Speedometer reads slow after repairing needle illumination
#1
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Speedometer reads slow after repairing needle illumination
I had a partially lit speedometer needle in my '91 LS400, and repaired it myself by using silver conductive grease behind the needle to re-establish the electric connection. Solved that problem, but created a new one. The speedometer now reads about 20km's too slow, (driving at 20, 40, 60 it reads 0, 20, 40 respectively).
I suppose it could be because I added a very small amount of weight to the needle by adding the grease or maybe it's because I touched the needle a few times.
Has anyone found a solution to this problem, any adjustments or calibration that can be done to the needle for a correct reading?
***Solution*** Since the needle was sitting below 0 while stationary, I carefully rotated the needle back to the 0 position and gently pushed it in until it clicked. It now reads correctly at any speed.
.
I suppose it could be because I added a very small amount of weight to the needle by adding the grease or maybe it's because I touched the needle a few times.
Has anyone found a solution to this problem, any adjustments or calibration that can be done to the needle for a correct reading?
***Solution*** Since the needle was sitting below 0 while stationary, I carefully rotated the needle back to the 0 position and gently pushed it in until it clicked. It now reads correctly at any speed.
.
Last edited by Jordanf; 11-09-15 at 09:12 AM. Reason: Figured out the problem
#2
Yeah, you simply got the needle back in the wrong position when you reinstalled it. You will need to carefully note the needle position now, pull it off and try to reinstall it 20km further CW. We had to glue the needle in place on the 92 because it jumped position after hitting a bump and did not register proper speed anymore. And yes, this after pulling the needle to do a light (LED) repair. They are really not meant to be pulled but it can be done.
Last edited by randal; 09-30-14 at 02:58 PM.
#3
No - the needles are NOT removable.
If the needle is not at 0 with the car off then you will likely need to replace the entire needle and motor assembly. They are very easy to break or force the needle past calibration when removing the assembly or pushing on the needle.
If the needle is not at 0 with the car off then you will likely need to replace the entire needle and motor assembly. They are very easy to break or force the needle past calibration when removing the assembly or pushing on the needle.
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TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
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