Treating air suspension bladders for longevity?
02-16-14, 08:06 PM
#1
Treating air suspension bladders for longevity?
I posted this on the 430 side a while back but no one had any insight. I'm hoping my fellow members may have some comments as the 400 air bags are similar enough.
Long story short, I purchased a lightly used air suspension for my LS430 as backup as this is really the only item that concerns me on my 430. Nothing is wrong with them now but I am sure they will fail at some point. Only 50k on them. Got them for a great deal with a low ball offer via eBay. They look in really good shape and no signs of leakage or cracking.
My idea is to treat the outside of the rubber bladder with Shin Etsu grease to help keep the rubber conditioned and prevent dry rot and / or cracking. Does this make sense or seem like a logical idea? I spoke to a few Lexus dealers about the air shocks and preserving them. The only advice I was given was to keep them clean. Anyway, just wanted to see if this idea makes any sense or am I off my rocker...
Here is a pic of what the parts look like. The rubber bladders are under those covers.
Long story short, I purchased a lightly used air suspension for my LS430 as backup as this is really the only item that concerns me on my 430. Nothing is wrong with them now but I am sure they will fail at some point. Only 50k on them. Got them for a great deal with a low ball offer via eBay. They look in really good shape and no signs of leakage or cracking.
My idea is to treat the outside of the rubber bladder with Shin Etsu grease to help keep the rubber conditioned and prevent dry rot and / or cracking. Does this make sense or seem like a logical idea? I spoke to a few Lexus dealers about the air shocks and preserving them. The only advice I was given was to keep them clean. Anyway, just wanted to see if this idea makes any sense or am I off my rocker...
Here is a pic of what the parts look like. The rubber bladders are under those covers.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-16-14 at 10:00 PM.
02-16-14, 10:50 PM
#2
they're going to wear out anyways, not much you can do. Keep in mind that rubber+petroleum based grease isn't a good idea, and a silicone based grease
I would post this on the BITOG forums and see what they recommend. Maybe see hat commercial big rigs use on their air bags?
I would post this on the BITOG forums and see what they recommend. Maybe see hat commercial big rigs use on their air bags?
02-17-14, 04:30 AM
#4
I have treated my rubber weather stripping with this product product, LScowboyLS recommended this, and it definitely works very well in conditioning rubber. Honda uses this stuff on their cars and there are a lot of good reviews all over the net. Something that an LS owner can do to their car easily. The other area people use it is the rubber window tracks. Anyway, here are a few links but I will try to research some more and see if I can find out anything else.
Amazon:
Shin-Etsu
http://www.silicone.jp/e/products/ty...se/index.shtml
Amazon:
Shin-Etsu
http://www.silicone.jp/e/products/ty...se/index.shtml
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-17-14 at 05:34 AM.
02-17-14, 08:39 AM
#7
Lead Lap
amazon has shin etsu for 15 bucks shipped, oem honda stuff.
I got some mothers vinyl and rubber restorer and protector. I will be using this on my aftermarket air suspension bags. They have tiny weather cracking, nothing unusual being 4 years old. Supposed to restore its suppleness. Actually going to apply this today. well see how it performs.
I got some mothers vinyl and rubber restorer and protector. I will be using this on my aftermarket air suspension bags. They have tiny weather cracking, nothing unusual being 4 years old. Supposed to restore its suppleness. Actually going to apply this today. well see how it performs.
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02-17-14, 11:15 AM
#8
Part of my ideology in this matter is that not only will it return some of the elasticity to the rubber but also help repell water, salt, and other chemicals that may splash up onto the bladders. Take some pics and lets us know any observations.
I found this online too:
I found this online too:
Your bike's tires have several formidable enemies: water, formaldehyde, petroleum distillates, ultraviolet light, and ozone. Water washes away the natural oils in rubber that keep it elastic. Formaldehyde and petroleum distillates act as a solvent, eating rubber on contact. When ozone, an odorless gas which is part of the air we breathe, is combined with ultraviolet (UV) light, a reaction occurs that attacks the tire and its polymers (the agents that bind the rubber).
