing by turning the distributor until the timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the nut to 19 newton meters (about 14 ft lbs). Remove the jumper from the DLC1."
#10
BahHumBug
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Well I ran out of time last night, but I plan to follow this procedure for the timing:
"Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Jump TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (under the hood, not in the passenger compartment). Using a timing light check the timing. It should be 10 degrees +-2 degrees BTDC at idle with the transmission in neutral and all accessories turned off.
Loosen the distributor nut and adjust the timing by turning the distributor until the timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the nut to 19 newton meters (about 14 ft lbs). Remove the jumper from the DLC1."
"Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Jump TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (under the hood, not in the passenger compartment). Using a timing light check the timing. It should be 10 degrees +-2 degrees BTDC at idle with the transmission in neutral and all accessories turned off.
Loosen the distributor nut and adjust the timing by turning the distributor until the timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the nut to 19 newton meters (about 14 ft lbs). Remove the jumper from the DLC1."
These instructions are for a 1st gen LS400 and do not apply to later model cars. Both the method (no distributor on later cars) and timing jumper are incorrect. (for later model cars.)..
Here are 98-00 instructions, these are from the 2000 FSM and should apply to all usdm 98-00.
5. CONNECT LEXUS HAND–HELD TESTER OR OBD II SCAN TOOL
(a) Connect the hand–held tester or OBD II scan tool to the DLC3.
(b) Please refer to the hand–held tester or OBD II scan tool operator’s manual for further details.
6. CONNECT TIMING LIGHT TO ENGINE
Connect the tester probe of a timing light to the yellow lead wire of the ignition coil connector for No.1 cylinder.
7. CHECK IDLE SPEED
(a) Race the engine speed at 2,500 rpm for approx. 90 seconds.
(b) Check the idle speed.
Idle speed: 750 ± 50 rpm
8. INSPECT IGNITION TIMING
(a) Using SST, connect terminals TC and E1 of the DLC1.
SST 09843–18020
(b) Using a timing light, check the ignition timing.
Ignition timing: 8 – 12° BTDC @ idle
(Transmission in neutral position)
(c) Remove the SST from the DLC1.
SST 09843–18020
9. DISCONNECT TIMING LIGHT FROM ENGINE
10. DISCONNECT LEXUS HAND–HELD TESTER OR OBD II SCAN TOOL
I have attached year 2000 instructions.
Please note: timing is NOT adjustable in 98-00 cars. If the timing is off it is usually due to an issue with the belt, VVTi gear/actuator solenoid, throttle body, or similar.
Last edited by PureDrifter; 03-18-16 at 12:27 PM.
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