Question about changing cam seals on 98 with VVT-i
05-15-14, 11:23 AM
#17
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Here's a quick video I just took. Yours looks really dirty, maybe this visual will help in understanding how it is oriented in there ( If you don't already know). One thing I know is that the Throttle Cable is VERY strong cable. Hope this helps, I can take a couple more if need be.
05-15-14, 12:24 PM
#19
Here's a quick video I just took. Yours looks really dirty, maybe this visual will help in understanding how it is oriented in there ( If you don't already know). One thing I know is that the Throttle Cable is VERY strong cable. Hope this helps, I can take a couple more if need be.
for the video! good job!
05-15-14, 02:03 PM
#20
Well I got the cable off it was really stuck in there. I had to open the throttle up and hold it with a screwdriver then take another ice pic type screw diver and bang it out from the back side off the throttle lever. There is a hole there I guess for these type of situations. You can see why it was stuck when you look at the pic. I actually got in touch with another member PjLex who has done this job and he should be posting in this thread.
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Resize
05-15-14, 03:58 PM
#22
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I recall taking off the throttle body, but as i recall I didn't disconnect the wire from from the throttle body. I unbolted it and then put it to the side while still connected via wire. I even reused the gasket, which for me was okay, because it was in good condition.
05-15-14, 07:32 PM
#23
Another thing is that I ordered what I thought were cam seals but they are smaller than the seal thats on the timing tube but they were described as cam seals when I ordered them from lexus of south Atlanta. I'm finding out even though they have the best prices that they have sent me the wrong part two times before and maybe a third if these are not the correct seals. I'll post a pic of the seals.
My question is how did YOU align the service bolt holes? How did you remove the cams? Both exhaust and intake at the same time or one before the other? And lastly how did you realign the cams to put them back at 50 degrees past TDC? I know that's a lot of questions but hopefully you can clear it up for me and anyone else that reads this thread in the future. I have scoured the web and there is not one tutorial on how to do this job on the 98-00 ls400.
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 07:38 AM. Reason: Resize
05-15-14, 08:17 PM
#25
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okay, thanks for the update.
First things first, the all important thing is the cam's alignment and keeping that alignment through out the job and finishing with it. You lose alignment and your engine is ****ed, you will need a new top half. expensive.
So to start, if the cams are out of alignment, how are the out of alignment specifically? Which way did they rotate to be out of alignment and how far? You have to be sure of that. Because I essentially undid the unalignment of the cams, after you originally set the alignment in the first place.
First things first, the all important thing is the cam's alignment and keeping that alignment through out the job and finishing with it. You lose alignment and your engine is ****ed, you will need a new top half. expensive.
So to start, if the cams are out of alignment, how are the out of alignment specifically? Which way did they rotate to be out of alignment and how far? You have to be sure of that. Because I essentially undid the unalignment of the cams, after you originally set the alignment in the first place.
05-15-14, 08:22 PM
#26
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Secondly for the alignment, I used a strap wrench from craftsman. With about a half inch or 3/4 wide rubber strap. That worked great, because it takes a fair amount of force to rotate the cams.
Also be aware that the driver's side cam feels like it is spring loaded to a certain degree. I had it aligned and causally touched it and that would be enough to push it and make it rotate clockwise about 1/2 a rotation.
The first time it did this, I freaked out and because it does it fairly quick and surprises you. But after i learned how to realign, I was okay. I probably had to realign the drivers side cam 3 times or as many as 6 times.
Also be aware that the driver's side cam feels like it is spring loaded to a certain degree. I had it aligned and causally touched it and that would be enough to push it and make it rotate clockwise about 1/2 a rotation.
The first time it did this, I freaked out and because it does it fairly quick and surprises you. But after i learned how to realign, I was okay. I probably had to realign the drivers side cam 3 times or as many as 6 times.
05-15-14, 08:30 PM
#27
Well when I was doing the timing belt I followed all the guide lines and set everything to 50 degrees past TDC. Then I removed the belt and the drivers side rotated forward a little. No problem there, I just backed it up to it's original position. I then proceeded with the rest of the TB job and changed the crank seal also. I then put the water pump and both Idler pulleys on and stopped there to turn my attention to the cam seal job.