To protect against ozone and UV damage, a stabilizer molecule called a competitive absorber is blended with the tire polymer. Competitive absorbers work by capturing and absorbing UV radiation and converting it to heat which is dissipated harmlessly. All tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, called carbon black. This is why all tires are black.
These absorbers are sacrificial; they expend themselves in performing their function of converting UV light to heat. However, as carbon black loses its ability to perform, it turns gray. This is one reason why black tires discolor as they age.
To protect from further ozone damage, tire manufacturers add a wax compound to their formulas. Tires flex when they are in motion, causing the wax molecules to migrate to the surface. This forms as a protective barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen), water and the tire polymer. In the tire trade this is called blooming. When tires are parked for extended periods, blooming does not occur and ozone quickly attacks the tire polymer. With UV light and ozone working in concert, the degradation is accelerated, resulting in drying, discoloration and cracking.
To combat the negative effects of water, solvents and UV light on tires, the bike care industry has created tire dressings. These dressings condition the tire, restoring essential moisture. Tire dressings fall into two groups:
1. Liquid Silicone Oil Dressings – These penetrating-type silicones form a flexible protective shield on rubber. Liquid silicone seals small openings with a film to prevent penetration of moisture and dirt. Most silicone dressings leave a never-dry gloss film. There are many myths regarding silicone, specifically the negative long-term effects of silicone on rubber and vinyl. The fact is, silicone is an inert material. The benefit of silicone is its ability to easily penetrate the tire’s surface and not evaporate. Some silicone-based dressings contain petroleum distillates as a cleaning agent. Petroleum distillates are harmful to rubber and vinyl, and will cause rubber and vinyl to crack. If you decide to use a silicone oil tire dressing, make sure it does not contain a cleaner.
2. Water-Based Dressings – The water-based dressings do not contain silicone oils, petroleum distillates, waxes, or other dangerous solvents that can harm and dull the surface of rubber and vinyl over time. Most water-based dressings use a water-based silicone, which offers a non-greasy, satin finish. The best products contain UV blocking agents to help keep tires and rubber from cracking, fading and hardening.
To protect against ozone and UV damage, a stabilizer molecule called a competitive absorber is blended with the tire polymer. Competitive absorbers work by capturing and absorbing UV radiation and converting it to heat which is dissipated harmlessly. All tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, called carbon black. This is why all tires are black.
These absorbers are sacrificial; they expend themselves in performing their function of converting UV light to heat. However, as carbon black loses its ability to perform, it turns gray. This is one reason why black tires discolor as they age.
To protect from further ozone damage, tire manufacturers add a wax compound to their formulas. Tires flex when they are in motion, causing the wax molecules to migrate to the surface. This forms as a protective barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen), water and the tire polymer. In the tire trade this is called blooming. When tires are parked for extended periods, blooming does not occur and ozone quickly attacks the tire polymer. With UV light and ozone working in concert, the degradation is accelerated, resulting in drying, discoloration and cracking.
To combat the negative effects of water, solvents and UV light on tires, the bike care industry has created tire dressings. These dressings condition the tire, restoring essential moisture. Tire dressings fall into two groups:
1. Liquid Silicone Oil Dressings – These penetrating-type silicones form a flexible protective shield on rubber. Liquid silicone seals small openings with a film to prevent penetration of moisture and dirt. Most silicone dressings leave a never-dry gloss film. There are many myths regarding silicone, specifically the negative long-term effects of silicone on rubber and vinyl. The fact is, silicone is an inert material. The benefit of silicone is its ability to easily penetrate the tire’s surface and not evaporate. Some silicone-based dressings contain petroleum distillates as a cleaning agent. Petroleum distillates are harmful to rubber and vinyl, and will cause rubber and vinyl to crack. If you decide to use a silicone oil tire dressing, make sure it does not contain a cleaner.
2. Water-Based Dressings – The water-based dressings do not contain silicone oils, petroleum distillates, waxes, or other dangerous solvents that can harm and dull the surface of rubber and vinyl over time. Most water-based dressings use a water-based silicone, which offers a non-greasy, satin finish. The best products contain UV blocking agents to help keep tires and rubber from cracking, fading and hardening.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-17-14 at 11:29 AM.
