Suneet

I stick with Mobil 1. One thing I've read again on this board many times, is that if you've been sticking to regular oil for this long, don't switch to synthetic, as it may break seals and cause leaks. I've been tempted to switch to synthetic but haven't done it for this reason.

Pagong

Castrol GTX COSTCO case special

steveski

95 with 168,000 miles. Mobil 1 SYN since 10,000 miles........car is as smooth as day 1

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

1995 on Mobil 1 Synthetic, made the switch at ~125,000miles with 5w-30. burned oil a bit much for my liking, switched to 10-30/40 and been fine ever since.

damon

Suneet,

You puzzle me. You stick with Mobil 1 yet you won"t switch to synthetics due to leaks??

Sjnmsn,

Your LS is a baby at 100,000 miles. Run any Dino oil & Change at 4000 intervals & you will be fine. Run any synthetic, (ala Mobil 1) & change at 5000 & you will be fine. A quality filter makes more difference than either choice above.

If you want to be fanatical, play the field & send out a sample of the just changed oil for analysis. It should tell you all you want to know. BTW, you would by no means be the first here to require analysis.

PS: If you live on a ranch with dirt roads please scrap all above advice.

Tammy

Try to stay with the brand and weight the engine is used to running... Castrol GTX (non-high mileage type) is good.
With the records, the decision should be easy. Just use a better quality oil filter...

All the additives needed are now included in the oil

Lexushead

Had never use synthetic. Still running smooth. 260,000 miles

sjnmsn

Thanks to all for the advice.

sjnmsn

suloh

What weight and make of oil are you using on your high Mileage car

Lexushead

I use 10W30 in Winter and 10W40 in the summer. It seems to quiet the valves a little better. I have some free oil changes from quick-change places and they just use what the manual calls out for 5w30. It's runs fine.
On a related subject, last week I got some Pennzoil full synthetics on clearance from Home Depot (didn't know they carry it) for $8.27 for 6 qts. For $1.48 per qt, I might as well buy 4 cases. I don't think oil goes bad, does it? I'm contemplating using it in my 05 Tundra.

yusych

I just got my lexus it's 1991 W/ 53k and i just put synthetic castrol oil in it, i dont know what the last owner was using on it. The reason why i am bringing this up is bacause, like 3 days later i developed a leak at the rear crankshaft seal or the mair rear seal, it's leaking where the transmission is connected to the motor, and i was woundering if that is from puting synthetic oil in, because of maybe the last owner used regular motor oil. So was woumdering if i whould switch back to regular or stay with synthetic. And before i changed the oil i used an engine flush, so i want someone to give me feedback on this situation, thanx

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

what weight oil are you using? i had an oil burning issue when i was running 5w-30 mobil 1 so i switched to Mobil1 10w-30/40.

juss put in the heavier weigh synthetic, clean up the leak, and if it still leaks a week later then u need to replace the rear crank seal if it doesnt then just stick with the heavier oil.

yusych

I think i put in 10w40, i think i already am on the hevier side of the oil, i think i need to replace the rear crank seal, i am woundering if the oil swith caused that

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

no, if it was there then it was there, prolly just the synthetic oil leaked a bit faster so u noticed earlier.

Lexushead

yusych, I think it's your engine flush that created that leak. That stuff really clean the gunk around the gasket. It could also damage the gasket that had been weathered for a long time. I had a Plymouth Conquest back in the late 80's and I flush the engine with engine flush and the seal deteriated. I had to change the seal. I never use engine flush ever since.