blkstealthpaid4

I havn't taken my car to the mech for the past 4yrs and thinking I am on a roll by doing everything mysellf,

I ordered the valve cover gasket from ebay which never came with the grommet for the bolts.The drivers side cover gasket was completely loose when I took the bolts off.I put the new gasket on and it was even leaking more than before.I then retightened without using any sequence and it is still leaking.Since this ebay order never came with any grommet for the screws, I went to O reilly to order new ones.At the moment the whole engine is smoking when driving down the road.Does anyonj know the SEQUENCE on tightening the bolts on the cover?.I have even used silicon /RTV on almost every grove on the cover and oil is still pouriing out when driving.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

it would be neat to know what you are driving, but it sounds like you need to remove it all and clean things up .

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/valvecover.html

BobN54

If it's leaking that bad it's not because of tightening sequence. You may have rolled the gasket out of position when installing the cover.

blkstealthpaid4

I have a 95 and sorry I missed the valve gasket tutorial on his site.Now I have to go buy the 4 valve cover gasket for each cover

SpencerT

4 valve cover gaskets?
you mean 1 valve cover gasket and 4 spark plug seals per valve cover?

blkstealthpaid4

Unbelievable!A crack in the cover.No wonder the bolts were loose when I first took them off.Slightly leaking when I bought the car and got worse over a 5 yr period.Damn cars that have previously overheated.Put one on from a junk yard with a new gasket.Let's see how this one works.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

unrelated to overheating actually, someone saw it leaking and instead tried to tighten the hell out of the cover bolts.

blkstealthpaid4

In 5 yrs I have never touched the valve cover or the bolts.The former owner wasn't mech inclined and so I am guessing someone retightened the bolts and when I came along I made it worse by cracking it.It was completely losse when I first tried to take them off.

Most mech are also not using the sequencing method on specific vehicles..I was just taught to tightened them in sequence so they wouldn't warp or crack again.Far left up,middle bottom,far right up and then back down far right bolt and so on.................
I am done with this issue now I am moving on to a power steering pump issue.I should have never got the pump from a junk yard.The pulley seems to be locking up.The pulley came off on the hwy and so did the belt..Sorry unrelated......

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

there is a tutorial on rebuilding the PS pump if you still have the old one. look it up and save a little.. or rebuild the current one.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

A torque wrench does wonders if a person does not have a sense of how tightly they are snugging things up. The Toyota torque specs are fairly lax but given aluminum parts, a torque wrench is.

blkstealthpaid4

Thanks for mentioning a torque wrench because with the new cover,gasket and gromett is still leaking but not as much as before.The http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/valvecover.html site says the torque should be 52in-ib but my mech says that is too much.I am never doing valve cover on any V engines.When the cover is off you see all the oil sitting in the corner pockets ready to splash out.Not like an easy straight 6 engine where the oil is actually sitting down.Silicone is on all the corners where the oil sits but it is still slightly leaking.

blkstealthpaid4

Unrelated question .....I am about to change out the power steering pump for the 2nd time.Anyone know the bolt size that hold the pump under the car?I remember I had to borrow a swivel socket from my mech.I had a long extension with a socket and that didn't do the job until I got the swivel socket.I need to get this before until I start the job.I just don't want to buy a whole swicket socket set.