tsxnbp

iTrader: (4)

Hello everyone,

I searched and read through many posts suggesting to cut rather than rolling will cause dimples/deformation but is that only if you try to roll them flat?

I do not run crazy aggressive offset/width wheels and I am not after that hella flush look with mangled body..I just want a nice clean maximum drop when aired out.

With the Traffic Star wheels I ran last fall, the fender lip starts off scuffing & eventually rests on the tire sidewall. If I can get the lip angled some what but not necesssarily flat it should give me just enough space to clear / hopefully sit lower when aired out.

Anyone here rolled the fenders mildly on their 98-00 LS? Did even minor rolling cause body deformation?

Thank you all in advance for your feedback.

phanham

Haven't tried rolling fenders, but thought I'd leave this...

Eastwood via eBay.com has Eastwood Fender Roller Lip Forming & Rolling Tool for Large Tires (31158) on sale for $89.99. Shipping is free - Link

enigma94

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered the above tool and should have it sometime by the end of the week. I'm going for a similar stance as you, want it flush but not to the point to where I have to roll the fenders flat or pull them. From my understanding the fronts can be rolled pretty aggressively since they are a thinner metal but the rears have the thick metal which is hard to roll without deforming them. My plan is to cut some relief cuts so when I roll the lip it rolls it in sections rather than trying to roll the whole lip as one unit, if that makes sense. Then after I get them where I want tem to cut the lip In half so I don't have a huge 1/2" lip tucked up in there, but still have a nice rounded edge at the lip of the fender. I'll be using a heat gun as well to try and keep the paint from cracking as well. I'll let you know how it goes, may do a mini write up as well if it turns out good.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

ken, here is my advice. just take a look at the fenders after removing the edge moldings you will immediately notice that the fenders are VERY thick. eastwood rollers, and the like, are made for one or two-ply metal. our LS is double that on the rear arches, which makes rolling very difficult.

yes it's entirely possible to roll but you will risk paint damage, and dimpling on the rear quarter panel if you try to go flat or get a mild pull. i only recommend rolling if you need 3-5mm or clearance. yes the front fenders are thinner so you can get away with more there.

how about this, try and remove the edge moldings on all the fender arches and see if you still scrub. sometimes just doing that may give enough clearance!

tsxnbp

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Tim.

I actually removed the black molding last fall already and that definitely helped...I think I need minimum 5mm more...was hoping to get closer to 10mm more clearance.

I guess only way to find out is try rolling it by going slow and steady...stop if it looks like it is close to start dimpling. That was the only good thing about owning hondas...you can roll the fenders super easy! hahaha

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

lol yeah man i did my hondas no problem too but with the LS it's a different animal. the dimpling will occur at the middle of the quarter panel, but that's only if you are doing a crazy pull. a mild roll will not cause dimpling, but will inherently cause paint fractures.

remember to keep the paint hot to the touch when rolling, where you can barely touch the surface with your bare hands. use a heat gun and move slow and evenly.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

Do not roll the rear, only shave. THe metal is too thick for a clean roll.
For the front, it WILL dimple unless you trim the areas with the square holes for the fender liner clips. Trim those out then roll and you should be alright.

tsxnbp

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the tip.

I was hoping to avoid doing any cutting / shaving but I guess you can't avaoid it if I want to gain any signifiicant clearance.

So if you shave the rear lip down do you have to do anything to finish it off other than simply touching up the paint?

enigma94

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody tried cutting relief cuts in the rear prior to rolling them like I mentioned in my previous post?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

agreed! there are square holes that are at the front fenders to hold the nylon nuts where the screws go into to secure the edge moldings. what my fender roller expert (tony from the 818, google him) told me is that bc of these holes, they make the metal in those spots soft so you don't get consistent pressure on the fender roller. where it's soft will pull out the metal which will not result in a uniform arch. so he immediately recommend to trim/cut when he saw my car.

since it is bare metal afterwards, a good primer is really all you need to protect it. touch up paint works to match the paint color if so desired but i would do more if your car sees salt.

tony in action!


relief cuts will result in inconsistent metal strength and will result in the same issue i mentioned above.

enigma94

iTrader: (1)

How close to the edge of the fender did he cut? How much, if any material is left? Any pics??