914lps

I need to add a 12 volt power port in my car.

My two standard cigarette outlets just can't handle the stuff I am plugging in.


Both stock lighter sockets get their power from the same fuse, and well I have been blowing it.
Especially on those road trips...

I plug in the cell phone, speaker hands free for phone, GPS, and so on ( especially with passengers plugging in their stuff), and well, this car was not made for all this stuff.

I would like to have the outlet somewhere around the center counsel, or almost any place on the back floor, or passenger area.

Any idea on an easy to tap into 12 volt + line? I have fuse holders so I can fuse it. And it needs to handle at least a 20 amp draw from what I plug in.

Trying not to run a line though the firewall from the battery. I know that is the best way to do it... But I'm going for the easer the better.

I thank you all.

Kansas

I know of several ways. Tap into a wire at the ignition switch - I had an audio shop do that in my 2000 LS back in 2003 when I was not in the mood to wiggle under the dash ... took him maybe 10 minutes.

Use a simple spade into a fuse receptacle in the underdash fuse box and then plug a compatible connector attached to a wire with an in-line fuse into it - that's what a Cingular (now AT&T) phone system installer did on my first LS400 in 1990.

Use one or more ATM fuse taps into the underdash fuse box. I used a Bussman ATM "add-a-circuit" 10A fuse tap - purchased at Advance Auto - into the engine compartment fuse box of our new Prius wagon a few weels ago when installing a WebElectric DRL kit. Makes for a clean, easy install.

Tapping into the underdash fuse box may require cutting the fuse box cover or leaving it off to provide clearance.

914lps

I thank you for your response. But again looking for easy fix and trying to avoid going though fire wall. So taping under-hood fuse box is not the fix I am looking for. As that is harder then simply attaching at the Battery.

As for attaching at inside fuse box. Yes that is an option, but again not that easy or clean, as to do it right and route the wire over to the center council or back seat area, gets into a lot of work.

Kansas

I was not suggesting that you connect to the engine compartment fuse box although going through the firewall is not all that hard. Was only telling you about the Bussman add-a-circuit I used on our Prius. You don't have many choices if you want to stay inside the car - underdash fuse box, ignition switch, existing wires in the accessory/lighter circuit. Connecting to the underdash fuse box is the most common method used by professional installers.

And it is not difficult to do some minor assembly to route wires underneath the center console to the back seat or into the console box. The wood console panel, for example, pops out easily - got 10 seconds? There are plenty of how-to instructions on this forum including some with photos that I have provided.

914lps

10 seconds... Not that easy or fast.

I know how to remove the stereo AC controls so I know how to pop the wood trim. But it is a lot more then 10 seconds.

And one mans easy is another mans hard.

Again, I am trying to avoid as much routing and removing of stuff that I can..

And simply saying going though the firewall is not hard dose not make it so.

You have to either find a good place to push another wire though an existing grommet, or drill a hole in a safe place, add a grommet, and seal it. And the location has to work as a good location from both sides. That can take time to find. And you can have to remove stuff under the dash, and for some of us old folks, it is not so easy to get under the dash, etc...

As for you "NOT" saying to tap the under hood fuse box... Well you did say "use one or more ...".

Silly me, I thought you saying Use... Meant you were suggesting to use something.... As in taking action or doing it... I did not understand that Use meant "I'm telling a story....."

Like I said, thank you for trying to help... But..

Simply throwing out ways to make a connection... Does not mean they answer the most important part of my posting... Like the easy part.

And yes, I am cranky today.....

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

are you sure you have the right rated fuse in there? if you are drawing that much current to blow the fuse, then it may be time to consider a direct connection to the battery itself, though i know you voiced that it's not what you want. as kansas stated, you are very limited if you desire to stay within the cabin.

914lps

Yes it is the right rated fuse.

But both outlets are connected to it, and more and more stuff is getting plunged into it.

Yes, I do need another line to plug into!

This is why I am posting.

I want to have another 12 volt outlet that is not fused by the same fuse the other two are connected to.

So I am trying to find out if there is a line that is easy to tap so I do not have to run one myself from the battery and though the firewall.

I apologize to all for not making this clear... I really thought I had.....

Kansas

I can only suggest that you ask a car audio shop to provide a solution. There are no magic answers and no secret power sources running through your interior. What seems difficult to you will be easy for a professional installer as it would be for many members of this forum who don't mind or even like doing D.I.Y. projects.

