python

iTrader: (4)

so my calipers are arriving today, i will be fitting them on, i need to know if i am going to have any issues like the backing plate getting in the way or the lower ball joints not letting the caliper bolt up so i can turn my wheels to make sure i have the correct clearance...any input would be appreciated, thanks

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

you need 2LS balljoints.

python

iTrader: (4)

ya i know im going to need them, but im not going to buy everything until i fit the calipers on first, my question is this>>>>will i be able to mount the calipers on without any issues, thanks for the reply though LiCelsior

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

you should be able too but i just know that for the 1LS to run 2LS 4pot brakes, you will definitely need the 2LS balljoints and wheels to clear them.

python

iTrader: (4)

well im sure the backing plate will need to be peeled back or cut,so im hoping the calipers wont hit the lower ball joints hence preventing me from mounting the calipers so i can see if my rims will have the clearance or not

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

you should be able to just MOUNT the calipers without the 2nd gen LBJs but you won't be able to drive the car like that at all. but for fitting purposes should be fine. backing plate MIGHT need to be cut/replaced with 2LS piece.

just to confirm, you ARE using 2nd gen rotors as well RIGHT, the brakes won't even come close to working right with the 1st gen rotors.

python

iTrader: (4)

thanks p/d i will be fitting and then replacing rotors,lower ball joints,brake lines(ss) and pads

BLKonBLK98

is this swap documented anywhere? did a couple searches but found nada. sounds interesting.

JimsGX

I did the Goodridge SS lines, pads, rotors, new (reman) 1st Gen calipers and OEM pads last weekend. The SS lines made a big difference. Totally flushed the system too (2 quarts of synthetic). Before doing the work, I didn't have a lot of confidence in the braking, now the car stops really well and the pedal is much firmer due to the Goodridge lines.

There was a brake job done on the car about 10k miles ago by Lexus (previous owner, I have the invoice), they totally screwed it up. Not only didn't it stop well, there were all kinds of vibrations. All's well now...

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that's not the lines as much as it is swapping out the fluid.

$5 says if you replaced the fluid THEN swapped the lines after driving on it you wouldnt feel NEARLy as big a difference.

JimsGX

Can't disagree with that. For all I know the fluid could have been 18yrs old. It was a caramel color. The new synthetic is essentially clear. I had ordered racing fluid and ceramic pads along with the Goodridge lines from buybrakes.com, but after three weeks of waiting for the pads and fluid, I got impatient and cancelled the order. Ended up using Valvoline synthetic and OEM pads.

The right rear rotor was warped and the left front was oversized in thickness. There wasn't enough room on the outboard side of the rotor for the pad to fit between the rotor and the caliper. Because of this, the outside pad had worn down considerably over 10k miles. The outside pad material was noticeably thinner than the inside pad. When Lexus installed them new, they must have had to use a 3lb sledge hammer to get the caliper over the rotor and pads. The replacement rotor was fine.

Before all this, I picked up an infrared heat sensor at the local Autozone and shot the rotors after running the car for around 20 miles on the highway. Found that the right rear rotor was running almost 30 degrees hotter than the left rear. Left rear was 98.5 degrees and right rear was 126/128 degrees. Found a similar difference between the left and right front. Normal operating temperature for a front rotor is somewhere in the range of 135 to 150 degrees. I'm sure ambient temperature would effect this result somewhat. It was around 55 degrees out when I got a reading of 142.5 degrees on the fronts.

Figuring out all the vibrations on this car has been a real challenge. I'll post a summary of everything I've done and discovered one day soon after I work out one or two small remaining bugs. I've learned a lot and my wallet's a lot thinner.

python

iTrader: (4)

http://www.lextreme.com/lsbrake.html

BLKonBLK98

i had seen that and was actually interested in the 2ls swap for the rear to go along with the supra front. is that what you are doing or 2ls all around?

python

iTrader: (4)

no....just doing the front,i think ill be changing the rear lines to ss and going from dot 3 to either dot 4 or dot 5.1

BLKonBLK98

has anyone fitted the rear that you know of? i saw in the write up it was a consideration but was not confirmed to work.

*edit - did a couple more informed searches and found plenty of info. still haven't found confirmation on the rear though.