thebeeguy

This is not quite a writeup, but more so some notes I took when installing my new stereo because while I was researching threads here, I didn't really find all the info i needed.

Basic rundown:
1995 LS400, Came with the Pioneer head unit and 6 Disc changer, NOT NAKAMICHI! My objective was to install an aftermarket head unit, subwoofers and amplifier, but still retain the factory speakers in the doors, and disconnecting the factory 8" sub.

I used:
Aftermarket pioneer doubledin head unit.
2 12" Subwoofers
Hifonics Mono sub amp.
OEM Speakers with factory amplifier.

I used this wiring diagram to figure out the wiring i needed to do http://www.mediafire.com/file/n2ygzzmzf53/lf1rap96.pdf. You WILL need basic knowledge of wiring diagrams to do this, but I'll TRY to make it as simple as I can.

Basically all you will need to do is wire in 4 RCA jacks to your factory wiring to plug into the back of your new head unit, and wire up 1 more wire to turn on the factory amplifier for your door speakers.

Looking at the pictures of the plugs in the wiring diagram, you will only be needing to use plugs "R 2 B" and R 3 C GRAY"

You will be cutting the wires that go to the factory plug and soldering on RCA Jacks. It is easier to buy a cheap RCA cable with 4 Male ends, and then just cutting the plugs off with about 5-6 inches of wire still attached.

Take a White RCA Jack and solder the Green wire from pin 14 of plug B to the negative lead of the RCA Jack.
Solder the Red wire from pin 5 of plug B to the positive of the RCA jack. This is for the Rear Left speaker.

Take a Red RCA Jack and solder the White wire from pin 7 of plug B to the negative lead of the RCA Jack.
Solder the Black wire from pin 2 of plug B to the positive of the RCA jack. This is for the Front Left speaker.

Take a White RCA Jack and solder the Green wire from pin 13 of plug B to the negative lead of the RCA Jack.
Solder the Tellow wire from pin 4 of plug B to the positive of the RCA jack. This is for the Rear Right speaker.

Take a Red RCA Jack and solder the Red wire from pin 6 of plug B to the negative lead of the RCA Jack.
Solder the White wire from pin 1 of plug B to the positive of the RCA jack. This is for the Front Right speaker.

Now these are ready to plug into your new head unit. DO NOT just skip wiring in RCA's and just wiring them into the Speaker wires coming out of your new head unit! Those wires are Amplified wires that are meant to go to un-amplified speakers. Just tape those up because they are unused.

Take the Pink wire with blue line (i think it was a blue line, just look at the pin location on the plug) from pin 11 plug B and solder that wire to the "REMOTE" or "SYSTEM REMOTE CONTROL" lead on your new head unit. This will turn on the factory amplifier.

The Gray wire, pin 6 on plug C can be used for the ACC wire on your new headunit.

Do not use the factory head unit 12V power wire to power your new headunit, chances are the wire is too small, just run a thicker wire to a 12V constant source.

Ground the head unit to the steel brace/tube behind the dash, you'll see it right in front of your face when your factory head unit is out. I just used a self-tapping screw. Just make sure it makes good contact to the metal tube.

As for the rest of the plugs that you don't use, I just taped them up and tucked them away, they are un-needed.

A few quick notes:
Your factory changer will not work anymore (it won't work with your new head unit anyways.)

The factory amplified speakers get LOUD, and I mean LOUD and still sound clear. I am running 2 12" alpine Type R's in a ported 1-1.5 cu/ft enclosure and they still sound very loud and clear enough to hear over the Bass.

The factory subwoofer can just be unplugged and removed. No need to remove the factory amp and wiring for it, just tuck the wire away.

Some people will tell you that you need some sort of Hi/Lo converter for this install, but this is NOT true. The only time you will need this is if you use the FACTORY HEAD UNIT with AFTERMARKET SUBWOOFERS!

Any other questions feel free to ask!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

good notes, but if you have a cheaper headunit with no preamp stereo outputs (ala rca connectors normally) you will need a hi/lo converter.

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

the only limitations i saw when using an aftermarket deck with stock amp was that you could never adjust the gain on the stock amp. so to me personally when i had it setup my interior speakers sound pretty weak. But i guess it might of been because i had 2 12w6v2 in the back.

skeetguy

To: thebeeguy. Good write-up on your install. However, I have a few questions.

How did you wire the power antenna on R3C pin 12? And up to 30" antenna height for FM and up to top for AM?

