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I meant nut, sorry. The passenger side came out pretty easy, bottom of driver side is out (mounts separated, completely shot), I just have to work on the upper nut... It really is testing my patience
Sprayed PB Blaster for now, hopefully that will help.
I did not drop the rack, it's optional if you want to drop. Whatever makes the process easier for you. I will tell you that I had to pry the cross member/sub frame down with a crow bar and KEEP downward pressure on it while my helper turned the nut. It took a long time since the the wrench can only turn a little at a time.
i cannot break loose upper nut on driver side, what did you guys use? Flex head ratcheting wrench?
I used a flex head ratcheting socket drive, with a short socket (17mm, I think). I did that job about 8 years ago, and if I did not have that tool, I'd probably still be working on it.
I now understand why it was hard to undo the upper nut on driver side. I tried doing it with engine raised and it was pressing on the nut upward, making it hard to turn. I put front of the car on ramps and the nut turned easily. Once the upper nuts removed, I put the car on 4 jack stands and followed the instructions here.
My flex head ratcheting wrench did not fit over the upper nuts - walls of the wrench are too thick.
I used a regular box wrench with slightly curved head. Had the curve been more aggressive, it would be even easier. I wonder if a stubby wrench would work better on tightening driver side nut.
Both engine mounts and transmission mount were separated, came out in pieces.
I did unbolt the cross member, but didn't disconnect the lower control arm, just pried the cross member enough to push the bottom stud of the engine mount in place.
The entire job took me almost 7 hours, but I changed the steering rack bushings along the way and cleaned everything thoroughly as I was going, removed the heater valve completely, pinched off the hose that goes in fom the left.
Great write up! My only thoughts is that its not necessary to remove the nuts for the camber to complete the work. I recommend starting with the driver side since it is the hardest and work out from there. I purchased all three mounts made in the USA on eBay for $66.95. I was a bit skeptical at the price but they look good and are better than the torn oem ones.
Great write up! My only thoughts is that its not necessary to remove the nuts for the camber to complete the work. I recommend starting with the driver side since it is the hardest and work out from there. I purchased all three mounts made in the USA on eBay for $66.95. I was a bit skeptical at the price but they look good and are better than the torn oem ones.
What brand mounts are advertised as better than OEM for this application??
How do you or the supplier quantify they are better?
While I have reservations about the design (once they separate..no safety catch) I ask because you are the first to suggest that non Lexus brand motor mount is better than OEM..
What brand mounts are advertised as better than OEM for this application??
How do you or the supplier quantify they are better?
While I have reservations about the design (once they separate..no safety catch) I ask because you are the first to suggest that non Lexus brand motor mount is better than OEM..
Thanks for sharing.
Hands down OEM Toyota parts are best since its is manufactured and designed to the specifications/quality for any Lexus vehicle. I am sorry I was not clear the OEM ones in my case where original and shot to hell. So with that said, what I am about to say may just be my opinion. For what the car is worth and the reliability of non OEM parts I chose to go with aftermarket since its kinda a wash in my opinion. The reality is an engine mount that is aftermarket with a five year warranty is going to be much nicer than the ripped haggard 20+ year old mounts your drive line is sitting on. I may or may not get the same amount of time out of the life span compared to the OEM but for $75 all my mounts are new (sorry was wrong on price in orig. post). Its not like I spent $195 for two engine mounts and $50 for transmission mount for a total of $245. I am not saying this as a debate since OEM WILL BE BETTER.
In the end it really is a question to ask yourself what you think it is worth to you.
I bought my engine/transmission mounts HERE on eBay they are affordable and fit like a glove. Also, I like the fact that they are made in America. If you want genuine engine mounts or transmission mount I added the links. NOTE, I linked for model years 1995-1997 you may need to do a search if you have a different model year.
Photo of my old mounts you can see where they where separating near the top. I felt a vibration in the gear **** and I did have a bid for the last owner stating that they need to be replaced.
Last edited by LexusNAZ; 05-25-17 at 11:21 PM.
Reason: price quote wrong.
Great write up! My only thoughts is that its not necessary to remove the nuts for the camber to complete the work. I recommend starting with the driver side since it is the hardest and work out from there. I purchased all three mounts made in the USA on eBay for $66.95. I was a bit skeptical at the price but they look good and are better than the torn oem ones.
Do you have the link to the $66.95 three mounts? Thanks. I will need to get a set of the mounts.
Hands down OEM Toyota parts are best since its is manufactured and designed to the specifications/quality for any Lexus vehicle. I am sorry I was not clear the OEM ones in my case where original and shot to hell. So with that said, what I am about to say may just be my opinion. For what the car is worth and the reliability of non OEM parts I chose to go with aftermarket since its kinda a wash in my opinion. The reality is an engine mount that is aftermarket with a five year warranty is going to be much nicer than the ripped haggard 20+ year old mounts your drive line is sitting on. I may or may not get the same amount of time out of the life span compared to the OEM but for $75 all my mounts are new (sorry was wrong on price in orig. post). Its not like I spent $195 for two engine mounts and $50 for transmission mount for a total of $245. I am not saying this as a debate since OEM WILL BE BETTER.
In the end it really is a question to ask yourself what you think it is worth to you.
I bought my engine/transmission mounts HERE on eBay they are affordable and fit like a glove. Also, I like the fact that they are made in America. If you want genuine engine mounts or transmission mount I added the links. NOTE, I linked for model years 1995-1997 you may need to do a search if you have a different model year.
Photo of my old mounts you can see where they where separating near the top. I felt a vibration in the gear **** and I did have a bid for the last owner stating that they need to be replaced.
Thanks. I bought the last set, paying $66.95 for the 3 mounts.
03-17-16, 06:30 PM