I removed both cam covers and inspected the passenger side to see where the service hole and the cam marks were but to my surprise they were lined up perfectly already. So I placed the bolt into the service hole and went over to the drivers side. I noticed that the holes were not lined up and would need to rotate the exhaust cam a lil under half a revolution. I've been turning it slowly and almost got them lined up but felt some slight resistance so I stopped and that's where I left it for the time being until I heard from you.
By the way did you look at the pic of the seals that I have? That seal is way smaller than the seal that's on the timing tube in the pic I posted above your post. I'm trying to figure out if I have to call the dealership up and get the correct seal now.
I removed both cam covers and inspected the passenger side to see where the service hole and the cam marks were but to my surprise they were lined up perfectly already. So I placed the bolt into the service hole and went over to the drivers side. I noticed that the holes were not lined up and would need to rotate the exhaust cam a lil under half a revolution. I've been turning it slowly and almost got them lined up but felt some slight resistance so I stopped and that's where I left it for the time being until I heard from you.
By the way did you look at the pic of the seals that I have? That seal is way smaller than the seal that's on the timing tube in the pic I posted above your post. I'm trying to figure out if I have to call the dealership up and get the correct seal now.
05-15-14, 08:34 PM
#29
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I ordered my parts from Sewell lexus online, I had a great experience with them and continue to use them. If you let them know you are a club lexus member you get and additional discount. You are probably aware of that.
I know that they are more expensive, but given the PITA nature of the job I did not want to be redoing it anytime soon. You have to have the right parts, even a little bit of difference with a gasket can really kill you. Get the part numbers and be sure.
The service bolt: i just followed the instruction exactly, to the t. At the end remember to take out the service bolts immobilizing the cams, I didn't almost completely f d my engine. I rotated the engine to check alignment and almost got the bolt stuck in the cam. I had to cut it out with a hack saw blade. Took like three hours sucked! So write a reminder. The instructions tell you that, but it is easy to get into hurry. with this job,slow is fast!
Removing and installing the cams: this is pretty straight forward per the instructions. try to remove and install the cam while keeping them level and use motor oil to lube the surfaces with the install. Also, it is nice to have a little torque wrench for the bolts, I forget the exact torque setting but it is under 25 ft lbs. I tightened them back by feel, and tried to make them the same. But I wished i had access to a torque wrench with settings under 25 ft pounds.
Also, with all the gaskets, like the Fix in Place ones. It is worth it to pay more for the exact type that Toyota specifies. the toyota brand, excellent product , others are trash.
And I forget the exact name of the part, I think it is the oil sender part on the top of the cam. I pulled those out per instructions and made sure to replace the gaskets with new ones.
I know that they are more expensive, but given the PITA nature of the job I did not want to be redoing it anytime soon. You have to have the right parts, even a little bit of difference with a gasket can really kill you. Get the part numbers and be sure.
The service bolt: i just followed the instruction exactly, to the t. At the end remember to take out the service bolts immobilizing the cams, I didn't almost completely f d my engine. I rotated the engine to check alignment and almost got the bolt stuck in the cam. I had to cut it out with a hack saw blade. Took like three hours sucked! So write a reminder. The instructions tell you that, but it is easy to get into hurry. with this job,slow is fast!
Removing and installing the cams: this is pretty straight forward per the instructions. try to remove and install the cam while keeping them level and use motor oil to lube the surfaces with the install. Also, it is nice to have a little torque wrench for the bolts, I forget the exact torque setting but it is under 25 ft lbs. I tightened them back by feel, and tried to make them the same. But I wished i had access to a torque wrench with settings under 25 ft pounds.
Also, with all the gaskets, like the Fix in Place ones. It is worth it to pay more for the exact type that Toyota specifies. the toyota brand, excellent product , others are trash.
And I forget the exact name of the part, I think it is the oil sender part on the top of the cam. I pulled those out per instructions and made sure to replace the gaskets with new ones.