ItsMiles

iTrader: (1)

So I tried clearing up the headlights on my '99...

I used Sylvania's restoration kit. It uses 400 grit, 1000 grit, and 2000 grit sandpaper... After wet sanding with all 3 levels of sandpaper and the included polishing compound. It still came up hazy. So I also used the meguiar's plastix polisher, and the passenger side still didn't come out right... Any help guys?

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psca204c43.mp4

Here's a quick video... Sorry video isn't great

MoparMan

I just restored some lights, and I worked my way up from 240. 3M has a resto kit I swear by with a nice drill. But doing it by hand if you know body work, you can transfer that to plastic. I went 240, 300, 400, 600, 800, 2000 wet sand, and then polished twice. The lights I did are smooth as now.

valex

I have done mine a while ago 800, 1000, 2000 by hand and then high speed buffer with polishing compound and a white pad ( white is on the denser/harder side). And then Meguires PlastX I think finishing with a buffer is the key, you won't reach same results doing it by hand. There is no substitute for wet sand paper and hand for initial stages, though. Don't try any power tools for sanding, you may mess the headlights beyond repair.

Kansas

You said that you used "all 3 levels of sandpaper and the included polishing compound" but did you then apply the clear coat from the bottle using the included microfiber cloth? The final step is what fully clears the lenses. After you apply the clear coat, wait until it dries before touching the lenses or driving the car - can take several hours. I didn't drive my car a couple of days to be sure and kept the car in a closed garage.

These kits should be used in a dust-free environment. I wouldn't use one outside and only in a closed garage if you want perfect results.

You might consider starting over. Restoring headlight lenses is a learned skill. The first time I did it, the lenses didn't come out perfect - maybe because I did it outside on a windy day with crap blowing around. I don't think there is a limit on how many times lenses can be refinished with a Sylvania or similar kit like the Crystal View kit. The Sylvania kit is the best I've used.

I didn't find Plastx to work very well on headlight lenses but it's fine for polishing other plastic parts.

Dranom

iTrader: (7)

Take it to a bodyshop and Let them buff it to make it clear again then shoot it with clear coat

ItsMiles

iTrader: (1)

No actually, I didn't use the clear coat... I didn't use it because since the headlights didn't come out as clear as I thought they would be, I didn't want to use the clear coat knowing that I'd want to do it again.

So the clear coat included will really clean it up?

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

That is so weird. How did you sand?

YouTube some vids....I can tell you did something wrong. Sorry.

I've taken some somewhat beat headlights and turned them around with just 1500/2000 and only PlastX on an IS300

Kansas

Yes, you should have used the clear coat. The lenses can look pretty awful before that final step. But now the lenses are contaminated by the Plastx ... I think you should sand again with the 2000 sandpaper, use more polishing compound, clean the lenses per the instructions and then apply the clearcoat. You only get one chance to apply the clearcoat. Don't be tempted to touch it up.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I just did my high beams on my SC. I wet sanded with 600,1000,1500,2000,2500,3000 and then polished them with Mother's Aluminum polish. They look brand new, but I would highly recommend having a clear coat put on afterwards. I'll post up some pics here in a few.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

you cannot use your hand to polish the lights. only hand sand then you need a machine with a foam pad to really cut the scratches away. a drill with a "powerball" or similar attachment works. as for compound, plastix works but like usoff89 said, the mother's mag and aluminum polish works great on headlights! i also do my tails with them as well (no sanding though).

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

Timmy, I sanded mine by hand and always have. When I'm done the finish is smooth with NO scratches at all. Here's some pics of the high beams on my SC.

Kansas

I most certainly disagree. There is no need to "cut the scratches away" with a power tool - that only invites damage to the lenses and surrounding bodywork. The most sensitive tools you have are your fingertips. Think of why paint on Rolls Royce cars have always been hand wet sanded between coats. The magic is in your fingertips - those who know how can feel the slightest imperfection through their fingertips when wet sanding headlight lenses or automotive lacquer.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I agree! I've wet sanded a lot of different things including paint and polished wheels with my bare hands and never had any problems

MoparMan

Same here. I work paint and body as part of my business and the risk is greater with power tools. Plus when its done its a greater feeling knowing you did it with your bare hands

bdan

I just used toothpaste + microfiber + elbow grease. Never once occur to me to seal it in a non windy, dust free environment.

Club Lexus, inspiring basic common sense.