python

iTrader: (4)

i would let it sit overnight..if u dont have that kind of time..4-6 hours should be good. then put the oil and run the car. this is why shop mechanics dont use this method. u can seal faster with a gasket and if its not over tightened..it will work just fine

LScowboyLS

made some technical changes in post #1 for clarity concerning the two types of black gaskets

please read and you with be right there with the world-class pros on your transmission sealing journey!

mikes7ke

iTrader: (1)

If you're so worried about both the transmission, and the leaking, take the time to remove the transmission, clean it, and reseal it.

PlotPoint

Fyi, for those using FIPG, I just read about a roto tool with a wire brush that gets all the old FIPG off in a matter of a few minutes. Sounds a lot better than scraping or wire brushing it off by hand (a real pain and time consuming...or so I have read). Flex tool is recommended.

LScowboyLS

why?

Fel-Pro has a 60+ year reputation of making the best gaskets, many times their gasket is better than the OEM gasket, and with some of the more complex gaskets like head gaskets, this kind of reputation is no small feat, they are the Denso of the gasket world, ask anyone who has been a mechanic their whole life.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

I've had multiple gaskets sloppily made and/or not fitting properly, including headgaskets.

I've used them for small, noncritical, easily reached applications but don't trust them for anything important and/or hard to reach.

Toyota doesn't use fel-pro or Federal Mogul (it's parent company) for any gaskets as far as I know. They do however, use Ishino Stone (a japanese company) and several others.

Mind you, none of this has any bearing on the discussion of a gasket vs. FIPG for a trans seal, which has been discussed in length in a thread already, and doesn't really belong here.

Yamae

I didn't know that. Is it that good? I happened have used a Fel-Pro but the reason why I chose it was that I didn't have any confidence to apply the FIPG precisely as was indicated in the service manual. It's almost impossible for me or for most humans, I think. I actually had a bad experience with the FIPG applied by the dealer.

It has been 4 months since I have used it. So far so good. There is no more leak at all and I am happy with it. May be I can count on it as LScowboyLS says in the future.

LScowboyLS

my only issue with the Fel-Pro transmission gasket is that they can be difficult to remove when you service it next time, never seen one leak on a transmission, and their design is also easiest to install because it stays in place due to extra small bolt holes as explained here:

Yamae

Then I should be careful not to damage the transmission in the future. Although I've got a lot of FIPG particles and pieces of plated metals from the original screen, the transmission is in very good shape now as well as there's no more leak after the screen was renewed and a Fel-Pro gasket was used.

The intermittent problem "no shift to 5th gear sometimes" was completely gone after the work. The ATF Type IV was drained and filled 3 times and I am hoping that there would be no more need to drop the pan. I hope I only would be needed just to drain and fill the ATF in the future.

YoshiMan

I'de go with the formed gasket. I've seen too many cases where the "make-a-gasket" stuff DOES break off on the inside of the pan and cause additional problems.

I worked at a truck rental place years and years back, and they actually had a service bulletin about the use of this stuff, which was going WAY out of hand at the time and was causing all sorts of problems. Some people were putting too much of it on the waterpumps (in cases where it was specified), which would then cause chunks of it to break off, enter the cooling system, and clog up the radiator/heater core. Then when the customer would drive his fully loaded truck with his car trailer through death valley.... it goes BOOM!!!

They changed their service procedures for Transmissions too, as they were having problems there as well.

python

iTrader: (4)

bingo .

paulybear

Hi guys. I've used different types of gasket sealers/ form-a-gasket, cork, rubber and felt solid form gaskets on different make and model transmissions over the years. I found from my experience the felt type was defiantly the best choice ( as Lscowboy said) for quick hassle free installation with the correct torque specs and sequence applied. It stayed sealed the longest out of all the solid form gaskets I've tried, black rubber being the worst ( Sometimes failing in less than six months) . As far as FIPG's, I've had great results with the less expensive Permitex Ultra-black and Ultra-grey silicone, used with the right technique. If I don't need the vehicle right away, after taking the pan off and removing the trans filter, I cut a piece of clean plastic big enough to droop under the transmission without touching the inside components. The first corner of the plastic I punch a hole with an awl. I then push one of the clean pan bolts through the punched hole, then screw the bolt into one of the corner screw holes in the transmission pan/housing surface. I do this on at least every other bolt hole the rest of the way around securing the plastic up. This way I can let the transmission leak for a day or two without getting contaminated. Otherwise you have to clean the transmission surface twice, once before you install the pan (getting up inside the walls), and one quick go over after you've applied the sealer to the pan. (Hurry, the sealant is setting up). Make sure to apply sealant around the bolt holes. The bead only needs to be 3/16" between bolt holes and centered on flange, with a thinner layer around the bolt holes ( as per instructions on package).Then I put pan up finger tight where sealant just starts to squeeze out evenly up to the very edge of the pans lip and let it set up ( as per instructions) sometimes overnight. Torque to spec, fill r' up (as per manufactures instruction), road test and your done. Don't use regular RTV silicone because its setup surface is to slick and will not seal for very long. I only use regular RTV silicone on water pumps or thermostat housings, but not where I'm trying to seal oil in because it never seems last for very long. My two cents worth. Paul

LScowboyLS

I would use FIPG if I was building a transmission from scratch on the bench, but working on the tranny while it's still in the car, you would have to literally let the car drain for days before you could get the car side of the contact surface to stay dry during installation of the pan, and FIPG doesn't seal well unless both sides are dry and oil-free.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

or use some brake cleaner and patience...

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

I've done countless tranny pan drops and have used everything from cork to rubber to fibre to FIPG's like permatex ultra-blue/black/grey/copper/etc.
I use whatever the manufacturer calls for unless I have encountered problems before.

I have never had an issue using FIPG's when doing a tranny pan. It just takes some common sense, a fine tip on the gun, some brake clean, a few clean lint-free rags and having everything ready to go within arms reach...