Size matters! - let's put a BIG oil filter on our LS!
09-16-15, 09:47 PM
#226
Intermediate
Larger oil filters
I purchased 3 PUZ P282 oil filters on ebay for $3 each (Chinese)... In Australia, the common filter is RYCO, and a filter for a 1UZ is about $14... the longer one (4.5") was $26 ! ! !... So I thought I'll be the dummy and bought a fewPUZ's. I pulled one apart thinking it would be junk... Its not, Ive seen all the clips of most of the filters pulled apart and the PUZ I hate to say is dam good quality. It has the standard rubber anti back flow thingy, a spring loaded pressure relief valve and another spring loaded valve closes when the engine stops. The media was firmly set in place and whilst I have no idea of its micron size it looked A-O-K to me. The media stretched out was 1200mm x 85mm (47"x3 3/8").... As much as I hate using Chinese anything, I feel $26 for a garden variety filter is a blatant rip off so I'm gunna use the PUZ .
Ive noticed some guys say no point using a bigger filter. Well as I see it, the larger the filter, the less likely the relief valve will open at higher revs. The bigger the filter, the more oil flows thru the media and not thru the valve. I'd like to use a bigger filter still as the stock filter is no bigger than the filter on my SV650 motorcycle. To me, the Std filter is WAAAAAY too small and probably the only time the relief valve isnt open is at idle or low revs. Seeing the stock filter not much bigger than my 650cc bike, common sense tells me to GET A BIGGER ONE.....
Ive noticed some guys say no point using a bigger filter. Well as I see it, the larger the filter, the less likely the relief valve will open at higher revs. The bigger the filter, the more oil flows thru the media and not thru the valve. I'd like to use a bigger filter still as the stock filter is no bigger than the filter on my SV650 motorcycle. To me, the Std filter is WAAAAAY too small and probably the only time the relief valve isnt open is at idle or low revs. Seeing the stock filter not much bigger than my 650cc bike, common sense tells me to GET A BIGGER ONE.....
09-17-15, 07:59 AM
#227
Intermediate
i Run Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything i own. It is the #1 rated oil in the world. Amsoil use to be the best but Mobil 1 passed them a few years back. LS i usually agree with everything you say. I follow your posts like they are scripture but i have to disagree with you on this one. I personally cant stand fram anything. I have done alot of research on fram and they have had several lawsuits due to their faulty filters.
11-01-15, 07:51 PM
#228
^^^ This is actually true, I know of a large number of cars which run standard filters and basic oil and last for hundreds of thousands of miles without out issue... but that is a matter of being 110% on top of the routine maintenance more than anything else.
01-07-16, 02:17 PM
#229
also experienced leak
01-07-16, 09:57 PM
#230
I usually use my hands only and make it as tight as I can.
Removal I use a craftsman universal oil filter wrench
01-08-16, 07:13 AM
#231
been working on cars for over 30 years, and I always tighten it by hand - never had a filter leak oil on me until this one. It was a very small drip. After noticing the leak, I just tightened it a bit more using a rubber strap wrench
01-08-16, 06:29 PM
#232
Lexus Champion
Use AST TOOL who offers proper size filter cap wrench and not some strap to measure 3/4 turn and allow proper fit and seal.
AST TOOL also offers a no-spill screw in oil funnel for our LS400.
01-09-16, 09:32 PM
#234
Lexus Champion
;
NOTICE
1.) LUBRICATE FILTER RUBBER GASKET SURFACE WITH ENGINE OIL.
2.) TIGHTEN FILTER UNTIL THE GASKET CONTACTS THE SEAT OF FILTER MOUNTING. THEN USING SST (the AST TOOL oil cap filter wrench is the SST!) GIVE IT ADDITIONAL 3/4 TURN TO SEAT THE FILTER.
3.) AFTER ADDING THE OIL RUN THE ENGINE FOR 3 MINUTES AND CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Toyota/ Denso recommendations for tightening their oil filter...3/4 turn to seat after gasket contacts the seat of filter mounting... Seems straightforward...
AST TOOL P.N. TOY 730 is correct 73 mm oil filter cap wrench with 14 flats....fits the following model/year engines.
