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Rear sus work this weekend

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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 07:59 AM
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Default Rear sus work this weekend

Planning on doing the rear sway-bar poly bushings and megan camber kit mod this weekend. Anyone have the torque specs for the bar or LCA's? Thank you.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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if it didnt come on a spec sheet in the box for the parts i would go with german spec. GUDENTIGHT
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Aeok18109
if it didnt come on a spec sheet in the box for the parts i would go with german spec. GUDENTIGHT
Yeah, not so much as a scrap of paper in either box. Guess I'll use my calibrated torque arms again.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Aeok18109
if it didnt come on a spec sheet in the box for the parts i would go with german spec. GUDENTIGHT
That's hilarious 😂
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 01:19 PM
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Some of the nicest women hail from that village.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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lol quite funny indeed!

i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by timmy0tool
lol quite funny indeed!

i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
Oh, well I'll be working on a brake hoist where I can lift the entire car or just under the frame with the wheels hanging.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 01:54 PM
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the point is to not have the wheels hanging, but to have the wheels simulated to be on the ground. this means the suspension is loaded. if your hoist lifts the car from the body, you still have to load the suspension.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by timmy0tool
the point is to not have the wheels hanging, but to have the wheels simulated to be on the ground. this means the suspension is loaded. if your hoist lifts the car from the body, you still have to load the suspension.
Right, so then using this 'drive-on' type lift is ideal. The car is off the ground but supported under all 4 wheels. Is that what you would consider under a load?
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiroshi12
Right, so then using this 'drive-on' type lift is ideal. The car is off the ground but supported under all 4 wheels. Is that what you would consider under a load?
correct! a drive on lift will work!
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by timmy0tool
correct! a drive on lift will work!
Cool. Seems like a pretty straight forward job (except getting the bushing brackets mod'd to fit), but I'll take some photos anyway and post next week.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 06:52 PM
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Turns out my plan to use the "drive-on" lift was not the best for a few reasons: first, once the arm bolts were loosened on the wheel side they could not be removed due to the minimal clearance between the mounting surface and the rim. Next, the opposite end seemed to be binded up due to the car being under load (?) and wouldn't budge. I had to switch to a 4-post lift to finish the removal/installation process - with the rear wheels removed.

I got everything back together, put it on the ground and crawled under the car to torque everything down. I kept the adjustment at 0 (same length as factory arms) for now until I decide to upgrade the wheels to a bigger size. I found an empty parking lot and got sideways and ran her up to 100 mph on the hgwy with no issues.
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Last edited by Hiroshi12; Feb 8, 2014 at 07:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Going off of a previous post I bought the 5/8" Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings but they were way too small and barely went around the bar. When I got the factory ones out the only mark I found was a 20.0. I am assuming this is 20 mm? If it is 20mm then that would be 3 sizes up from 5/8! Seems too big, right? Maybe it's just a part#. Does anyone know, without a doubt, what the correct size is for a 98? Thanks.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:31 AM
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that's because the '98-00 have thicker rear sway bars than the '95-97.

'98-00 rear sways are ~20-21mm in diameter, and may or may not be solid (in comparison to earlier hollow bars).

I would try an energy susp. 13/16" bushing.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
that's because the '98-00 have thicker rear sway bars than the '95-97.

'98-00 rear sways are ~20-21mm in diameter, and may or may not be solid (in comparison to earlier hollow bars).

I would try an energy susp. 13/16" bushing.
Yeah, I think you're right; that would make it 20.5mm which should be right on. Unfortunately, mr. smart guy already painted the brackets so I won't be returning the 5/8" set. Oh well, at least they were inexpensive.
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