Michael

Nope, the switch is stuck OFF and it is only turned on if I need to:
1. Adjust power seat
2. Use a power lock
3. Open Trunk
4. Open fuel lid

And I know the current leak is NOT at the alternator.

This is a temporary patch and I am going to look into it to find among the list above. I had to find a way to use the car. With this type of problem, car cannot be used because the battery get drained, overnight.

I have a hunch that it is from the driver side power seat.

Yamae

Don't you have an intermittent problem of any door lock/unlock?
I once had it and it was causing a battery drain within a few of days. The motor inside of the actuator did not rotate fully and the contacts were not fully open/close. This was detected by the method at the FAQ. The title is, "How to check for parasitic drain with a multimeter".

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

I would throughly inspect the trunk harness first.
I would also recheck your cig lighters and the ignition switch even though you might not think they are within the circuit.

fixmiester

"2/14, door ajar switch lubed with graphite powder"

I haven't looked at the schematic, but graphite lubricant is electrically conductive; this may be taking your battery voltage to ground through ~2ohm path. Give it a look.

Michael

Shemee,

Thanks for your tips. Both trunk harness and cig lighter has been checked for presents of heat and there were no heat present. 7 Amp is a lot of current and it should generate much heat.

Ignition switch that you are referring to is the switch where you inset key into to start the engine, right? I've check for any heat present but there were none. What could go wrong there? Current drain happens even without key in the ignition. I am not sure how to take the thing apart either.....

Michael

I know for fact that is not the villain for current drain because, with the manual switch off, I lose few power functions as indicated previous post and I am not losing any current. The door switch works fine without any problem.

Speaking of which the graphite lube is one of the simplest trick I've learn from this forum and had great success. I though about replacing all four switches. Front seems simple enough but the rear, I had no idea how to replace them. Cost of switches weren't that cheap either. The door ajar switch now works. Good as new.

Michael

I read through the FAQ you've mentioned. And I've decided to use your resistance method to try to narrow down exact component. I will report afterward. Thanks.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

Do not assume heat alone is the only sign of failure. While it can be a telltale sign of an issue, it can also not be as obvious to detect as some would make it out to be.

Again, start with removing the sheathing from the harness and inspect the wires on the trunk harness.
You should be using a quality DVOM to do a voltage drop test on all suspect component or a resistance check if know values are available.

zoomee99

Turns out I was reading my multimeter wrong...you have to move the lead to a different port to make a current measurement....doh!! When I use the multimeter correctly it read .01A which I can live with. The dead battery was because the door didn't close all the way and left the dome light on for a couple of days.

So no trouble found...or trouble found with the operator!

Jim