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I'm currently working on my 91 Ls that's been sitting for two years. Reason is it had a bad oil leak from the crank seal and the car would literally buck back n forth sometimes in the morning on my way to work. Well I finally decided to tackle this crank seal myself. I also plan to replace the cam seals and the two shift solenoids for the tranny bucking.
I really like this car, it was my first car purchase. I got it back in 2008 with only 124,000 miles on it and I only paid $1,300 for it and nothing was wrong with it just needed cleaning and a tune up. It now has 140,000 on the odo. Also right before it developed the oil leak, I had the water pump and timing belt replaced but I didn't think to have the cam and crank seals replaced too.
Question. Is the LH Timing Cam Lined correctly? In the pic below you see two marks on the LH Cam the yellow and white. I made the white mark when I Lined everything to TDC. Which marker (white or the yellow) should be lined up to the marker on the engine cover? It is currently lined up to the white. BTW this is my first time do a timing belt/ crank or Cam seal job ever.
You were supposed to mark the belt before removing it if you planned to reuse it. Did you rotate the engine several times to make sure they lined up the same way every TWO turns?
You were supposed to mark the belt before removing it if you planned to reuse it. Did you rotate the engine several times to make sure they lined up the same way every TWO turns?
I have NOT replaced anything yet. Just started this afternoon I'm still in the process of tearing down. I was just curious if everything was lined correctly BEFORE I start removing the belt. BTW this timing belt is still new, it has less than 10,000 miles on it. Two years ago I had a mechanic replace the both belt and pump, then the car develop an oil leak soon afterwards so its been sitting ever since. The car drove with no problems except the leaking crank seal.
Done for the night, got to go to Harbor Freight in the morning to get pulley remover tool. I got the crank bolt out via the "bump starter" method, but the pulley won't budge.
So far eazy peazy. Now I gotta wait four to five days for my OTC pulley holder tool to arrive from Amazon to remove the cam pulleys. The water pump gasket is leaking too.
Hmmmm not so easy peazy huh?
I can understand the 5 foot cheater pipe working on a big bull dozer, but it shouldn't be needed on a Lexus?
Lol. This is a 91, those Cam bolts prolly never been loosen before and it took us less than 20mins to do it. I have no impact gun, so I had to use what I had. As for as the steel pipe, I believe this is commonly used for leverage when trying to break lose the crank bolt and to a lesser extent the cam bolt.
Now I need to get some multi purpose grease to lube the inner lip of the seals before installing them. I'm also leaning towards using red rtv sealant for the water pump since the gasket was leaking badly.
seals are good to use! NOK, if i am not mistaken, is OEM and the BA is made in japan! just be sure to drive it in to the right depth. take note of the depth before removing the old ones. i heard using a house paint can opener is a good seal remover. use an appropriate socket or PVC pipe to install the seals.
red RTV is good, but i like to use toyota FIPG for more security. the wp gasket shouldn't have leaked meaning the pump was probably torqued incorrectly or the mating surface wasn't cleaned prior to reinstallation.
Well I think I might have drove the cam seals in a little too far, first timer. I'm willing to leave them in to see if they will leak when I start driving. I used some pvc pips from Home Depot and lightly tap them in with a hammer. I will used red rtv on the water pump and water inlet housing.
Before, original NOK seals.
After, new LH Timken seal installed.
RH Cam seal.
Original NOK crank seal
New Beck Arnley crank seal installed
Nice tool where did you find it? And how does it pry the seal with it locked to that post? Even without the thumb screw the hole keeps if from levering, that's how it looks anyway.
Nice tool where did you find it? And how does it pry the seal with it locked to that post? Even without the thumb screw the hole keeps if from levering, that's how it looks anyway.
I got it from Amazon for like $15, type in "seal remover". In my opinion this the easiest way to pull seals out without damaging the shafts. Also there a few YouTube videos that shows how use this tool very simple.
Okay I got the belt on and everything looked like its aligned correctly but my gut feeling tells me this belt Cam markings might be 1 tooth off. The belt is a NAPA brand belt from NAPA auto parts store, I know only use dealer parts, I can get a Mitsuboshi belt(dealer part) from a local import store for $57 or a Gates belt for $33. BTW I have NOT yet turned the engine two revolutions yet.
Should I leave it like it is or get a new belt?? LH cam. The white line aligns exactly with the cam mark
The LH cam and belt marking seems to line up with the dent on the back plate.
The RH cam, here is where I suspect the belt markings might by off by a tooth or two. I think the cam should up one notch to align with the back plate maker, or is this correct?
06-18-15, 05:04 PM
91 Ls Project. Is the Timing Lined Correct?
. This is a 91, those Cam bolts prolly never been loosen before and it took us less than 20mins to do it. I have no impact gun, so I had to use what I had. As for as the steel pipe, I believe this is commonly used for leverage when trying to break lose the crank bolt and to a lesser extent the cam bolt.
