LANcr3w

Okay so i got home today, plugged the negative cable up and tried to do the code scan with the wire. This time i didn't get any crazy flashing but just the fact i don't have a check engine light that's on to scan. The check engine light only pops on when trying to crank up the car, as soon as i turn the key off then back to on the check engine light disappears.

I also took the safety of completely draining all the gas once again and adding 5 more gallons.

I took the attempt to start it up and its nowhere near as immediate or willing to come on. I also had very little starting fluid to use.

i tried quite a few times without it and itd start the motor up like it was bout to run and continue then itd sputter down and shut off.
At this point i held the starter down longer that found that the starter would keep the car going and those few seconds it would let out several backfires.
Im going to let it sit for now til i get more starting fluid and then im going to pull the spark plugs off clean them and dry them and attempt to start it up again and see if the results change

LANcr3w

Ive had a lot more response from the car after ive replaced:
Gas
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Distributor caps
Rotors

LScowboyLS

if your car will not produce DTC error codes as per the directions you followed on LexLS.com, then you have an ECU issue (or an issue with the wiring to the diagnostic connector which is very rare) or else a ground or power issue to the ECU

check all of your factory ground straps, such as the one on the back of A/C compressor, and the ones on each side of rear of engine, but of those things above, an actual ECU issue is the case in the vast majority of cases where an ECU will not communicate its DTC codes

my bet is on bad ECU caps or a burned resistor inside the ECU

LANcr3w

I mean there is a possibility of that being the case. Im going to see if i cant find someone with an obd1 scanner for it and scan it after i have to code pop up.

now if one of those are bad am i basically screwed, meaning im going to have to buy a new ECU or is it a relatively easy fix?

LScowboyLS

an ECU can be repaired, I posted a large thread about this, and if you go back earlier in this thread, we posted a link from LEXLS.com that will show you how to scan the car with just a jumper wire, no scanner needed.

LANcr3w

When starting the car, it kicks on running off of gas (gas problem solved) and immediately shoots up RPM's possibly around 3 to 4000.

It wants to stay at those high rpms kind of like the throttle is wide open but its closed. I read about IACV's being stuck open or close and depending on the situation it'll drop low in RPM's and shut off or itll idle high in RPM's.

Is it possible this could be my problem, as it is idling high but also when I open the throttle itll bog it down in the RPM's
Only thing I find weird is when I put it in drive or reverse it drop as if u were stopped at a stop light applying the brakes. Only when I throw it back in park it immediately shoots back up.

I cleaned the IACV up and im going to attempt too see if that helps.