yes, first get all wiring back to at least as good as new

if you need connectors, go to the junkyard and roam around until you find some in great shape, then get out your soldering station and your heat shrink tubing

 

90980-11246
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/90980-11246.html

 

OKAY, to get to the bottom of the pinched cam sensor wire problem I went ahead and took it completely out.
Now that I have it out I see where it rubbed through, but it never went through the actual wires that seem
to matter. These being the RED and YELLOW wires, but it did mess up the "random" wiring that's wrapped
around it that appears to be a ground? but unwrapping it its connected to nothing?
Thought this was weird. Anyways either the sensor is bad or the wiring is.

 

also how can I go about testing the sensor, is there a way to Ohm it out or whatever to show
some kind of specs on it? Some information would be greatly appreciated.

 

here are the applicable service manual pages for testing the camshaft position sensors

 

So i have the cam sensor out and using the specs given to test/ohm out the sensor it keeps
reading O.L. On all settings it doesnt change, now does this mean my sensor is bad? I havent tested
the other sides cam sensor to see if that gets a reading yet seeing as it should since i dont have a
check engine code for it.

Ive been told by other techs if its still magnetic its good and whatever else, but if im not getting a reading
at all what does this mean?

 

It depends on the RANGE of the meter scale you are using.
According to the above test procedure, the resistance of the sensor coil could be as high as 1645 Ω .
If you are using a low resistance range, it may indeed show an open (indicated by "OL").
You need to use a range which has a max of 2 KΩ (which is 2000 Ω).
Also, make sure that the meter is reading near zero Ω when the probe tips are touched together, since you will get an open ("OL") reading if either probe is open or its banana plug is not making contact in its jack.

 

Heres some ECU pics, the brand on them im not too sure about since it wasnt as listed but
it had the 105c rating

 

good advice

if your multimeter is questionable, the have an Equus Innova at Wal-Mart for $23 that is great!

 

those NRWA capacitors are completely the wrong type - none of them are low ESR!

and I even spotted a Lelon piece of crap cap.

without low ESR capacitors, I am amazed that your Lexus even runs at all!

that needs to fixed with the correct type ASAP!

 

Well its still reading open("OL") on all settings with 2 different voltmeters and this is also the wire i said was pinched so may not see the damage since the coating didnt wear through
but the wires themselves might be damaged. That or the sensor is completely dead.

 

you need to find someone who is good at automotive wiring repair ( if he own heat shrink tubing, then that's your man!) and have him repair the damaged place in the wires and then retest with the multimeter

you can also just remove the cam sensor and test it off of the car

 

From your description, the Hall effect sensor coil is open. Of course, it could also be the wires or terminals in the connector. Follow LScowboy's advice to test it definitively.

 

Great just what i wanted to hear about my ECU

on the brightside im pretty sure the coil is bad, i tested the other sides and it ohm'd out
in the 1100's, ill probably just pick up a few out of the junkyard and that should fix my
code 13 problem.

 

Not to downplay the very good suggestions from previous responders, but code 13 also could be a bad igniter. Have not heard of one of these going bad, but ...

Hope it is only the coil! Good luck diagnosing.