According to your profile, you registered on this forum on XMAS day of 2004 yet you have posted only four times before today. Four posts in 8 1/2 years? There is nothing wrong in not being "into" cars - most people aren't.

So drop by a car audio shop and let them fix you up. If, however, you would like to learn, there are plenty of people here who will help you.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Many of the current devices that run off USB power is 5V and 500mA. More than sufficient for ~4 devices off the circuit if it is 2.5A being conservative. For handheld devices, phone, GPS, MP3 players a 20A line is excessive. 5A, 7.5A or even 10A should get the job done for a multitude of handheld devices. I also would suggest talking with a good audio installer about what you need to power and go from there.

914lps

I am more active then you think. I read post but do not always respond.

As for no magic and wanting to learn etc.. Gee there is no magic.. I never knew that...

And one does not learn with out asking questions. I asked a question.

As for those helping. Not a one when referencing a wire to try to tape gave any identifying information on finding that wire, or reference DIY link.

Most responses where post that gave no helpful information or advise. And saying it is easy for a pro installer to do and then suggesting it would be easy for me is well just silly.

I know how to run wires, and fuse the lines, and take the insides apart, I am trying to avoid that.

So I simple was trying to find out if there was an easy wire to tap into.

Apparently the answer to that is "Unfortunately there is no easy wire to tap into". "You are stuck running a new line fro the engine compartment, or having it done for you"... However no one could simply say that.

And yes, I am complaining about responses that are well intended, but not helpful...

And apparently something is wrong with me for not posting more, so as I am not equal to those more active posters I well ask you all to forgive me and I will try not to let the door hit me in my A$$ on the way out.

Note to Moderator, feel free to close this thread as I am not going to get any useful responses and apparently I am not worthy of this forum anyway....

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

Don't believe anyone commented on your lack of posts being a bad thing, merely an indicator of your activity.

That being said, your initial post was unclear, and made it somewhat difficult to ascertain what exactly it was you are trying to accomplish.

How much load are you trying to pull on your auxiliary circuit? You may be able to tap into something like seat heaters or whatever that's already there, but then you would need to be very careful not to use the seat heaters with devices plugged in as you would overload the circuit and blow the fuse.

Best way is to really just pull another dedicated line. If your car doesn't have seat heaters or air suspension, you can tape the fuses for those from the fusebox since they won't be in use.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

There is nothing wrong in asking and we try to help as we can. Not knowing the exact nature of the device and power requirements leaves us guessing. Kansas is left in a similar position to guess what you need.

As PD mentioned there are lines within the car that have ample headroom to power various devices. Not knowing other than your request for 20A leaves me thinking you need to power a rather hungry device besides phones, GPS, etc.

Does it need to be a switched line or hot? What do you need to supply power to?

914lps

Sounds like a negative remark to me...

Seat heaters... Why didn't I think of that... Oh, what, my car does not have them......

Mod... Close please I will not be back.

My first post was clear. I need to run another 12 volt power line. I made it clear. No one asked about the amp draw I wanted from the "new" line, till late in the game. I would have stated 15 to 20. Does it matter what I'm plugging in if I have clearly stating that stuff is blowing the fuse, so I need another line.. And bla bla bla....

And not one person has said something like "do not know if it has the power you are looking for, but have you thought about the power going to the power seats if you have them. The wire color is such and such and is located under the seat......"

So all of these responses and not one giving info on any possible wire, were it is and how to ID it....

What I'm not into is this forum... And what I am getting instead of real help...

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

take it however you wish. He is remarking on a fact, not stating anything specifically negative or insulting.

I don't recall you stating that you didn't have seat heaters, so there's absolutely no reason for you to have an attitude.

You come in giving us minimal information and expect some kind of magic answer whereby we magically know the type of lead you need (switched vs. always hot) and how much you need. Nobody wants to give you incorrect information and it's hard to give specifics when you don't even go as so far as to give us the YEAR OF YOUR CAR.

If you had asked us which circuit you wanted information for, as well as the year/market of your car, and the required info (ie- memory/no memory, etc...) and a less hostile attitude you may have gotten the response you wished for. If you try again, you still may.

I will close in 24 hours if OP does not respond.