Lvangundy

To start - Here are the pictures of the little hanging wire from under the car -

It's located basically under the passenger seat if you go straight down. It's next to the right side exhaust pipe.

Lvangundy

pic 2 of hose

Lvangundy

Next is the coolant container leak.

It's leaking from the top rubber lid seal.

Lvangundy

pic 2 coolant

Lvangundy

Next is the drivers seat -

The torsion bar and gear from the right side actuator is completely stripped.

The part from toyota is 115 plus another 15 for th silver torsion bar. PLus the cost to have my seats taken apart for the install of the new actuator.

The seat itself if very loose and uncomfortable. The back section rocks back and forth and it's slightly horizontally angled. Kinda making my back twisted as I sit.

Lvangundy

seatback2

Lvangundy

The next thing is the interior lights. The 'P' 'R' 'N' lights below the gear shift **** do not light up anymore - along with the a/c controls backlight buttons.

Nor does the dimmer function on the left side of the steering wheel work.

My LCD clock has almost completely blackend out now.

Lvangundy

The last thing AND THE MOST PROBLEMATIC!

I replaced my front rotors and pads with Toyota facotry parts to fix the grinding and squealing problem. (!!$350!!)

A day later- they are STILL squealing!

What's up?!?!

frustrated

retrodrive

What about your pads? Are they stock? Rotors are not a usual reason for wht you describe.

When you took that pic with dashboard, were the lights on? I don't get it why do you have so many problems with that car? Mine was abused and has more miles on it and I only aware of a couple of things that don't work.

LexusWhoSmokedU

I purchased my car two years ago and it cost me $9700 and had what I thought was MINOR power steering and AC problems. Your problems sprung up right before I did my complete rebuild of my car. (Yes, the rebuild even included the $230 Gear shift Leather ****) Your radiator resevoir problem is the radiator resevoir level sensor. The leak will get worse until you begin to have a small mist all over the engine and the only fix I have found to truly work is a brand new sensor AND a brand new resevoir. I tried one at a time and found out that they both were a problem. The AC controls and the PRND21 thing is just these really cheap bulbs you must buy from Lexus however you will not get your head knocked off too badly. You will need to pop out the air ducts above the AC controls and also the ash tray assembly. These are both extremely hard to pull out because they use clips which do not want to give. Use a 90 degree bent clip puller or just use a flat headed screwdriver and pry gently going side to side to avoid breaking anything. Once those are out, take out the four bolts which also have philips heads cut into them. Do not use the philips heads, they will just strip out. Use a 10mm ratchet to get them out. Then pull the radio and AC and you will need to take out the screws holding the mounting bracket onto the AC controls and the radio. Then take the AC controls and on the middle of the front of the sides will be two screws with should be removed with a #1 or #2 phillips screwdriver. Then gently pop the front panel from the rest of the AC contols and it will expose the back side of the AC controls were you can pull the bulbs out using a flat head screw driver allthough the pattern in the back of the sockets will be phillips in shape. These bulbs sell for about $.90 a piece and will fix that prob. While there, do all seven in the AC controls and display. The PRND21 prob is easier. Pop the wood panel up from around the shifter pulling upwards from the back and then sliding it backwards. Then remove the surrounding plastic piece containing the PWR/NORM switch and then remove the PRND21 indicator by removing the four screws with a #2 phillips. That will have a bulb harness on it. I think that should help you some. As for the hose... I even went out and looked on my car for a hose anywhere near there that resembled it and I am stumped. I will look again tomorrow in the day time and try to figure it out then. Hope this was a help to you!
Sean Gillette

Lvangundy

Thanks for the replys.

I'm pretty sure that the lights out on the a/c controls, PRND2L, analog odemeter reading light (something new I noticed wasn't on) and the dimmer control dial don't work ebcuase of something else. It's not the bulbs. They were all working a couple days ago, then it stopped. I think it's a fuse somewhere, I'll check today.

Retropete - the car only has a few things which are a pain. The first year of this car is known to have the worst brakes of any Lex (I think) and they were fixed in later years. I was recommended by a fellow CL member to have the calipers replaced as mine may be sticking. See this where the dillema of 'to fix or not to fix' comes in. Can I sell a car with sticking calipers? Personally, it's not very moral. Spend the $100 for rebuilt calipers, or spend $300 for new calipers from toyota?

If I plan to keep this car I'm just going to get screwed by maintaining all these little things. I think I've spent about half the cost of the original price of the car in maintenance. It's ridiculous. Don't really have any other option right now and can't afford a down on a newer car.

mlevk

YOU DID NOT MENTION ABOUT REPLACING THE BRAKE PAD SHIM SET . IF THEY LOOSE THEIR "TENSION" THE PADS WILL PROBABLY SQUEAL. ALSO SOME PEOPLE SAY THERE IS A BREAK IN PERIOD, AND SOME EVEN VERY SPECIFIC ABOUT HOW YOU BREAK THEM IN.
YOU CAN TRY THE ANTI-SQUEAL COATING IF YOU DON'T WANT TO REPLACE THEM, OR TRY SPRINGING THEM BACK INTO SHAPE.

AS FOR THE LIGHTS , WELL THEY ALL GO SOONER OR LATER.

I DON'T SEE THAT HOSE EITHER ON MY CAR , "91 LS.

I CAN'T HELP YOU ON THE SEAT, MINE ROCKS A LITTLE BUT ISN'T
SLANTED TO ONE SIDE.

I HAVE 137,000 ON MINE AND HAVE HAD 1 MAJOR PROBLEM IS THE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL, WHICH WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY.

THE ALTERANATOR IS SUSPECT IN MY DEAD BATTERY PROBLEM.
IF I DON'T DRIVE IT FOR 4-5 DAYS, THE "NEW" BATTERY IS DEAD.
I RETURNED AND GOT A NEW ONE AND WE'LL SEE HOW IT GOES.
I DON'T GET A "ALT WARNING LIGHT" , BUT I HAVE A AFTERMAKET ALARM THAT MAYBE DRAWING TOO MUCH CURRENT ?
i HAVE TO GET A VOLT METER TO CHECK THE 12-14V RANGE.
ANYONE .

hyperopt

Lvangundy,

Sound like the issues you're experiencing is age-related, and most of which can be fixed without much difficulties.
As for the brake sqealing, it's not highly unusual for 1st & 2nd generation LS to squeal so don't assume it's the design problem in the 1st generation. 90LS, 96LS and 94ES we have here squeal with the 96LS squeals loudest. My 91LS doesn't squeal at all and the only difference (besides dual piston caliper) I saw when I replaced the pad was it had two pad shims instead of one for each pad. I used two shims for each replacement pad and my LS have not squealed.

hyperopt

A voltmeter will tell you if the system is charging. You might also get an ampmeter to measure drawing current when the car is off. It's best to get a multimeter but be sure to get one with at least 10A current rating.

meZoom!

yes, as long as your brakes do their job of "braking", you can sell it in Cali. It's ridiculous because even if there is no steering wheel or seat belt, as long as the brakes function, you are legally allowed to sell.