Adding a sub to the factory sub? Anyone?
11-09-13, 07:55 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Adding a sub to the factory sub? Anyone?
I did a search on this topic but couldn't find anything in my quest. In any case, I wanted to ask if anyone here has ever added an aftermarket sub to the factory sub.
Here's my dilemma: I have a 1998 LS with the Nitchamchi system installed. I actually like the way the system sounds especially for a stock system. However, there are times when I wish the bass had just a lil more extra oomph (particularly at lower volumes). I'm not looking for showroom bass or "hear me 10 blocks away bass", but rather I just want to add enough bass to the system so that I can "feel" it a little more without having to turn up the entire system loud.
So I made a visit to a professional installer and spoke of my desires. He recommended that I add an additional sub to the current factory sub. He believes that wiring the car with a bass control **** for the secondary sub (which will be placed in the trunk by the way), should alleviate any concerns I have about the secondary bass over powering the stock system.
Has anyone ever done something like this? If so, how did it work out for you?
Here is the system he recommended:
-Alpine MRVM250 Mono Amp
-Alpine SWA10S4 10' subwoofer
-Pacc PACL C1 Level controller
(and of course the wiring)
Here's my dilemma: I have a 1998 LS with the Nitchamchi system installed. I actually like the way the system sounds especially for a stock system. However, there are times when I wish the bass had just a lil more extra oomph (particularly at lower volumes). I'm not looking for showroom bass or "hear me 10 blocks away bass", but rather I just want to add enough bass to the system so that I can "feel" it a little more without having to turn up the entire system loud.
So I made a visit to a professional installer and spoke of my desires. He recommended that I add an additional sub to the current factory sub. He believes that wiring the car with a bass control **** for the secondary sub (which will be placed in the trunk by the way), should alleviate any concerns I have about the secondary bass over powering the stock system.
Has anyone ever done something like this? If so, how did it work out for you?
Here is the system he recommended:
-Alpine MRVM250 Mono Amp
-Alpine SWA10S4 10' subwoofer
-Pacc PACL C1 Level controller
(and of course the wiring)
Last edited by Jlacck; 11-09-13 at 10:19 PM.
11-09-13, 09:00 PM
#2
I'm going to save you about $50 and labor by telling you, you can just buy another 8" subwoofer and drop it in place. You may need to create an adapter of sorts for the screws, but otherwise, most will fit and meet the power requirements from the stock amplifier.
My reccomendation? The Image Dynamics ID8 V3 in Dual 4-Ohm configuration.
My reccomendation? The Image Dynamics ID8 V3 in Dual 4-Ohm configuration.
11-09-13, 09:05 PM
#3
Of those who have audio, they mainly just add in a double din and external amp/sub. Reason being is when you change up to a double din etc you will no longer be able to use your factory amp/sub unless you get the beatsonic harness. The harness is a bit pricey so most just go external amp/sub. With the external sub/amp you will get more bass out of it with an enclose box itsel, but to get better bass throughout the car you can have a custom box made and port it through the cabin hole which is something I got done for mine.
11-09-13, 10:08 PM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
I'm going to save you about $50 and labor by telling you, you can just buy another 8" subwoofer and drop it in place. You may need to create an adapter of sorts for the screws, but otherwise, most will fit and meet the power requirements from the stock amplifier.
My reccomendation? The Image Dynamics ID8 V3 in Dual 4-Ohm configuration.
My reccomendation? The Image Dynamics ID8 V3 in Dual 4-Ohm configuration.
Nevermind, I get it. You're suggesting I replace the current sub?
11-09-13, 10:22 PM
#5
Replacing the stock sub with another 8" sub will do as well but the stock amp is not one that you can use to power a more higher end sub I believe the stock sub is about 40rms only. If you are keeping stock stereo then I would suggest as scope did and replace the stock sub for another 8". I myself don't like the free air as much, you will get better bass with a box
11-09-13, 11:10 PM
#6
Replacing the stock sub with another 8" sub will do as well but the stock amp is not one that you can use to power a more higher end sub I believe the stock sub is about 40rms only. If you are keeping stock stereo then I would suggest as scope did and replace the stock sub for another 8". I myself don't like the free air as much, you will get better bass with a box
Of course, most of the members here will go on for months about what to get, but it's really up to you. If you're looking for a new head unit, we can recommend some good stuff, but if you're looking for new hardware like amps and speakers, you may need to look elsewhere. CarAudio.com and DIY Mobile Audio are wonderful places to get a start on researching equipment.
11-09-13, 11:29 PM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
You know, I'm actually a fan of the stock system. Not saying its the best system ever, but the balance in the spectrum of the audio is what I actually like about the system. I thought about changing out the head unit and going for something more modern, but I don't like the way the aftermarket systems change the look of the dash. So, I told the dealer that I wanted to keep the stock system and even the stock sub, but I wanted just a little more bass I could feel out of the system particularly at lower volumes.
