dhhd

I have the common trunk problem with my LS 400 where it will not latch closed. I have searched the forums but haven't found much other than to check the wiring. Wiring is good, I checked continuity throughout the wiring and all checks out good. The light blue and the white/black wire at the trunk popper switch have continuity to the black wire at the lock. Then I moved the lead to the connector on the trunk lid with the white and black wire and got full continuity. The other wire in the two pin connector is green/red and has continuity only for a one second time interval when the switch is activated. The fuses are good and so is the switch by the dashboard valet lockout. I need to check the wire at the striker. But I'm thinking my lock solenoid is bad. What do you think? Is fuses are good, switch activates the relay to pop and I get communication in the wiring I feel like the solenoid on the lock is bad. Is there a way to test them? I had a 1997 parts car so i have an extra lock assy. Ok, now here is where things get funny. The vehicle is a 1995 LS 400, the doors are from a 1997 model. The Valet lockout key switch on the lower dash is the 1997 panel yet still pops the relay and I'm only using this because my 1995 key doesnt turn the 1995 trunk valet lock. The 1997 key works in the doors but only creates action of the locks when used in the passenger door. When using the drivers door you can hear the locks electronically moving but its not making the car door lock or unlock. The car starts every time fine with a 1995 key given that is a 1995 car but the trunk will not open or close with the 1995 key because I think it's the valet key. When I removed the lock cylinder in the trunk, I found that the key is not grabbing the last/deepest tumbler in the cylinder. Therefore this is confirming my suspicions of it being a valet key. If buy a new 1995 master key, and have it cut to eliminate the trunk lock cylinder problem will I be stuck with a communication issue of the two different keys? I feel that with the correct 1995 key I can go back to using the 1995 keyed trunk lockout, it will also correct the problem I'm having with the trunk cylinder tumblers not fully seating to the key. Thanks in advance! My 3 year build on this is almost done! I just need o tie up these loose ends and put up some pics! Sorry its such a long post. Trying to be thorough and I did search and diag it as much as j could've already.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Not familiar with the wiring. Regarding the master key, the master key has a ridge at the tip, this is a pic of my master and valet key. So if you only have a valet key, you'll need to order a key so that it can be cut as a master type. This also applies to programming new remotes. A valet key will not be acceptable to get into the FOB program mode.

dhhd

Ok thanks RA40, that's gotta be the reason why the key doesn't turn the last tumbler in the lock cylinder

dhhd

Update: I ordered a few extra master keys and will have them cut. My question would be is can I have the two keys (95 & 97) programmed to have one work for the drivers and passenger doors, and the other work for the ignition, glove box, trunk and trunk valet lockout? Will the mpx body control module allow for for multiple keys to be programmed and a fob remote too? I really hope that someone can provide insight to the functions of the factory system. Thanks