LANcr3w

Yeah I wont lie electrical is not my expertise, but I have someone helping out. Yes I can say I haven't checked the wire from the switch to coil yet. I was explaining what ive already done to test that section. But ill check the wire between there today and see if I cant find anything.

Looking at it now like that, I think it may have been getting read wrong. Thanks!

LANcr3w

Okay so im going to start from the beginning to make this more understandable.

im not getting spark in Ignition coil one

1. The first test i put the voltmeter on Ignition coil 2's plug-in.
~ I got 12v
2. Second i tried the Ignition Coil 1's plug-in
~ I do NOT get 12v

3. This is where i checked the wire from the Iginition Module.

4. I also checked the hot wire on COIL 1 to the ground wire of COIL 2 and i then got 12v

At this point im not sure what this means other than something could be grounded out somewhere.
Maybe this might help you suggest where i should be looking.
Or maybe im not understanding this diagram at all.

fixmiester

I think you are caught up in chasing your tail, combined with a little confusion, but you are close to finding the problem. Rather than explaining how it all works, let's just start with basics. Here's a few hints: Terminal B on both igniters should be +12 volts WRT (with respect to) chassis ground, whenever the ignition is ON. If it's not, stop there, and figure out why. It is important that you always measure WRT GROUND, not somewhere else. NEXT: If you do have 12v, you should be able to produce a spark by quickly flashing a grounded wire to the "C" connection of the coil, with very brief contact. If that produces a spark at the distributor post, then the coil is probably okay. THEN you start looking for problems with the igniter, or the ECU, or the crankshaft position sensors.
You say you are not getting fire from the other bank. How do you know; do you have the plug wires off the cylinders? You need to have at least one plug wire off and use a test spark plug that is grounded, that can be seen when you crank the engine. IMPORTANT: At this point, you are NOT trying to start the engine--you are simply trying to produce a spark from the "bad" side of the engine, while turning over the starter.
Now you can begin substituting things to find out what is working, and what is not. Start buy switching the igniters from the working bank into the bad bank--did that fix the problem? If not, you can switch the bad bank igniter leads to the ECU with the leads on the good bank--a little tricky, but it can be done with a few small jumper leads. If that doesn't fix the problem, then you may have a bad connection or module in the crankshaft Position Sensor. Let us know what you find.

LANcr3w

Okay after just reassuring my testing and eliminating obvious problems.... I am ready to just try a ECU I know FOR SURE works, the one I purchased from a local Pick n Pull could have been just as bad as the first.

Does anyone know where I could purchase a rebuilt one or new one in brand new working condition for fairly cheap? Don't really want to spend more that $150 and I don't trust replacing the capacitors myself and it just working again.

Any suggestions?

python

iTrader: (4)

take it to ur local napa auto parts and have them send it off to cardone

LScowboyLS

any place that knows what they are doing, and replaces your capacitors with the correct premium maker Japanese low-ESR type is going to charge at least $150, and since any ECU you buy needs this done as well, you are better off getting yours fixed than buying another one, if you want to stay cheap and end up with a reliable ECU (this assumes yours has not been butchered by a bad repair job or has leaked to the point of damaging the circuit board irreparably)