Greg5OH

This is on my 2000 in sig. 115k miles.
This morning i put the key in, and when i hit the brakes, everything shut off, radio, lights go very dim, telescoping wheel stopped moving. and resumed when i let off the brake.
Car was also slow cranking over.

No power steering drip, battery not very old.
Havent checked alternator output yet though.

Therye some sort of wire on the dirver side trunk hinge area that apparently becomes unplugged?

stephen18

I had this hapen to me when the battery died.. twice. And each time the same symptoms happened. Alt good, just the wife apparently likes to leave the lights on some how and it eventually shorts a cell in the battery.

At least in my cases it was a dead batt.

Boxcuta

I had this same problem a week ago. Mine turned out to be loose negative terminal and loose postive terminal. Check those and the wires bolted to them. Hope this helps.

Greg5OH

terminals are fine, just cleaned and regrounded everything to try to fix this issue. Battery is older for sure, and with twin compressors and two subs pulling from the original alternator, I wouldnt be surprised to ahve the battery die.
Sigh, just bought two batteries for my truck too

Im sure the alternator is too small, so the subs pull huge power directly from the battery, and being a traditional wet plate battery, non deep cycle. Those quick discharges definitely will limit its life span.

Going to pick up an AGM deep cycle battery and look into upgrading teh alternator at some point.

Boxcuta

That should help if not elminate the issue. Mine thankfully was bad grounds. When I was doing research for that issue I found that this was caused sometimes by weak batt or bad Alt. Keep us posted

LScowboyLS

measure the battery voltage with a multimeter with:

● car off
● car on, headlights on, at idle
● car on, headlights on, at 2000 rpm

- and report back those voltages here

you likely have a bad (weak) battery, but a bad battery connection, bad positive battery terminal (hidden corrosion under cable bolt), bad engine/body ground, a current drain, or a bad alternator are other possibilities

find the date code on the battery, if it is more than 4 years old, go ahead and replace the battery regardless

Greg5OH

was jsut out buying batteries for my truck, so I grabbed a deep cycle one for the lexus as well.
battery is 5 years old, conventional style, with 2000 w amps and 2 compressors pulling on it for the last 4 years.

75 bucks from costco. its not exactly the one for the lexus, I will probably have to extend the positive terminals a hair, but dimension wise its the same. I could get the proper 24f but id have to drive 20 mins and spend 120 on it, vs 75 from costco, with no question ask 1 year return and 3 year warranty.

LScowboyLS

basically any battery that has the positive terminal on the correct side will work

normally the cold cranking amps would be an issue for winter in Detroit, but these days you should be running one of the modern ~thinner at startup~ oils such as 0W-30 synthetic and that will crank in winter with pretty much any new battery

Greg5OH

I just changed the old oil to 5w30 synthetic, next time around will probably get 0w30. Not sure how much time shell see this winter though.
700 CCA btw