1990 - 1991 Lexus - ES 250<br/> 1992 - 2003 Lexus - ES 300<br/> 2013 - 2013 Lexus - ES 300h<br/> 2004 - 2006 Lexus - ES 330<br/> 1993 - 2005 Lexus - GS 300<br/> 1998 - 2000 Lexus - GS 400<br/> 2001 - 2004 Lexus - GS 430<br/> 2004 - 2009 Lexus - GX 470<br/> 2001 - 2005 Lexus - IS 300<br/> 1990 - 2000 Lexus - LS 400<br/> 2001 - 2006 Lexus - LS 430<br/> 1996 - 1997 Lexus - LX 450<br/> 1998 - 2007 Lexus - LX 470<br/> 1999 - 2003 Lexus - RX 300<br/> 2004 - 2006 Lexus - RX 330<br/> 2006 - 2008 Lexus
01-10-16, 06:41 AM
#235
that 3/4 of a turn is easily done with ur hand..how long have u been doing oil changes? 35 years for me! never once have i used a wrench. obviously there are space limitations,or a canister style filter that might require the use of a tool,but the Ls isnt one of them
05-25-17, 04:22 PM
#236
Driver
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: new york
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I've been using the fram XG8A (ultra synthetic version of ph8A) on my 2001 LS430, 2004 Sienna, and my bro in law uses it on his 2005 GX470. I get them on ebay for $4 each on ebay in lots of 6.
05-25-17, 09:50 PM
#237
Lexus Champion
Best protection:
1. Use a remote adapter where the filter installs
2. Split the line, using hydraulic hose, AN etc.
3. Run 1 line to a remote base with your normal filter of choice
4. Run the other line to a commercial truck etc. bypass filter
5. "T" both return lines together
6. End them at the remote adapter inlet back to the main gallery
What does this do?
The original filter not only has limited volume and pressure capacity (before the bypass opens), but the media itself is too coarse and doesn't stop really small particles.
The commercial filter only filters a small percentage of the oil (through an internal restriction) but has really fine media which does a much better job than the OEM filter.
Summary: the OEM filter does the usual job, while the commercial filter eventually filters all of the oil after several passes.
1. Use a remote adapter where the filter installs
2. Split the line, using hydraulic hose, AN etc.
3. Run 1 line to a remote base with your normal filter of choice
4. Run the other line to a commercial truck etc. bypass filter
5. "T" both return lines together
6. End them at the remote adapter inlet back to the main gallery
What does this do?
The original filter not only has limited volume and pressure capacity (before the bypass opens), but the media itself is too coarse and doesn't stop really small particles.
The commercial filter only filters a small percentage of the oil (through an internal restriction) but has really fine media which does a much better job than the OEM filter.
Summary: the OEM filter does the usual job, while the commercial filter eventually filters all of the oil after several passes.
Am curious how such a configuration would affect initial oil flow at start up...the oil ines drain back into the sump?
Extra parts to be sure...does this present reliability issues?
05-26-17, 01:07 PM
#238
Best protection:
1. Use a remote adapter where the filter installs
2. Split the line, using hydraulic hose, AN etc.
3. Run 1 line to a remote base with your normal filter of choice
4. Run the other line to a commercial truck etc. bypass filter
5. "T" both return lines together
6. End them at the remote adapter inlet back to the main gallery
What does this do?
The original filter not only has limited volume and pressure capacity (before the bypass opens), but the media itself is too coarse and doesn't stop really small particles.
The commercial filter only filters a small percentage of the oil (through an internal restriction) but has really fine media which does a much better job than the OEM filter.
Summary: the OEM filter does the usual job, while the commercial filter eventually filters all of the oil after several passes.
1. Use a remote adapter where the filter installs
2. Split the line, using hydraulic hose, AN etc.
3. Run 1 line to a remote base with your normal filter of choice
4. Run the other line to a commercial truck etc. bypass filter
5. "T" both return lines together
6. End them at the remote adapter inlet back to the main gallery
What does this do?
The original filter not only has limited volume and pressure capacity (before the bypass opens), but the media itself is too coarse and doesn't stop really small particles.
The commercial filter only filters a small percentage of the oil (through an internal restriction) but has really fine media which does a much better job than the OEM filter.
Summary: the OEM filter does the usual job, while the commercial filter eventually filters all of the oil after several passes.
Where exactly are you getting your information for "coarse" media (to what micron are we speaking here?) and "limited pressure capacity"?
A truck bypass filter, regardless of its filtering prowess, is allowing a contamination event to score our priceless cylinder head only cam saddles, you know, the ones with .0008" clearances?
Full-flow Or Die
Colin ; )
05-30-17, 07:37 AM
#240
Lead Lap
The best kind of oil is the one that is changed frequently (and meets engine required spec). Period.
all the other fluff is just to extend service life.
all the other fluff is just to extend service life.
If 5 brands of oil all have API SN spec (currently the highest) how can you say one brand is better than the other ?... Like I said, Sydney taxi's run dino oil, dino filters, monthly OCI ... 6 cylinder Fords easily run one million miles. so... all this talk about using the best oil in the world is to an extent, alot of hot air.