Also, how did you wire the dimmer/illumination, which is pin 8 on plug R3C? Maybe your HU does not have this capability. I don't know about mine yet because it has not arrived yet.
Thanks

thebeeguy

Actually, I didn't even hook up the antenna (never use it), nor did I use the Dimmer. Sorry that wasn't much help! I just NEVER listen to the radio, and usually never hook up the dimmer since I usually have all my interior lights on the brightest setting anyways.

xLowNSlowx

Sorry for bringing this old thread back from the dead, but how did you connect the "remote turn on" wire from the aftermarket subwoofer amp if the remote lead from the HU is used by the factory amp? can i connect both remote turn on wires to the blue HU wire?

johnnyg66

You can daisy chain them to turn both amps on. I like using posi taps myself.

LSTex

Awesome writeup! It's just what I was looking for.

After buying my wife a new car, I "inherited" her 96 LS400. I'll be attempting to wire a Kenwood KDC-X996 Head Unit into the existing Pioneer amp. The existing system sounds good, but it doesn't have hands free phone or USB MP3.

I'd really like to use the stock sub woofer as well, so I might be experimenting with some wiring there. I'll also see about wiring up the power antenna and illumination and report back here if I can get everything working.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

or you could just buy the beatsonic harness and enjoy plug and play integration lol.

LSTex

Sound advice. If I was smarter, I'd follow it.

But then I wouldn't have a reason to do "fun with home surgery" on the stereo.

LSTex

I checked out Beatsonic and saw that they want $225.00 for the 1995-1997 harness. Are the wires solid rhodium or something? It took about a dollar's worth of solder, tape and wire ties to hook it up according to the wiring diagram that thebeeguy linked in the op. I went slow and spent part of an evening removing the old one, cleaning under the panels and installing the new one.

It's an old question, but the antenna connection is the black and red wire on connector R3C pin 12 mentioned in skeetguy's reply.

All of the speakers sound great, including the subwoofer. The KDC-X996 has a "pro" setup mode that lets you input the speaker sizes, car size, subwoofer boost and a few other options. The original head unit sounded like a broken AM radio compared to the sound that's coming from those speakers now. Color me a happy camper.

Thanks, thebeeguy!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

because at this moment they have the only plug and play harness that retains all factory speakers INCLUDING the stock sub.

phlorida

TheBeeGuy only addressed the front and rear speakers, not the sub - can you share the details of how you connected the sub in your setup?

Also, which dash kit did you use?

Thanks!

LSTex

I followed the instructions in thebeeguy's first post, soldering some RCA jacks to the car's wiring harness and connecting them to the Kenwood's pre-outs (NOT the amplified outputs). The subwoofer automatically works because it's handled through the regular pre-outs. The Kenwood has subwoofer level control, so I assume it just boosts the low frequencies and the amp takes care of the rest.

I should note that I only have one amp under the passenger's seat. There's no separate amp in the trunk.

It was obvious by the sound that it was working, but to double check it, I removed the subwoofer cover and saw that it was bouncing with the music. I also wanted to make sure it was in good shape, so an inspection was in the cards anyway.

One item of note though. Even though the harness appeared original, the head unit had been replaced at some time. I have a 96 LS and the manufacture date on the stock head unit was 1999. I assume that means it was originally destined for a 2k LS.

I used a Scosche dash kit that has the pocket below the DIN mount. I had to widen the hole in the pocket so my USB connector would fit through it, but it's hidden well and the pocket can hold my USB drive or MP3 player without it being visible to passers by.

I don't think I can post an active auction here, but you can easily find it by searching ebay for a "Lexus Single/Double Din Stereo Radio install Mount Dash Kit +Wire Harness Plug" and looking it up for your year model.

The Scosche kit came with 2 wiring harness adaptors, but they weren't for an amplified system. I tossed them in the trash and just soldered the RCA jacks to the stock harness. Also, thebeeguy suggests using a new 12VDC constant from another source, but since I'm not using the head unit's amp section, I found the existing 12VDC constant to be sufficient. If you need more amperage, you can steal the constant power from the CD player in the upper glove box, since it won't be needed anymore.

phlorida

OK that makes sense, you are using the Kenwood crossover. I don't have an amp in the trunk either.

I purchased a Scosche dash kit also but mine didn't come with a harness. The replacement dash is black and my existing dash is gold metallic so I am not sure how that is going to look. Mine has the pocket also for use with a 1 DIN unit. I hadn't thought of routing the cable through that - great idea.

One last question if you don't mind. Where is the sub? I haven't even looked for it yet.

Thanks for your follow up.