blkstealthpaid4

I have looked a the tutorials on the first gen.I have replaced all my struts , strut rod,tie rod ,and done tune up but never this complicated.I see most people are having cranking issues when they are done.I plan on also replacing my crank seal while doing this.I also plan on getting the AISIn kit from ebay. I MUST ADMIT I AM QUITE SCARED TO TACKLE THIS JOB

blkstealthpaid4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-SOARER-SC400-LEXUS-LS400-V8-1UZ-FE-2UZ-FE-WORKSHOP-REPAIR-CDROM-/321524387415?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4adc58ce57Would anyone recommend this manual?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

all the info you need is in this forum or in the in the link below. just let us know your questions and we will help you along the way.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the TB Job is particularly hard just time consuming. You might as well do your camshaft seals and crank seal while your in there. Here's a link to do a 98 but it's basically the same procedure. The original poster is very helpful too if you run into any problems since he is still very active on this board and LOC.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...cement-how-to/

This is for an ES but its the same procedure to remove the crank seal. The OP is the same guy who made the TB tutorial.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...rank-seal.html

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

NO NO NO... you dont need that. all the help you need is here. plus 95-97 are the easiest to do.
not hard but time consuming, take it off in order and put it back on in order...

brybo86

I did this 3 weeks ago on my 95 LS
I followed the lexls.com tutorial and bagged/labeled everything in plastic bags
I had the laptop out in the garage to view the website.

Tools I needed were
metric socket set and ratchet
breaker bar
multiple socket extensions
channel lock pliers for hose clamps
torque wrenches for 181 ft/lbs to 36 inch lbs for distributor parts, I used 3 separate torque wrenches.
couple of prybars to remove water pump
rented harmonic banancer puller from o'reillys
I used air impact gun to remove crankbolt and cam bolts
OTC 4754 universal pulley holder used to hold crank and cams while removing and installing(lifesaver)
paint can opener or paint key used to remove seals
and PVC pipe to install the seals
the one part of the tutorial I found to be a bit fuzzy was the distributor rotor installation. Make sure you line up the tabs on the back of the distributor rotor with the groove in the cam pulley

notable difficult sections for me were
my air intake was almost glued on, just keep pulling
the water bypass pipe is a very tight squeeze when removing the RH timing cover
lowest fan bracket bolt actually goes through the AC unit and is in a very tight spot with only a few degrees of movment to work with
There are 2 small screws that hold a small bracket on top of the AC unit, the bracket must be removed in order to remove the fan bracket. I used a couple long extensions between the battery and fuse box and a phillips socket to remove them


And I used the gasket by itself that comes with the kit for the water pump and RTV on the pump to inlet housing

blkstealthpaid4

Interesting stuff and quite detailed

kevvo

>> Would anyone recommend this manual? <<

Not me. I have that disc and the layout is all over the place. Ended up buying some Lexus manufactured manuals online.

brybo86

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...s400-172k.html

my thread, some pics the distributor rotors if you would like to see

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

here is how i did my timing belt FYI.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/6776087-post26.html

not a step by step, but totally doable if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.

Kingsoup

This is also a great video and very close to the same as an LS400, I used it lots when I did mine.


I think based on the repairs you've done, you can do this.


Follow my advice, I've done lots of timing belts, Ls400 recently.

DO not rush the job, do it exactly as it is described, if you need to drive the car to work and its the night before, do not do it, plan a few days to tackle it, helps to have a buddy to troubleshoot with if you can. You gotta do this repair right or its a bloody disastor.

Its not complicated compared to some other belts I've done, you just have to be methodical, make little baggies for all the bolts, take lots of pictures as you dis-assemble things in case you need it for reference. Make sure you mark all the belts before you take it off, and follow the guide for re-aligning stuff, and you'll save a boatload of money.

Also I have used this techinque for many many cars to get the crank bolt off, I put soft rope down into a cylinder, which squishes up against the piston freezing the engine, always works for me.