He explained to me adding another sub in addition to the stock, but also adding a dial **** for the new amp/sub, would allow me add or subtract as much bass as I like. He stated that the bass **** on the stereo head unit affects the bass on ALL the speakers rather than just the sub. So he believed that getting more power from the bass while keeping the stock unit would be best served by adding a second bass in a sealed enclosure placed in the trunk.
He originally recommended a JL Audio 8 inch sub. But I thought the bass sounded too muddy coming from that unit while demoing it in the shop. And after hearing the way the stock audio sounded in the car, he changed his recommendation to the Alpine 10 inch sub which by the way did sound a lot more clean and crisp. He thought it'd better match the sound I already had in the car.
In any case, I was just curious to know if having two different subs placed in two different locations would affect the sound? I don't know if I've ever heard of anyone having a sub in the rear deck, and one in the trunk.
He explained to me adding another sub in addition to the stock, but also adding a dial **** for the new amp/sub, would allow me add or subtract as much bass as I like. He stated that the bass **** on the stereo head unit affects the bass on ALL the speakers rather than just the sub. So he believed that getting more power from the bass while keeping the stock unit would be best served by adding a second bass in a sealed enclosure placed in the trunk.
He originally recommended a JL Audio 8 inch sub. But I thought the bass sounded too muddy coming from that unit while demoing it in the shop. And after hearing the way the stock audio sounded in the car, he changed his recommendation to the Alpine 10 inch sub which by the way did sound a lot more clean and crisp. He thought it'd better match the sound I already had in the car.
In any case, I was just curious to know if having two different subs placed in two different locations would affect the sound? I don't know if I've ever heard of anyone having a sub in the rear deck, and one in the trunk.
Last edited by Jlacck; 11-09-13 at 11:33 PM.
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11-09-13, 11:44 PM
#8
You know, I'm actually a fan of the stock system. Not saying its the best system ever, but the balance in the spectrum of the audio is what I actually like about the system. I thought about changing out the head unit and going for something more modern, but I don't like the way the aftermarket systems change the look of the dash. So, I told the dealer that I wanted to keep the stock system and even the stock sub, but I wanted just a little more bass I could feel out of the system particularly at lower volumes.
He explained to me adding another sub in addition to the stock, but also adding a dial **** for the new amp/sub, would allow me add or subtract as much bass as I like. He stated that the bass **** on the stereo head unit affects the bass on ALL the speakers rather than just the sub. So he believed that getting more power from the bass while keeping the stock unit would be best served by adding a second bass in a sealed enclosure placed in the trunk.
He originally recommended a JL Audio 8 inch sub. But I thought the bass sounded too muddy coming from that unit while demoing it in the shop. And after hearing the way the stock audio sounded in the car, he changed his recommendation to the Alpine 10 inch sub which by the way did sound a lot more clean and crisp. He thought it'd better match the sound I already had in the car.
In any case, I was just curious to know if having two different subs placed in two different locations would affect the sound? I don't know if I've ever heard of anyone having a sub in the rear deck, and one in the trunk.
He explained to me adding another sub in addition to the stock, but also adding a dial **** for the new amp/sub, would allow me add or subtract as much bass as I like. He stated that the bass **** on the stereo head unit affects the bass on ALL the speakers rather than just the sub. So he believed that getting more power from the bass while keeping the stock unit would be best served by adding a second bass in a sealed enclosure placed in the trunk.
He originally recommended a JL Audio 8 inch sub. But I thought the bass sounded too muddy coming from that unit while demoing it in the shop. And after hearing the way the stock audio sounded in the car, he changed his recommendation to the Alpine 10 inch sub which by the way did sound a lot more clean and crisp. He thought it'd better match the sound I already had in the car.
In any case, I was just curious to know if having two different subs placed in two different locations would affect the sound? I don't know if I've ever heard of anyone having a sub in the rear deck, and one in the trunk.
Now I'm no expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure having a subwoofer in different positions (like, one further away from you than the other) might create a sort of lag between the two. Like, one speaker will hit and then a few milliseconds later, the next. It won't be super noticeable but if you're the kind of person who pays a lot of attention, then it might be a problem.
Last edited by Sc0pe; 11-09-13 at 11:47 PM.
11-10-13, 07:32 AM
#9
Lead Lap
This particular Kenwood - a fairly low end unit without navigation or HD radio - has a dedicated menu controlled subwoofer output that was not used in this install. I'm no expert on this but I don't know why this subwoofer output couldn't be attached to a separate amp driving a subwoofer - either one in the rear deck or in the trunk.
I replaced the Nak head unit only due to it's balance control failing (again) and no one wanting to repair it this time. I was completely satisfied with the OEM Nak as it came from the factory - particularly after I had an aux-in professionally installed. With the bass control at barely two-thirds, it would vibrate the steering and driver seat on some songs at a fairly low volume and could cause serious pain if I didn't keep the volume down.
