driverJM

So I had codes 52,55 Knock sensors 1,2 so I replaced both and put new sensor wire harness in as well pulled the fuse and disconnected negative to clear codes soon as I take it down the road, bam same codes Any Ideas

deanshark

My 93 manual shows.

open or short in knock sensor circuit.
knock sensor (looseness)
ECM

Did you check to see if the new, and old, knock sensors were in spec? I would check your old knock sensors to see if they are in spec, if they are then it's either the wiring or the ECM. Also, I don't know if this would effect those sensors but, there's a wire on the trunk hinge that gets fraid and causes alot of mysterious electrical issues up front. I've never had that problem so someone else might have more info on that.

driverJM

hey thanks alot I have been beating my head trying to figure this out, I will have to do some investigative wire searching

steve2006

It could also be that the knock sensors are perfectly OK and actually telling you the engine is knocking for real,are you using premium gas?
Another point is did you correctly torque the sensors as this is critical to ensure correct operation.
I feel for you having stripped down the top of the engine,reassembled and then still have the problem.

twofanman

One easy item you can check is the connector splice point in the wiring harness that carries both knock sensor circuits. The connector has 3 positions in it - two of which are the knock sensor circuits. I didn’t look to see what the third position in the connector is - or even if the third one is used. So there could be either 2 or 3 wires going into the connector. The connector is called EF1. The RM says it is black in color and located just aft of the air intake chamber on the driver side. Hopefully this plug just got disconnected or effed up somehow and it’s an easy fix.

driverJM

I checked continuity on new sensors and on wires from sensors to ecu I tighted them down as much as i could i pretty sure its supposed to be like 33 I always use 93 and have recently had new plugs wire timing belt and all the rest do you think maybe a bad ecu

driverJM

oh yeah before I replaced sensors and wire harness MIL stayed on all the time after i replaced it wont go on till its under load and hits 1500 RPMs if it is in park i can race it all I want and nothing not until its under load and 15 maybe 1600 RPMs has anyone had an issue like this before I went through trouble shooting pages and it says its the ECU could this be the case and if so anyone know a good ECU repair shop