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For the last three days I've monitored the coolant temp from start up to when it reaches it's final temperature of about 187 to 190 degree F. I don't really understand why the P0125 code came up- incase it's truly intermittent.
Had a P0420 come back. I took a look and sure enough there is hole on the same catalyst/y flange area that had a leak when I replaced my transmission last year. So, looks like the muffler weld product used ten months ago failed. I just used a file and re-glued it again with the same product. I also found a small hole on the passenger side too and patched that also. Today I will do a pan dump on the transmission fluid and see how the fluid looks.
It's great to see new updates on your car. I tried some muffler weld on another car 2 years ago, and it only lasted about a year as well. It would be nice to find a better product in the future.
It's great to see new updates on your car. I tried some muffler weld on another car 2 years ago, and it only lasted about a year as well. It would be nice to find a better product in the future.
Hope the transmission fluid change goes well
I haven't posted much because after the transmission changeout last year- I haven't had many troubles. It was a tough couple year battle to go through the entire car and replace all that was neglected/old age, but now it drives great. On the muffler weld, if I can look at it as a ongoing maintenance issue, I will just end up patching it as needed. The true solution is buying a "new" Y pipe. All the upick solutions will just probably have the same trouble as mine. It is a rather large hole.
On the transmission oil changeout, I only got about 2.66 quarts. Most of my other cars I get more like 4/5 quarts out on a change. I will do another one today and be done on it.
I haven't posted much because after the transmission changeout last year- I haven't had many troubles. It was a tough couple year battle to go through the entire car and replace all that was neglected/old age, but now it drives great. On the muffler weld, if I can look at it as a ongoing maintenance issue, I will just end up patching it as needed. The true solution is buying a "new" Y pipe. All the upick solutions will just probably have the same trouble as mine. It is a rather large hole.
On the transmission oil changeout, I only got about 2.66 quarts. Most of my other cars I get more like 4/5 quarts out on a change. I will do another one today and be done on it.
That's great to hear! After all of the work you put in, your car really is like new.
I've been doing the same transmission fluid changes to my 1991, draining only 2.6~ish quarts of oil each time. I will be doing that again this year, and probably once more next year to try and circulate the new fluid through the system.
Originally Posted by spuds
Agreed.Good thread.
Jaaa, Banshee365, and AmSkeptic have had some really great threads in recent times. They're some of the best detailed discussions available!
Well, my P0420 came back. I pulled off the y pipe yesterday and ground down both sides of the end of the flange. Not easy as there is the extended pipe in the middle that prohibits an even grinding with the angle grinder I used. The flange of both cats were quite easy as there is no pipe stopping you from putting the sanding wheel of my angle grinder over the whole end of the flange. When I had removed the whole exhaust to put in a new transmission, a tech at a muffler shop recommended that I use Permatex Ultra Copper when I reassembled the exhaust- but I didn't put too much in that first time. Yesterday when I put it back together I used quite a bit of the Permatex. I also used my Muffler weld compound on the seam of both flanges after it was reassembled. I took a close look at how the two flanges mated. The bottom half of both sides seemed to have a close fit, but the upper half of both flanges seemed to have a gap. I let the car sit overnight and then fired it up this morning. After a few minutes, a small string of the Ultra Copper started(maybe a 16th of an inch) shooting out of the top of both flanges and curled into about a quarter inch ball. This is the same location that I've had leaks before. After a few more minutes the Ultra Copper stopped flowing out. I checked for leaks and I didn't find any. I drove it around today and no leaks yet. In no way am I claiming victory, but I will keep this forum informed as to the outcome.
Before I started grinding the y pipe flanges I took a good look at the seam that runs around it. On what would be the upper side on both flanges- the seam is barely there- being eaten by corrosion. After I was done grinding I had about 3/16 inch width on that seam. I'll come back if it fails or come back in a year if all is well.
It's been two weeks since I did my flange repair and thought I'd give you an update. There are no leaks yet and thought I'd post some pictures of what the ultra copper Permatex looks like as it oozed out.
I've been trying to learn about long term, short term fuel trims and been getting weird long term fuel trim numbers(on both banks) at idle. My idle has been very low for quite some time. Car runs just fine, but the idle has been between 500-600. At idle my long term fuel trims have gone to over 10 on both banks. If you kick up the idle by hitting the accelerator, the long term trims come back to a more normal level. While driving the car the fuel trims seem normal on both long and short term. Only at slow idle have I had seemingly strange numbers. Since I had never cleaned the throttle body, I took it off and gave it a good cleaning. From what I could see it had never been off, and was severely coked up. Below is a before and after picture. I took it for a ride and the idle is way up from before, but I think it will take some time to relearn it's desired speed. I haven't seen any weird long term fuel trim numbers since I did the cleaning.
Just came back from a 4200 mile trip to florida and back to Colorado. Had my back brakes start to make noise as I hit Mississippi, so did a down and dirty pad swap so I could get home. Had just one random P0420 come on in this trip. I don't hear the usual noise where a leak of the cat flange/y-pipe occurs. I cleared the code and it didn't come back the entire trip. I need to get underneath the car to tell if I've sprung a leak at the flange. I wanted to do an oil usage test on this trip so I filled it up with oil right to the top of the fill line before I left. Here is a picture of the level after I came back(not bad for a 247k mile car):
I've had a bad antenna for the last 6 months that I've just lived with as it wasn't a pressing problem as I drove around town. On my trip to Florida, I thought my reception wasn't the greatest- so it's time to fix it. My antenna would go up about 6 inches and stay there till I turned the car off where it would go down again. I pulled one from a pick pull today. I reinstalled it by pulling the power on the old unit while the power was on- then pulled it out and reinserted my new antenna and connected the power and other connections. Now, the antenna goes up just fine, but it doesn't go down by itself unless I give it the slightest nudge from the top of the antenna- as I hear the motor rotating. Once it starts going down, it will seat itself just fine. I could live with tapping on top of the antenna as I get out of the car, but it would be better if I fixed this right. Anyone out there have a good remove and replace tutorial? Or any idea what is going on with mine. I will still tear apart the old one to see what's wrong with it. One more thing. I don't see the antenna moving as I tune from station to station in the FM side(do hear the motor however. Pick pull price for a new unit was $15.
I've had a bad antenna for the last 6 months that I've just lived with as it wasn't a pressing problem as I drove around town. On my trip to Florida, I thought my reception wasn't the greatest- so it's time to fix it. My antenna would go up about 6 inches and stay there till I turned the car off where it would go down again. I pulled one from a pick pull today. I reinstalled it by pulling the power on the old unit while the power was on- then pulled it out and reinserted my new antenna and connected the power and other connections. Now, the antenna goes up just fine, but it doesn't go down by itself unless I give it the slightest nudge from the top of the antenna- as I hear the motor rotating. Once it starts going down, it will seat itself just fine. I could live with tapping on top of the antenna as I get out of the car, but it would be better if I fixed this right. Anyone out there have a good remove and replace tutorial? Or any idea what is going on with mine. I will still tear apart the old one to see what's wrong with it. One more thing. I don't see the antenna moving as I tune from station to station in the FM side(do hear the motor however. Pick pull price for a new unit was $15.
03-25-18, 08:18 AM
