jcrome04

I soon am going to take on the duty of changing out my coolant, and cleaning my Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) or Idle Speed Control (ISC). I also am going to try to make a DIY out of both of the procedures for any fellow members that want to tackle this themselves. So before I do this I want to get all the proper info.

Coolant Drain/Flush/Fill:

1. What is the exact coolant called? And what is the pricing?
I've read to use pre-diluted 50/50 Toyota Red Long life coolant, but also heard it's spendy. What is the difference between the long life coolant and regular coolant? Also a price difference if available?

2. The system is set up a little different on the 95-97 LS than the 1st gen LS like on the LexLS tutorial. When underneath my car I can only see one drain **** on the bottom of the radiator. Is this the only one??

3. Should I use any type of flush, or cleaner? Like the Prestone products?
Since there is no direct opening to the radiator. How would something like this be used? Or should it even be used at all??

4. What is proper procedure for this process? The same as the LexLS tutorial for the 1st gen? Is there still a filler plug by the water inlet housing?

5. So basically... Drain, Fill with cleaner and water, Drain, fill with water, Drain, Fill with Final coolant. Is it really ok to just use tap water when doing the flush, and after the flush?

also... what is the coolant capacity? any torque specs for any parts??



IACV Cleaning:

I figured this will be a good time to do the IACV cleaning since coolant needs to be drained in order for this part to be removed.

From some searching I have found to use a carb clener type product that is O2 safe like the Valvoline Syn Power.

REMEMBER TO BUY A NEW GASKET!!

Are there any precautions I need to take?? Do I need to be "extra gentle" with any parts? Or is it basically like cleaning the Throttle Body, where you just spray the cleaner on, and wipe it down??



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I think that this should clear up all my questions. If I have missed anything feel free to point it out!

As I said before the club will be blessed with step-by-step full color photos of both procedures!



Thanks in advance for everything!

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

just remove the whole radiator and flush the whole thing out. there are two drains on the block itself as shows on lexls tut. when the radiator is out, if u see it a little clogged just use a garden hose and spray it down, it wont harm the fins unless its a pressure washer. very easy to remove the radiator in these cars. on the radiator there is one draincock...well should be one, two lines for the cooler (one inlet one outlet) and the temperature sensor. you could buy the cheapo green ish and use that to flush but it wont all get out unless u drain the block also. i used a prestone super flush thing when i flushed mine, worked easy.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

mostly it is the same, there arent drain ***** iirc, there is only ONE on the radiator, the rest are bolts. i'll try to check my '95 service manual tonight.

use toyota red coolant or compatible, it uses a different basse than "normal" coolant.

nthach

If you thoroughly flush the cooling system out, you can also use the newer pink or Peak Global/Professional Lifetime - both of them have organic acid and no silicates while Toyota Pink has phosphate for fast protection against corrosion and cavitation - Peak Global is a straight OAT coolant. Mixing these with Toyota Red - even a small trace is a .

Just don't use Dex-Cool, Prestone or conventional green coolant and you'll be fine.

nthach

I've haven't pulled my IAC valve, but I've cleaned my EGR passages before.

jcrome04

Hey thanks a lot guys. And PD that would be real helpful if you could find that. Very much appreciated.

So Is there still that filler plug on the water inlet housing on the 2nd gen? I need to go look under the hood today. It seems like it would be a lot easier to do the prestone flush stuff through there than removing the whole radiator..

The first gen's capacity is around 2.8 gallons if I'm correct? Is the 2nd gens different?

I'd rather stick with Toyota Red coolant to be safe.

nthach

You need to pull the V-bank shroud first to see if there's a fill point on the T-stat housing.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

confirming that filler point is indeed on water inlet housing, big 'ole hex bolt iirc.

3 drain points:

jcrome04

Yup I popped my hood and saw the big fat hex bolt! haha. Do you have any Torque specs for it?

Is there any specific order when draining the coolant from the plugs?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

no particular order, just make sure to open the inlet first otherwise the water wont really come out.

torque on the drain plugs (all 3) is 113 in. lbs.
torque on the inlet bolt is 33 ft. lbs.

total capacity with heater is ~2.9 gallons

jcrome04

Perfect. and 113 in lbs is about .. 9 ft lbs? My torque wrench only shows ft lbs.

Not the MOST advanced torque wrench, but does the job well

nthach

Get a new crush washer, and if you like you could also apply Teflon tape or a good PTFE-containing pipe dope such as Permatex Pipe Thread sealant or Oatey Great White - stuff like Rectorseal 5 won't cut it.

And you want to keep the mess down and avoid making coolant puddles, a 3/8" ID hose slips nicely over the drain **** nipples(no pun intended )

How's the water quality in your area?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

google says:
"113 (in. pounds) = 9.41666667 ft. pounds"

goodluck.

jcrome04

Water is good. Not hard.

New crush washer for what?


PD was that good luck sarcastic? Or constructive? lol

nthach

There's a aluminum crush washer for the fill bolt, you'll see it when the plug's off.