Last edited by Kansas; 11-10-13 at 07:41 AM.
11-10-13, 07:51 AM
#10
I have always wondered about this commonly held view since it is not true. Per my recent posts (one is https://www.clublexus.com/forums/8219167-post329.html ) about having the Nakamichi head unit in my 2000 LS400 (the same system the OP has) replaced by a Kenwood double-DIN DDX470, the original Nakamichi subwoofer and all the original Nakamichi speakers work fine. No interface harness was used - the installer tapped into the existing harness leading to the Nakamichi amplifier under the front passenger seat. No wires were cut and the install is easily reversible.
This particular Kenwood - a fairly low end unit without navigation or HD radio - has a dedicated menu controlled subwoofer output that was not used in this install. I'm no expert on this but I don't know why this subwoofer output couldn't be attached to a separate amp driving a subwoofer - either one in the rear deck or in the trunk.
I replaced the Nak head unit only due to it's balance control failing (again) and no one wanting to repair it this time. I was completely satisfied with the OEM Nak as it came from the factory - particularly after I had an aux-in professionally installed. With the bass control at barely two-thirds, it would vibrate the steering and driver seat on some songs at a fairly low volume and could cause serious pain if I didn't keep the volume down.
This particular Kenwood - a fairly low end unit without navigation or HD radio - has a dedicated menu controlled subwoofer output that was not used in this install. I'm no expert on this but I don't know why this subwoofer output couldn't be attached to a separate amp driving a subwoofer - either one in the rear deck or in the trunk.
I replaced the Nak head unit only due to it's balance control failing (again) and no one wanting to repair it this time. I was completely satisfied with the OEM Nak as it came from the factory - particularly after I had an aux-in professionally installed. With the bass control at barely two-thirds, it would vibrate the steering and driver seat on some songs at a fairly low volume and could cause serious pain if I didn't keep the volume down.
11-10-13, 09:10 AM
#11
Lead Lap
By any chance you know which wires your installer tapped into? I mean I'm sure you can make it all work but no one really want to mess and figure out when can just add an external sub/amp and get more bass out of it etc. By the way where you get your phone/gps mounts from? Look nice!!!
The Kenwood has two separate output systems - the typical RCA jacks for connecting to an aftermarket amp and a separate wiring loom for connecting to an OEM amp, etc. This separate wiring loom is on a connector that plugs into the back of the Kenwood. The installer simply attached the eight speaker wires (+ and - for each of the four speaker channels) on the Kenwood loom to the eight speaker wires leading to the Nakamichi amplifier. It's clear when looking at the Nak diagram and the Kenwood installation manual which wire colors on the Kenwood loom have to be attached to which wire colors on the connector leading to the Nakamichi amp.
Edit: The installer would have had to also connect the Blue/White amp turn-on wire on the Kenwood loom to the Nakamichi amp turn-on connector. I'm assuming that it is the "AMP+" (PNK/BLU) on the Nakamichi amp diagram but it could be determined by testing.
More information about my GPS and phone mounts are in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...lan-nokia.html
The Kenwood goes a long way to making my old LS400 seem more modern with many of the features of the Toyota Entune and Lexus Enform systems: control of music stored on USB or iPod, Pandora, SiriusXM, 3.5mm aux-in, DVD video, backup camera input, outputs for installing video screens for rear seat passengers, an available remote control for only about $20 and on and on.
Here is a thread about how I use the iBolt Dock n Drive Android app to emulate most of other features currently available on Lexus Enform: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...k-n-drive.html One of my co-workers calls me a "Geezer Gadget Freak".
Last edited by Kansas; 11-10-13 at 12:49 PM.
11-11-13, 08:54 AM
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
Sooooo... based off what i'm reading here, there seems to be a few options for my situation:
On one hand, some of you have said its better to just replace the subwoofer in the deck with a better sub... I'm assuming this means removing the sub in the back deck and just placing a sub in the trunk.
Other posts seem to hint that maybe its possible to just rewire the system so that we can add a separate amp to power the stock sub. I was told that the current stock sub is only getting maybe 20 or so watts of power. So perhaps adding a separate amp for that sub can give me the little bit of extra power I need. Any thoughts on this?
On one hand, some of you have said its better to just replace the subwoofer in the deck with a better sub... I'm assuming this means removing the sub in the back deck and just placing a sub in the trunk.
Other posts seem to hint that maybe its possible to just rewire the system so that we can add a separate amp to power the stock sub. I was told that the current stock sub is only getting maybe 20 or so watts of power. So perhaps adding a separate amp for that sub can give me the little bit of extra power I need. Any thoughts on this?
Last edited by Jlacck; 11-11-13 at 01:44 PM.
11-11-13, 09:06 AM
#14
Adding a more rms amp will probably blow that stock you have. I think the stock sub is only rated between 20-40 rms. but if you know an installer who can install/wire up how Kansas stated then you can just use your stock sub/amp and just tune from your deck
