Anyone tried dropping the steering rack to do the engine mounts?
03-01-13, 03:25 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Anyone tried dropping the steering rack to do the engine mounts?
Just looking at the bazillion writeups I see for doing the LS400 engine mounts, EVERY single one of them i've seen says the passenger side is relatively easy, but that the drivers side one is somewhat complicated because the power steering rack is in the way.
Well I am doing some major work on my car this coming sunday, and two of the things i am doing are all three of the mounts, and also the rack bushings. I figured it would make the job much easier if it's out of the way and just wanted to see if anyone else has gone this route.
Just did the new 95' ECU and cruise computer, and going to be changing the mounts, drivebelt, P/S pump, the brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential oil, and finnaly getting the alignment done and flushing the cooling system. She will be taking me to California on the 17th, and I almost am looking forwards to the drive more than anything else!
Well I am doing some major work on my car this coming sunday, and two of the things i am doing are all three of the mounts, and also the rack bushings. I figured it would make the job much easier if it's out of the way and just wanted to see if anyone else has gone this route.
Just did the new 95' ECU and cruise computer, and going to be changing the mounts, drivebelt, P/S pump, the brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential oil, and finnaly getting the alignment done and flushing the cooling system. She will be taking me to California on the 17th, and I almost am looking forwards to the drive more than anything else!
03-01-13, 10:14 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, i decided to crawl undernieth the car while looking at the culprit of some suspension noise, and i can see what the issue is.
The passenger side is easily accessable, and the drivers side has the rack valve and pinion housing totally blocking it. If you totally drop the rack, it looks to be a peice of cake.... we will see though, i'll take photos!
The passenger side is easily accessable, and the drivers side has the rack valve and pinion housing totally blocking it. If you totally drop the rack, it looks to be a peice of cake.... we will see though, i'll take photos!
03-08-13, 08:41 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, got it all done now. Even with the rack totally out of the way, you will STILL need to drop the crossmember... however that didn't turn out to be so bad either.... good thing i went that route too, as my rack bushings were pretty deteriorated.
As for the car, OH MY LORD, new engine mounts are a beautiful thing!!
As for the car, OH MY LORD, new engine mounts are a beautiful thing!!
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03-08-13, 03:54 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I ended up not taking as many as I would have liked to, I guess i just got caught up in the job. I will have to put them up here in a bit.
I just assumed that from feeling various engine vibrations and from the driveline rumble and reading other peoples experiences on here that they were in need, and i was kind of dismayed when I pulled them and they didn't fall apart like a lot of the ones I see here did. However, the new ones were taller compared to the old ones, and the car almost has this surreal feeling now, like the engine is not even connected to it. It fixed the rumble sensation too.
I was going to try and avoid dropping the crossmember because it sounded like a total pain in the butt, but it honestly wasn't too bad. I didnt have to touch the front suspension bolts at all when I lowered it, and although i was supporting it with a second jack at first, i found that it would only come down a few inches before it wouldn't lower anymore on its own. the biggest thing I would watch for is the wiring harness that is bolted to it, and also the the P/S lines running to the rack....
However, since i totally removed the rack, i didn't have that issue, and it made it MUCH easier to get to the driver side motor mount. The Rack is pretty simple to remove, but the scary part is hooking the lines back up... as they are banjo fittings and there really isn't room to get a torque wrench in there.. plus you have to do the lower fitting pretty much by feel, and i was afraid that i wouldnt of been able to properly clean the fitting to ensure they wouldn't leak. However, i've got no leaks whatsoever, and new rack bushings to boot too
Just be sure to get the car realigned afterwards, as you will be screwing with the suspension angles a bit
I just assumed that from feeling various engine vibrations and from the driveline rumble and reading other peoples experiences on here that they were in need, and i was kind of dismayed when I pulled them and they didn't fall apart like a lot of the ones I see here did. However, the new ones were taller compared to the old ones, and the car almost has this surreal feeling now, like the engine is not even connected to it. It fixed the rumble sensation too.
I was going to try and avoid dropping the crossmember because it sounded like a total pain in the butt, but it honestly wasn't too bad. I didnt have to touch the front suspension bolts at all when I lowered it, and although i was supporting it with a second jack at first, i found that it would only come down a few inches before it wouldn't lower anymore on its own. the biggest thing I would watch for is the wiring harness that is bolted to it, and also the the P/S lines running to the rack....
However, since i totally removed the rack, i didn't have that issue, and it made it MUCH easier to get to the driver side motor mount. The Rack is pretty simple to remove, but the scary part is hooking the lines back up... as they are banjo fittings and there really isn't room to get a torque wrench in there.. plus you have to do the lower fitting pretty much by feel, and i was afraid that i wouldnt of been able to properly clean the fitting to ensure they wouldn't leak. However, i've got no leaks whatsoever, and new rack bushings to boot too
Just be sure to get the car realigned afterwards, as you will be screwing with the suspension angles a bit
03-09-13, 02:53 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Can't say I did yet, but they are on the list of things to do. I did just replace the upper left control arm because the ball joint had QUITE a bit of play in it, and it clunked and rattled all over the place and the steering was very squirley. When I took it in for an alignment, they said that it appears as if one of the lower control arms in the front left suspension is slightly bent, because everything went in specs except for the caster angle, which is still just a hair off.
I think the previous owner nailed a pot hole or something, which may explain the ball joint issue, and there is still a slight tapping sound coming out of the front end over harsh bumps. It steers wonderfully now though that i replaced the P/S pump and got the slack tightened up.
I think the previous owner nailed a pot hole or something, which may explain the ball joint issue, and there is still a slight tapping sound coming out of the front end over harsh bumps. It steers wonderfully now though that i replaced the P/S pump and got the slack tightened up.
03-10-13, 08:28 AM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
The rack bushings I got were OEM. They were only like $15 or so a peice. There are aftermarket polyurethane ones available, but as with any poly parts people who use them say they squeak when not lubed regularly. They are not a bad idea to do, especially if your car leaks oil. i had an old cressida where the bushings had TOTALLY failed, and the rack would slide to the left and right several inches when you turned the wheel. made for really REALLY sloppy (and dangerous) steering!
And yes, i have some pictures i can post up, but i got pretty involved and ended up not taking any with things apart. When i get my borrowed Memory card back, i will post them up
And yes, i have some pictures i can post up, but i got pretty involved and ended up not taking any with things apart. When i get my borrowed Memory card back, i will post them up
03-10-13, 06:48 PM
#15
They're available on ebay, though I bought mine from another member here who didn't need them anymore.
They came with a little pot of silicone/graphite lube and I used it VERY liberally. (maybe a little too liberally, it was dripping off the bushings for a couple weeks after melting in a bit
)