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Deleted one of mine. Happy with it. But I'll keep them until they fail. I can buy I don't know how many oil plugs for the $50 ($150 for OEM from a dealer). The ~50 rpm drop at stop signs doesn't bother me.
I see some wetness on the top of the splash guard when looking down into the engine bay on my 148k 99'. Most likely its this valve leaking. If I found a new genuine valve on eBay for $51, should I just get that and not be cheap? Or would the 14x1.5 bolt fix really not cause any weird NVH or vibrations/shuddering when at a light?
I think the previous owner either replaced this or did the bolt fix on my 97' w/ 298k, since I never had a leak issue. Although he did replace the alternator brushes before I bought the car so maybe he did it on my 97'
The valve opens when the PS pump is under load (hydraulic pressure) which allows air to circulate through the intake via the vacuum lines.
No electronics = No codes
I see some wetness on the top of the splash guard when looking down into the engine bay on my 148k 99'. Most likely its this valve leaking. If I found a new genuine valve on eBay for $51, should I just get that and not be cheap? Or would the 14x1.5 bolt fix really not cause any weird NVH or vibrations/shuddering when at a light?
I think the previous owner either replaced this or did the bolt fix on my 97' w/ 298k, since I never had a leak issue. Although he did replace the alternator brushes before I bought the car so maybe he did it on my 97'
You wont notice any difference or any vibrations if you remove the valve and plug the port. Just be aware you are opening Pandoras box as plugging is not always as easy as it sounds. The cheaply made 14x1.5 oil drain plug I bought from Autozone was not a precise fit so I had to do the job twice. 14x1.5 is not a commonly sold bolt size. I finally found one at Ace Hardware but I had to cut it down to size. I also used Permatex Pneumatic/Hydralic Sealant on the threads.
The cheaply made 14x1.5 oil drain plug I bought from Autozone was not a precise fit so I had to do the job twice. 14x1.5 is not a commonly sold bolt size. I finally found one at Ace Hardware but I had to cut it down to size. I also used Permatex Pneumatic/Hydralic Sealant on the threads.
The size is only "common" as an oil plug. When I first asked the rep at NAPA, they looked at the regular bolts and we quickly realized the valve used a M14-1.50 and they didn't have anything that size. I called another NAPA and the rep there immediately recognized it as a common oil plug size. So I used this one from NAPA and I originally kept the washer on it and it leaked, so I removed it and now it's sealed flush to the pump body. Hasn't leaked yet. But then, I can't seem to shake this code 12 issue that goes away after removing and replacing the entire ignition system, so I haven't put many miles on it.
Just remove the valve, knock off the plastic part, weld the hole shut (where the plastic part used to be) and re-install it. No leaks - no worries about size, fit, or function! And of course, remove the vacuum lines and plug the ports on the intake manifold and the air intake plenum (black plastic box on passenger side of the intake). Just did this (and replaced the 4 recommended O-rings in the power steering pump) on my 99 LS400 with 230k miles on it.
1st pic shows the valve welded shut and the 2nd pic shows what was removed. There are 5 O-rings (the 5th one was from between the plastic part and the metal part of the valve).
Part Numbers of Parts replaced:
90301-53007 (O-ring #1, as referenced in separate thread titled, How to fix powersteering leak on 98-2000 LS400's)
90301-18013 (O-ring #2, as referenced in separate thread)
90301-11016 (O-ring #3, as referenced in separate thread)
90301-19018 (O-ring for high pressure connection fitting)
44327-30030 (Gasket for pressure connection on pump)
Total Cost: $22.21
After looking a little further, I probably wouldn't have had to do anything with the idle up control valve, as it wasn't leaking into the engine (i.e. no white smoke). However, I didn't want to take a chance of having to go into it again for the case it leaked externally - so, I welded it shut (and the o-ring did look suspect when I broke the plastic - so I don't feel too bad about getting rid of it). I also don't detect any appreciable difference in the idle.
Last edited by GS4302001; 06-16-19 at 12:07 PM.
Reason: had swapped two part numbers... Also, left off a bit of info the first time.
Just remove the valve, knock off the plastic part, weld the hole shut (where the plastic part used to be) and re-install it. No leaks - no worries about size, fit, or function! And of course, remove the vacuum lines and plug the ports on the intake manifold and the air intake plenum (black plastic box on passenger side of the intake). Just did this (and replaced the 4 recommended O-rings in the power steering pump) on my 99 LS400 with 230k miles on it.
1st pic shows the valve welded shut and the 2nd pic shows what was removed. There are 5 O-rings (the 5th one was from between the plastic part and the metal part of the valve).
Part Numbers of Parts replaced:
90301-53007 (O-ring #1, as referenced in separate thread titled, How to fix powersteering leak on 98-2000 LS400's)
90301-18013 (O-ring #2, as referenced in separate thread)
90301-19018 (O-ring #3, as referenced in separate thread)
90301-11016 (O-ring for high pressure connection fitting)
44327-30030 (Gasket for pressure connection on pump)
Note: I did have the part numbers swapped in my post for the last two O-rings. I have since corrected it but, it shows up incorrect on my referenced post (on yours). If that makes any sense.
03-10-19, 11:05 PM