02-17-14, 05:18 PM
#9
i second this.
with my UAS bags, i asked UAS on what they recommend i put on their bags to preserve them and they said "nothing". they said the rubber is meant to withstand being under the car at different temps, repel water, etc. this could just be a ploy to get more business down the line, or that there really isn't anything out there. most dressings may actually hurt the rubber.
with my UAS bags, i asked UAS on what they recommend i put on their bags to preserve them and they said "nothing". they said the rubber is meant to withstand being under the car at different temps, repel water, etc. this could just be a ploy to get more business down the line, or that there really isn't anything out there. most dressings may actually hurt the rubber.
02-17-14, 08:08 PM
#10
i second this.
with my UAS bags, i asked UAS on what they recommend i put on their bags to preserve them and they said "nothing". they said the rubber is meant to withstand being under the car at different temps, repel water, etc. this could just be a ploy to get more business down the line, or that there really isn't anything out there. most dressings may actually hurt the rubber.
with my UAS bags, i asked UAS on what they recommend i put on their bags to preserve them and they said "nothing". they said the rubber is meant to withstand being under the car at different temps, repel water, etc. this could just be a ploy to get more business down the line, or that there really isn't anything out there. most dressings may actually hurt the rubber.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-18-14 at 04:44 AM.
02-17-14, 09:40 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
I like Shin-Etsu grease for door seals, trunk seals, and these bladders, however, I despise any kind of silicon based product on the car's interior, that sticky, shiny look really cheapens the look of the interior of an LS400 - I avoid used cars that have been "Armor-Alled" on the inside, or on the tires, like the plague. Too much work to remove - reminds me of women and their heavy makeup - ugh! - Fresh and clean and no grease for me!
04-17-17, 03:58 PM
#12
Shin-Etsu Grease for LS430 air strut bladders?
Any updates on how Shin Etsu worked for the air strut bladders on LS430, if anyone tried?
I just got a 2005 LS430 UL with 78K miles and about to apply it to any rubber surface on the car (except for tires) - anything I should know (issues, dangers, best practices)?
Thanks a lot!
I just got a 2005 LS430 UL with 78K miles and about to apply it to any rubber surface on the car (except for tires) - anything I should know (issues, dangers, best practices)?
Thanks a lot!
04-18-17, 07:22 PM
#15
Racer
What I would do is simply keep the rubber in a cool, humid environment. Keep the entire shock assembly in a sealed plastic bag that is stored in a cool place.
I have one example. I recently purchased these 17" 2006 Camry SE wheels and tires for my parents 03' Sienna because I wanted something nicer than the stock 15" alloys which were clear coat chipping and looked horrible. To my amazement, this guy had this original set of wheels and tires with probably less than 5000 miles that were taken off sometime in 2007 and immediately wrapped up in these thick old school Discount tire plastic bags and put in the garage. FYI, the newer bags they give you now are about 3x thinner, probably as a cost cutting measure.
When I opened these bags up, I got the smells of brand new tires and a richness of rubber filled the garage, like I was in a tire shop with hundreds if fresh tires on the rack.
These tires not only had been preserved in these bags, but there was no signs of dryrot anywhere on the tire tread, doors or sidewalls. The tread blocks are still plenty pliable and the rubber is still elastic.
So what I would do is find some thick plastic bags and tie those shocks up tight in there to keep them as fresh as possible.
I have one example. I recently purchased these 17" 2006 Camry SE wheels and tires for my parents 03' Sienna because I wanted something nicer than the stock 15" alloys which were clear coat chipping and looked horrible. To my amazement, this guy had this original set of wheels and tires with probably less than 5000 miles that were taken off sometime in 2007 and immediately wrapped up in these thick old school Discount tire plastic bags and put in the garage. FYI, the newer bags they give you now are about 3x thinner, probably as a cost cutting measure.
When I opened these bags up, I got the smells of brand new tires and a richness of rubber filled the garage, like I was in a tire shop with hundreds if fresh tires on the rack.
These tires not only had been preserved in these bags, but there was no signs of dryrot anywhere on the tire tread, doors or sidewalls. The tread blocks are still plenty pliable and the rubber is still elastic.
So what I would do is find some thick plastic bags and tie those shocks up tight in there to keep them as fresh as possible.