Banshee365

Hey guy's, '96 LS here. I've seen alot of issues on Gen 1 cars but my Gen 2 has been leaking refridgerant out over 3 weeks or so until it doesn't blow cold anymore. I've got a leak somewhere. A local shop put dye in the system to help find the leak but they said they couldn't find anything after we brought it back after driving it for a couple weeks.

Where are the common leak spots on the Gen 2 cars? I'm thinking maybe the Evaporator is leaking since it's all behind the dash. Factory Service Bulletins say to run the AC full cold, then shut off and clamp the drain hose from underneath for 20-30 minutes. Then release it and try and detect freon with a sniffing tool. Where do yall think the leak may be if a shop couldn't find it? It's pretty slow but leaking empty after 3 weeks isn't all that slow.

I've got all the factory manuals. To replace the evaporator they have you remove the front seat, both airbags, steering wheel, side interior trim, entire dash and dash support. That's just nuts!! On the Gen 1 cars I've read of people just pulling it out from the passangers side after moving the glovebox and other things in the way. Can the Gen 2 be done this way to or would I be taking the whole dash apart?

Also, after the system is evacuated I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace every o-ring I can find before it's charged back up. Think that's a good idea? Guess I could use my manuals to find where all of the connections are.

Any input? Thanks guy's!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

when was the last time you had it refilled?

mista808

If the shop put in dye, then it has to have leaked out somewhere. You can try and find it yourself. Just gotta get yourself a black light, and try to look for it during the night. The lights we have at work are powerful and bright enough to be able to see the dye during the day. Most common areas, compression fittings or high pressure clamp areas. Condensor- in the corners where the ends meet the fins, evap core, bottom of the accumulator. You can tell if its the evap by blowing the a/c full blast (given that your system is fully charged), you'll be able to smell it in the cabin area.

Banshee365

It's been about 3 months since the dye was added, maybe a little less. Should it still be visible with a blacklight?

It doesn't blow cold at all tight now and I am trying to figure out if I should take it to a shop to have them charge it the proper way with gauges or just try and charge it myself as much as I can with an autoparts store setup with the little trigger valve on the top. I know that's not the right way but it helps a little. I don't want to just keep charging it because I feel it's got to be losing some oil too and I don't want to keep dilluting it. Should I goto a shop and pay to have it charged all the way up or just spend the $35 or so in cans to charge it up then look for the leak again myself with a blacklight?

Looking foward to fixing this thing once and for all.

jeffls400

Hey Banshee365,

I recently went through my A/C system with positive results. For the last two summers, I was stymied, but this year I made the decision to replace the rubber hoses (I actually had my hoses rebuilt) and all o-rings. I would recommend this first before tearing into the dash to replace the evaporator and expansion valve. The hose with the highest probability of failure in my experience is the discharge hose on the compressor. It is difficult to see (and test) for leakage on the hoses at the compressor due to the protective rubber sheath protecting the hoses. Once I removed the protective sleeves, I found a good deal of the red dye the dealer pumped through the system to find leaks last year. Here is a link to my thread about the overhaul.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-91-ls400.html

Good luck,

Jeff

Banshee365

Did your hoses leak near the connections at compression fitting where they are connected to the metal connector or did they spring a leak in the middle of the hose? Maybe I'll cut back just enough of the insulator or what-have-you near the fittings with the blacklight to check for the dye. I was going to recharge it up with a can or two of refridgerant and run it until it starts leaking and maybe check the water that leaks out for dye from the evaporator. The dye was installed 2-3 months ago but do you think if it's leaked out it would still be visible? Any other ideas that would help me check for leaks myself with a detector?

jeffls400

The hoses were leaking along the rubber hoses themselves. The dye will be in the system for a good while; I bet there is enough left to show the leaks. With a leak detector (refrigerant detector type), trace it along the rubber hoses and all of the joints on its most sensitive setting.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

Banshee365

Just spent about 30 minutes under and over the engine bay looking for the green dye with a black light. The High Pressure fitting to fill is super bright green from where they put the dye in. I think it sprayed a little because there are a few specs splattered around. Most of the oil under the car also had a bit of a green tint to it with the black light. The compressor has a light film of oil around it, mostly around the front. I've never cleaned it off so it's 13 years worth of oil residue but it is light green under the light. The timing belt covers which as a little greasy also have this same tint.

I cannot find the evaporator drain hose for the life of me. I'm guessing it's on the passanger side but I just can't seem to find it. Is it near the exhaust or what? Is it fore or aft of the cats? It's a 1996. A picture or diagram would be awesome. Or just a good description so I can check the inside of the tube for a green residue. The fittings of the lines on the compressor didn't show any green.

amcdonal86

I would also love to know where this drain is.

williamb82

sounds like the compressor front seal is leaking. kinda common on toyota compressors with alot of use.

Banshee365

Thanks man. The front seal was leaking and I replaced the compressor with a good used part for $125. However, I do think my evaporator core was the main problem. When I pulled mine out the bottom half was all corroded and bright bright green when hit with the blacklight. I replaced it with a good used core from a wrecked LS for $75. It's been perfect since.

Banshee365

BTW the evaporator core is super easy to replace. Don't even think about removing any airbags, dash, etc... Remove both glove boxes, ECM, cd player, and blower and the evapator core slides out after the cover is removed. I had it out in 15 minutes, no kidding. I've heard most say alot long than that but I got some practice as I had to remove it twice due to a bad connection on one of the lines the first time around. First time took a hour and a half or so, the second was 15 mins. Amazing how much faster it comes apart when you know how it comes apart and don't have to be so careful.

williamb82

glad you got it sorted. im surprised it was corroded that badly. must have had a clogged drain that didnt let the moisture out to make it oxidize/corrode that bad.

Banshee365

Not sure, as I do hear about ALOT of leaky evaporator's. The drain tube was 100% clear and drains perfectly. Seems to be a mileage wear item, just like I believe the ECM is in certain years.