cheapboy

Does anyone know where is the Voltage regulator Located at, please help

steve2006

The voltage regulator for what? There is a voltage regulator within the alternator if that is what you mean.
What are your symptoms or problem with the car?

cheapboy

Alternator Voltage regulator, my symptom is when i stop at stop light the battery light came on, and i went to checker for alternator test , and they said my Alternator Regulator is bad, i wonder where they locate at, is it on top of the alternator?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

its inside the alternator. usually when the voltage reg. goes bad you need to replace the whole alternator as replacing the reg alone is more of a pain than replacing the whole assy.

TopJimmy

This symptom (stepping on brake and battery light coming on) just started happening to me tonight. Can you please follow-up with whether or not that was the correct diagnosis and what steps were take to fix it.

Thanks in advance,
Jimmy
1995 White/Grey w/ chromes.
163,500 :-)

trukn1

Normally the signs of a bad alternator will be as you describe. when the brake is pressed the battery/e-brake/coolant/oil/ and a few more icons will pop up all at the same time. Will most likely resemble a christmas tree on your dash with all the lights. You will notice that your radio will fade, and your headlights will also dim as you will pretty much be riding on battery power alone since the alternator will not be charging properly or is only charging intermittently. I had this problem on my 92 and it drove me nuts for almost a year since I kept thinking I was getting a bad batch of re-maned' alternators. One other thing to check are your ground wires. Mine finally/untimately ended up being a bad ground on the wire cluster(the harness plug that plugs into your alternator) for the alternator itself. It was not easy to find and involved alot of time backtracing wires to see where that plug was grounded. Re-did that one and have not had a problem since.

TopJimmy

Thanks for the reply. Today, it the light seems more predictable in that it is on at idle and below about 1500 RPMs, and goes off at highway speed or anything above 2000 RPMs. Not sure which direction to take this, but wanted to update the symptom.

I would be interested in checking the alternator's voltage output, but would like to to that without removal. I have multi-tester and am mechanically inclined. Is there a way to check the output without removal? Other than the alternator, what are the other likely suspects, loose or glazed serpentine belt, or perhaps warn idler pulley?

Jimmy

TopJimmy

Spent most of the day screwing around with the alternator issue.

Voltage at battery with car off - 12.5
Voltage at battery with car at idle - 11.1 (few or no accessories on)

Removed alternator and examined it. It look good and fairly clean with no indication of any power steering fluid as is commonly reported. I took it to O'Reilly where it tested good. Stop by AutoZone and it "failed". I stopped by another O'Reilly and it tested good, generating 13.4; 13.5; and 13.2 amps respectively over three test.

I noticed some corrosion on the three-prong terminal so cleaned that out well with electrical cleaner. The belt was in very good shape with no cracks or glazing. Along the way I did find that the idler pulley was grinding a bit so picked up a new one and installed it as I put everything back together. I removed and cleaned the battery terminals and reinstalled. I did not have the battery tested, but it was replaced in December 2010.

Once reassembled, it started right up, but the battery light was on while idling. Took it for a drive to get the RPMs up around 2000. Not only was there no improvement, it actually got worse. The battery light never went off, trac off light started flashing, ABS light came on, then the tach started bouncing around. I headed for home, but it was too late. I was obviously running only on the battery and it was loosing power quickly. Soon all gauges and lights were erratic, and neither the radio nor the claimant controls would come on. About that time, the engine died. I pulled into someone's driveway and let her set. Jumped her with cables about 30 minutes later and got her back home, though it had started to demonstrate all of the above symptoms again, and died right as I pulled in.

I am open to ideas.
Jimmy

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

11.1v at idle means you arent charging....

just buy a properly rebuilt alternator.

TopJimmy

My thoughts from the git-go... just was thrown a curve by it testing good, and a deep desire to save roughly $175.00.

Thanks for the input. I will purchase and install a rebuilt one today. Posting an update upon completion.

Jimmy

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

if you're convinced its not the voltage regulator, you could drop $15-20 and just buy the alternator brushes. it's pretty straightforward to just replace those.

TopJimmy

Thanks PD, Since it was previously charging at 1500 RPMs and over, and given the O'Reilly test that rendered 13.X volts, I decided it was the regulator, or something else besides the brushes. Though I acknowledge it could also have to do with the wiring elsewhere. However, given that this would be the second time in two days for removal and replacement, I opted for a replacement..

The short answer:is replacing the alternator solved the problem. Solid 14.1 volts at idle. No battery light. Everything back to normal

Things I learned, or confirmed along the way:
1) If you are reading under 13 volts at the battery while at idle there is a charging issues.
2) Just because an alternator tests "good", it may still fail to charge under circumstances when on the vehicle. This is particularly true if the charging is intermittent.
3) You can remove / install the alternator from under the vehicle, without having to take off any hoses, fan or shroud. It takes a little finesse, but it is very doable, and saves a great deal of time.
4) You may come across some other parts needing attention (like an idler pulley). Though it was not making any noise, it was turning a little rough upon examination. Who knows how long it may have lasted, but knowing that bearings do not typically improve, it seemed like a great time to replace.

Thanks for the replies and help along the way.

Jimmy