’93 LS400 Rear Suspension tips for install of new air struts
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’93 LS400 Rear Suspension tips for install of new air struts
First off – love the forum. I have found countless answers to help perfect my beloved 93 LS400. All of you posting in the forum are great. My LS has about 120k and several weeks back the driver side factory air strut started leaking bad when parked on a slant. So I ordered two rebuilt OEM’s from Suncore and just got them. I know a lot of you would probably opt for a conversion kit, but I love the soft & quiet factory ride. I am a good DIY guy, but was looking for any trouble spots anyone has had before I began the weekend project. Appreciate your feedback.
#3
The left side strut is an easy replacement as there's plenty of room between the engine and the air line infeed,when you undo the 14 mm long nut that is on the end of the air line only undo it enough to let the air bleed out slowly,sometimes you have to give the air line a tug as it has two "O" rings on it and it has been in there for a long time.
If you just undo the nut all the way before the air is bled out it can blow the fitting out and slightly damage the start of the thread making it hard to get it started on the new strut.
If you compress the strut up you can get it out without removing any of the suspension, it helps if you take the caliper off though as it gives you a lot more room.
There is a flapper type valve on the inside of the strut so you might have to insert a little screwdriver to hold it open so that you can compress the strut all the way up.
On the other side room is really tight to get at the air line nut,I always take the MAF off and the plastic box on the rocker cover,you will end doing it anyway so might as well do it from the beginning,not so hard getting the air line off but putting it back is another story and you certainly don't want to cross thread that nut !!
Takes about an extra 10 mins to get the box and MAF off but it will save you hours and make the job a lot more pleasant.
Don't forget to turn the suspension off in the boot before you start.
If you just undo the nut all the way before the air is bled out it can blow the fitting out and slightly damage the start of the thread making it hard to get it started on the new strut.
If you compress the strut up you can get it out without removing any of the suspension, it helps if you take the caliper off though as it gives you a lot more room.
There is a flapper type valve on the inside of the strut so you might have to insert a little screwdriver to hold it open so that you can compress the strut all the way up.
On the other side room is really tight to get at the air line nut,I always take the MAF off and the plastic box on the rocker cover,you will end doing it anyway so might as well do it from the beginning,not so hard getting the air line off but putting it back is another story and you certainly don't want to cross thread that nut !!
Takes about an extra 10 mins to get the box and MAF off but it will save you hours and make the job a lot more pleasant.
Don't forget to turn the suspension off in the boot before you start.
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Rich...
That's ok...I got them in just fine. It took more time just doing all the prep work in the back and in the trunk...but now I know the rear inside and out.
Thanks
Dana
That's ok...I got them in just fine. It took more time just doing all the prep work in the back and in the trunk...but now I know the rear inside and out.
Thanks
Dana
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