Does this sound like a bad starter?
04-10-13, 05:21 AM
#16
my car went back to the shop for 2 weeks and just sat there, mechanic said it started every time so he couldn't check it. I picked it up, and today it won't start. I'm lost on what to do. Someone told me to put my finger on the starter relay and have someone turn the key, I feel a click, so I'm assuming power is getting to the relay, but I don't know what to do next
04-10-13, 06:51 AM
#17
Lexus Champion
you need to find a good mechanic! - someone who has done a lot of work on Lexus - it could be the the starter solenoid or the safety switch as yamae explained, have you done a really good job cleaning the battery terminals and inspecting the body to engine grounds? - have you replaced the + side terminal with the real Toyota one? (just unbolt the last 2 inches at end of cable near battery and take to Toyota dealership - about $15) - those things can be done without a mechanic!
04-10-13, 07:48 AM
#19
Moderator
I now understand that your brain is biased only to the mechanical side. To solve electric related problems, you definitely need to measure the voltage of related points. Why don't you use a volt meter at least?
If you don't have any, it would be a good opportunity for you to buy one now. It is just a small money compared to spending big $ for the starter motor.
If you don't have any, it would be a good opportunity for you to buy one now. It is just a small money compared to spending big $ for the starter motor.
04-10-13, 06:58 PM
#20
Hi fellas. I am having the same problem with my 99LS. It will usually give me the click and no start. This Sunday for some reason there was no click and no start. Keep in mind, new alternator, positive battery post, and battery. I also hear a click coming from under the shifter when I press the brake(Seems like that just started happening). Does anyone think the click I hear from under the shifter has something to do with this problem? The problem also seems to happen when my fuel gauge goes below 1/4 tank. My cousin has a 99 GS400 and had a similar problem and swears its the starter. My cousins ride had nearly 200,000 miles when it happened to him, my LS has less that 130,000. I have a black LS same year model previously that I totalled with 160,000 and never had that problem. Lost fellas, please help us
10-19-17, 01:57 PM
#21
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That must be caused by the neutral start switch 8454030270 attached to the AT unit, I bet. This switch is both used for the Gen1 and the Gen2.
It detects the shift positions. As the car ages, it begins to show intermittent no connection problems. The aged electrical grease inside loses the capability of a good electrical connection and shows intermittent no connection problem especially when cold because the grease looses the flexibility. Look at the photo below. This is the inside of the switch. The lower part is after the grease was wiped off.
The most common and simple symptom is the no indication of the shift position at the cluster. The most serious one is the no start of the engine probably as you are experiencing now. The schematic below may help you to understand why so. Without closing the contact of the the neutral (start) switch, the starter relay cannot be driven and causes no start at all.
Once the problem happens and the adjustment is not effective, dealers usually replace the whole neutral start switch unit asking you to pay more than $300. As I check the part price at Sewell, it is priced $254.41. You also can see where it is located there.
A friend of mine had experienced this and it was a hard work to fix it. Removing it was not easy. He tried to clean and polish inside and used a new grease without buying a new switch. He could save some money but it was not a simple job.
I had the exact problem 5 months ago and I dare decided to fix it myself using a simpler, easier and may be smarter method. It was to apply a big current peaking more than 20A to the contacts using a car battery and a head light bulb.
My method was to clean the contact by the inrush current while shifting back and forth. This is somewhat strange for mechanics but it was a electrical method. Those who know the contacts will do this type of quick job. The fixed switch has been quite OK since I've done. I am sure it will be OK for a few to several more years from now on. This method did not require me any money but also I didn't need to remove the switch nor to open inside. If you are interested in my method, I will show you more after I write the detail with drawings and photos.
It detects the shift positions. As the car ages, it begins to show intermittent no connection problems. The aged electrical grease inside loses the capability of a good electrical connection and shows intermittent no connection problem especially when cold because the grease looses the flexibility. Look at the photo below. This is the inside of the switch. The lower part is after the grease was wiped off.
The most common and simple symptom is the no indication of the shift position at the cluster. The most serious one is the no start of the engine probably as you are experiencing now. The schematic below may help you to understand why so. Without closing the contact of the the neutral (start) switch, the starter relay cannot be driven and causes no start at all.
Once the problem happens and the adjustment is not effective, dealers usually replace the whole neutral start switch unit asking you to pay more than $300. As I check the part price at Sewell, it is priced $254.41. You also can see where it is located there.
A friend of mine had experienced this and it was a hard work to fix it. Removing it was not easy. He tried to clean and polish inside and used a new grease without buying a new switch. He could save some money but it was not a simple job.
I had the exact problem 5 months ago and I dare decided to fix it myself using a simpler, easier and may be smarter method. It was to apply a big current peaking more than 20A to the contacts using a car battery and a head light bulb.
My method was to clean the contact by the inrush current while shifting back and forth. This is somewhat strange for mechanics but it was a electrical method. Those who know the contacts will do this type of quick job. The fixed switch has been quite OK since I've done. I am sure it will be OK for a few to several more years from now on. This method did not require me any money but also I didn't need to remove the switch nor to open inside. If you are interested in my method, I will show you more after I write the detail with drawings and photos.
Thanks in advance
10-19-17, 07:17 PM
#22
Moderator
http://celsiorup.com/cgi/ita/itacel....152&page=&no=0
In case of a no start issue caused by the neutral safety switch, apply the current between the pin 5 and 6 instead of 4 and 9. Removing the connector and use a car battery and a headlight bulb connecting in between them to apply the current. Move the shift **** back and forth pushing the AT release red button. The inrush current goes through there and the surface of contacts are melted slightly and the resistance becomes less. Try this a few times and measure the resistance. If it becomes less than 0.5 ohm, stop it. Too much repetition may damage the contacts.
10-19-17, 07:44 PM
#23
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Yamae's Electrical fix
Thank you for sharing the information. I am definitely going to give it a try. I wish I had some way to help all you Lexaholics but my knowledge is squat so all I can say is thank you kind gentlemen.
10-20-17, 09:51 AM
#24
thank god our lexus's have remove and replace labor jobs, not like other cars whare techs spend hours scratching there heads on whare to trouble shoot ( euro and domestic cars)
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