Zachsta

Hey everyone, my 1995 LS400 has been having an issue since i bought it. There are days where the pedal pressure feels different then others, in where it stiffens up and has a resistance on acceleration of the car. Now I checked both front calipers, and they are both locking up when the pedal stiffens and puts resistance on the front. Now, normally that would happen when I was driving and would free up within about a minute back to normal pedal pressure. As of two days ago, I was on my way to work and the pedal stiffened up to the point where it was sticking so bad I had to floor it to keep it going ( I HAD to do this because the freeway I was on had no emergency pull off due to construction. ) and I pulled off at the next exit and had the car towed home.

Now, what exactly could this be? The ABS system? Would I be able to possibly bypass ABS temporarily so I'd be to drive the car?

Thank you in advance!

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

sup zach! you did tell me when i spoke to you yesterday that your ABS module is either malfunctioning or completely inoperable. let us know what happens when you replace that. dumb question, but are you sure you don't have the e-brake on right?

Zachsta

I ordered that part hoping it will be the fix judging by some of the answers I read around, but I want to see if anyone has first hand experience with the issue to chime in.


E-brake was not on.

Zachsta

Anyone?

Thank you!

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

did you check if you have any kinked hard lines or soft line anywhere in the system? how is your fluid level? are all the vacuum lines router properly to the brake booster?

mojoda27

I'm having similar problem with my 93 LS 400. The problem is not consistence, but will surface quite often. When the car starts up and drive you feel no resistance or dragging, but after 3 - 5 miles( if the issue tends to surface ) you'll feel a slight resistance which usually progresses to TOTAL stop. In the first instant of stop, I engaged the gear in neutral and tried to push the car out of the road; it won't move. After about 5min.(engine off ) it moved for about and locked up again, and had to tow the car to my mechanic. The following morning, my mechanic didn't find anything wrong with the car. I explained that I saw slight smoke coming from the driver side rear wheel ( did not check passenger side ) and I think, the caliper is the problem. After extensive test, he concluded that he caliper is not the issue, that the ABS pump is the cooperate. Furthermore, he's not equipped to determine which of the 4 pumps is going bad. I was advised to take it to the dealer.

fireman171

Mojo,

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I am hoping whatever your problem was might help me out. If anyone else can help me out I would appreciate it as well.

I have a 95 GS300 that started this vibration thing. Started out in the steering wheel, thought it was a bad tire, rotated them but didn't completely go away though it wasn't horrible. Then over time it got worse started sounding like driving on rumble strips all the time and gear shift would shake terrible and it felt like it was dragging but it didn't do it all the time and typically only after driving a few minutes or miles. Now it does it every time I drive it, but always after the first mile or two, and sometimes sets off the TRAC light. The car will drift to a stop on its own and you cannot push it in neutral.

First check found right rear brake stuck, was able to collapse the caliper, took apart cleaned it up and put it back on. Test drove and it did it again after driving 2 miles it did it again but the TRAC light didn’t come on so I’m getting no codes. Now the left front is stuck, I opened the bleeder and got no squirt of fluid just a little leaked out. I was able to collapse one piston real easy but other one was a challenge. I checked all 4 wheels; (R) Front and (R) rear will turn by hand but have some real drag on them, the (L) rear spins nice and easy.

The last time I messed with it I had all 4 wheels off the ground and got it to make noise and activate the TRAC light but that was before I looked on here so I didn’t check the codes and it clears it’s self once shut off and no codes are stored because it just flashes constantly when I jump the terminals. Thanks!!

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

from what zach, the OP, told me, he replaced the proportioning valve or the ABS module and it fixed the problem.

racersky

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same problem but only my fronts are locking up. At first my brake pedal would go to the floor every time I start the car. I then decided to replace my booster and master cylinder and now my pedal does not go to floor but doesn't feel normal like it used to. I threw the car in neutral and my driveway is on a decline the car would not move what so ever. I made sure that the parking brake was not engaged. I then jacked my car on all 4 wheels off the ground and tried to spin the wheels. The rears spin fine but the two fronts did not want to spin at all. At this point in time I have replaced Brake Booster, Master Cylinder, 2 front calipers, and also the soft brake lines to steel braided.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

racersky: read your post.

racersky

iTrader: (2)

Fix my problem with my front brakes....turns out it was a really stupid thing. The brake pedal itself has a bushing up took that got worn out and made the pedal go crooked and then got stuck so the front brakes were remaining engaged. Changed it all out and now the brakes are working.

Kram

I had the same problem on my 1990 LS I found that the brake hoses had gone bad and when I would hit the brakes all the fuilde would not return to the master clylinder and this would build up to the point that the front brakes would start to lockup .If I let the brakes rest the fuild slowly would return to the master. Also this same thing can make the steering not want to return when the inside walls of the hoses start to go bad. The book calls for replacement of these hoses after 120,000. miles or 10 years I would replace all 4 hoses even if this repair does not fix your problem.