PS Pump ReSeal Cakewalk
01-26-10, 05:23 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
PS Pump ReSeal Cakewalk
It had just begun to leak. No How-To here, but a quick rundown on what worked for me. Started at 11:00AM finished at 6:30PM.
Took the pulley off while on the car. Took reservoir off while pump was still bolted on the car. Loosened the idle-up valve and removed high-pressure line while on the car.
This made removing it without disturbing water hoses or ABS junk a piece of cake (I do have a special two piece fan shroud and removed right half):
Did not have a vise. How stupid is that? Had to use a long big phillips through the mounting bracket holes to get the pump body bolts loose.
Borrowed a slide puller from Advance Auto Parts, it has a perfect little square deal that you can put over drive shaft and hold with the car's pulley nut and a thick washer. Just held the slide part of the hammer and picked up the pump and let it drop about six times and the shaft was out of the pump.
Removed flow valve seat and spring, popped out the drive rotor end plates with an extension and hammer taps, drove seal out with a drift punch (be careful here) and presto, all apart in the sun:
Cleaned everything seriously carefully with a can of GumOut and a nylon bristle brush. Pump had a nasty layer of slime and residue. Cut the seals out of the end plates and pump body end cap very carefully as you do not want to ever nick seal grooves. Cleaned again.
Drove new shaft seal in, slipped on new end plate seals, installed end plate and pins and shaft/bearing with a baptism of ATF, reassembled rotor and vanes:
Put it all back together and BOOM! no instrument lights, no interior lamps, no radio no shift interlock, wtf? Did that dribble of ATF when taking off the reservoir hose to rebuild my pump to stop any leak that could kill the alternator, JUST KILL THE ALTERNATOR?
Quick trip to AutoZone for a 120A fusible link, many prayers, all came back, all worked, pump is quiet, steers well, and it is too dark to see if all is dry.
But, easy enough job, mostly fun, and thank-you to my alternator for choosing to soldier on after that reservoir hose bath.
Colin!
Took the pulley off while on the car. Took reservoir off while pump was still bolted on the car. Loosened the idle-up valve and removed high-pressure line while on the car.
This made removing it without disturbing water hoses or ABS junk a piece of cake (I do have a special two piece fan shroud and removed right half):
Did not have a vise. How stupid is that? Had to use a long big phillips through the mounting bracket holes to get the pump body bolts loose.
Borrowed a slide puller from Advance Auto Parts, it has a perfect little square deal that you can put over drive shaft and hold with the car's pulley nut and a thick washer. Just held the slide part of the hammer and picked up the pump and let it drop about six times and the shaft was out of the pump.
Removed flow valve seat and spring, popped out the drive rotor end plates with an extension and hammer taps, drove seal out with a drift punch (be careful here) and presto, all apart in the sun:
Cleaned everything seriously carefully with a can of GumOut and a nylon bristle brush. Pump had a nasty layer of slime and residue. Cut the seals out of the end plates and pump body end cap very carefully as you do not want to ever nick seal grooves. Cleaned again.
Drove new shaft seal in, slipped on new end plate seals, installed end plate and pins and shaft/bearing with a baptism of ATF, reassembled rotor and vanes:
Put it all back together and BOOM! no instrument lights, no interior lamps, no radio no shift interlock, wtf? Did that dribble of ATF when taking off the reservoir hose to rebuild my pump to stop any leak that could kill the alternator, JUST KILL THE ALTERNATOR?
Quick trip to AutoZone for a 120A fusible link, many prayers, all came back, all worked, pump is quiet, steers well, and it is too dark to see if all is dry.
But, easy enough job, mostly fun, and thank-you to my alternator for choosing to soldier on after that reservoir hose bath.
Colin!
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