Christmas eve bought 1994 SL400 for $1200
12-24-10, 10:08 PM
#1
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Christmas eve bought 1994 SL400 for $1200
Body and interior are absolutely perfect!
Power steering whines and needs to be refilled once a week. ACV (air control valve) might be replaced too as a precaution. But can I get an oem ACV? I am absolutely not going to block off the lines, that is jerry rigging...not gonna happen.
Instrument cluster is dark but for the sword like needles for first half hour then lights up. Capacitor C212 electrolytic 10 microfarad 16 volt on small circuit board needs to be replaced with a superior one.
Gas gage doesn't work but orange warning light does. Capacitor C 142 electrolytic 4.7 microfarad 25v needs to be replaced with a superior one.
Must constantly add coolant. Probably the plastic reservoir is cracked behind where I cannot see it.
I joined this site this afternoon and have learned all this and much much more already. What a cool site!
There are two screens to clean when replacing the power steering pump and the vehicle's front tires must be off the ground, the reservoir cap removed and engine running as I push and pull a front tire from stop to stop as many as fifty times to remove air from system.
Having said this:
Will someone please elaborate on what I still need to know about these main issues?
Thank you--freegard
Power steering whines and needs to be refilled once a week. ACV (air control valve) might be replaced too as a precaution. But can I get an oem ACV? I am absolutely not going to block off the lines, that is jerry rigging...not gonna happen.
Instrument cluster is dark but for the sword like needles for first half hour then lights up. Capacitor C212 electrolytic 10 microfarad 16 volt on small circuit board needs to be replaced with a superior one.
Gas gage doesn't work but orange warning light does. Capacitor C 142 electrolytic 4.7 microfarad 25v needs to be replaced with a superior one.
Must constantly add coolant. Probably the plastic reservoir is cracked behind where I cannot see it.
I joined this site this afternoon and have learned all this and much much more already. What a cool site!
There are two screens to clean when replacing the power steering pump and the vehicle's front tires must be off the ground, the reservoir cap removed and engine running as I push and pull a front tire from stop to stop as many as fifty times to remove air from system.
Having said this:
Will someone please elaborate on what I still need to know about these main issues?
Thank you--freegard
Last edited by freegard; 12-24-10 at 10:19 PM. Reason: puncuation--not an idiot...don't want to appear as one.
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12-28-10, 06:35 PM
#10
The water pump in my 93 LS died this Xmas day. Coolant leaked out of the bottom timing cover behind the crank pulley and steam blew out of the top distrubutor covers. I spent all of sunday changing the pump. This involves 95% of the labor of a timing belt replacement so I replaced the belt also. My mechanic quoted me $800 for a T-belt job so I saved myself a nice hunk of change.
01-02-11, 11:14 PM
#11
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Great! I replaced the power steering pump with an OEM rebuilt, flushed the lines, replaced the return line, thoroughly cleaned the reservoir and it is perfect except for little nudges from the steering wheel when I am under 20MPH--that is almost certainly the plugged screen that I have not yet gotten to on the steering assist solenoid under the steering rack. I couldn't locate the wheel lock mater to remove the driver's side wheel to get at the solenoid. I also took tha above advice and removed the IACV and got a bolt from Tacoma Screw to fit that hole perfectly. The water leak I thought was the inlet housing or the thermostat housing. I replaced the o rings and used RTV but I don't think those were the only leaks. Now I have the cassic air pockets in the upper engine and it is still losing coolant from some line under the throttle body or intake plenum. How hard are those water lines to replace? I cannot seem to find a thread that addresses coolant leakage under the throttle body/intake. Can someone help me with this issue please. Yeah, I get it by the way; I interpolated LS in the top of the string. I owned mercedes and they are SL not LS. So what! **** nitpickers are like flies...annoying distractions and pests.
01-02-11, 11:20 PM
#12
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01-03-11, 05:51 AM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Great! I replaced the power steering pump with an OEM rebuilt, flushed the lines, replaced the return line, thoroughly cleaned the reservoir and it is perfect except for little nudges from the steering wheel when I am under 20MPH--that is almost certainly the plugged screen that I have not yet gotten to on the steering assist solenoid under the steering rack. I couldn't locate the wheel lock mater to remove the driver's side wheel to get at the solenoid. I also took tha above advice and removed the IACV and got a bolt from Tacoma Screw to fit that hole perfectly. The water leak I thought was the inlet housing or the thermostat housing. I replaced the o rings and used RTV but I don't think those were the only leaks. Now I have the cassic air pockets in the upper engine and it is still losing coolant from some line under the throttle body or intake plenum. How hard are those water lines to replace? I cannot seem to find a thread that addresses coolant leakage under the throttle body/intake. Can someone help me with this issue please. Yeah, I get it by the way; I interpolated LS in the top of the string. I owned mercedes and they are SL not LS. So what! **** nitpickers are like flies...annoying distractions and pests.
my o ring broke in the installation ( in the image its circled)
so before you tear your car apart double EVEN TRIPLE check that pipe (water by pass)
my solution was some JB-weld from autozone
the pipe itself is metal so unless its rusted out its probably not that
have you noticed were the leak comes down at
if its between the transmission and engine it most defiantly will be the
water by pass
01-12-11, 11:28 PM
#14
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Tonyfazt! Thanx but I am wondering. Did you epoxy the metal tube that runs past the starter and enters the water pump? Is that the tube you epoxied? Didn't you need to disassemble the entire top of the engine to get to it?
01-12-11, 11:39 PM
#15
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Sincerely,
Tim
No, and the neat thing is that the 100 amp alternator was just replaced. I rep.aced the pump, ran it for 300 miles and flushed it again and WOW the steering is as good as any car I have ever had. No little nudges anymore...the flush really helped? Absolutely perfect...and yes the ACV is disconnected and no I do not notice any difference.