Questions about replacing timing belt on '99 LS400
01-26-09, 09:49 PM
#31
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No worries. I disagree but thats ok.
Toyota FIPG is called just that. FIPG. Its also black. Its the Crazy Glue of form a gasket. The stuff is just nuts.
Ask any Toyota or Lexus master tech what they use.
Toyota FIPG is called just that. FIPG. Its also black. Its the Crazy Glue of form a gasket. The stuff is just nuts.
Ask any Toyota or Lexus master tech what they use.
that is a generic term which means form in place gasket. the toyota stuff is grey. From all my reading and study i do not see the toyota FIPG any better than permatex FIPG. That is just my opinion.
I have used permatex FIPG all over my land cruiser when i replace a seal. no issues after 220,000 miles.
I have used permatex FIPG all over my land cruiser when i replace a seal. no issues after 220,000 miles.
01-26-09, 09:55 PM
#32
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Just a data point.
Our 92LS went 140k before I changed the timing belt in 2005. Its gone up to 287k now with no problems.
Our 98LS went 105k and 11years before I sold it last week. Belt still looks very good.
Our 99 LX470 with the TRD supercharger still has the OE timing belt and has 125k miles and 10 years of service.
Our 92LS went 140k before I changed the timing belt in 2005. Its gone up to 287k now with no problems.
Our 98LS went 105k and 11years before I sold it last week. Belt still looks very good.
Our 99 LX470 with the TRD supercharger still has the OE timing belt and has 125k miles and 10 years of service.
My '99 LS400 has a mere 63,000 miles, but is "in service" for 9.5 years. I am going to be putting a lot more miles on it than I have been, and am planning to replace the timing belt as I have exceeded the time interval by 3.5 years (even though I have not hit 90K miles).
Based on what I have read, it sounds as though these are all recommended replacements while you are in that far, even if they have not failed/show signs of wear yet:
1) timing belt
2) idler pulleys
3) tensioner
4) front crank seal (cam seals apparently are a totally different beast than on earlier year models)
5) thermostat
6) water pump
7) serpentine belt
Am I overlooking anything?
Other than the fact that my model does not have distributor/plug wires, is this tutorial the same/similar for a '99?: http://www.lextreme.com/timing.htm
What is the best/cheapest source for a factory service manual and/or access to pages for this maintenance?
Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
Based on what I have read, it sounds as though these are all recommended replacements while you are in that far, even if they have not failed/show signs of wear yet:
1) timing belt
2) idler pulleys
3) tensioner
4) front crank seal (cam seals apparently are a totally different beast than on earlier year models)
5) thermostat
6) water pump
7) serpentine belt
Am I overlooking anything?
Other than the fact that my model does not have distributor/plug wires, is this tutorial the same/similar for a '99?: http://www.lextreme.com/timing.htm
What is the best/cheapest source for a factory service manual and/or access to pages for this maintenance?
Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
01-27-09, 10:48 AM
#34
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Got the a/c compressor done.....couldn't get the philips screws holding the wiring bracket to budge, so I just bent the lower part of the bracket out of the way to make room for a socket. Not classy, but effective.
Still having issues with the alternator. I see no way to get alternator off of stud in order to remove tensioner bracket without either removing power steering pulley or power steering pump. I got the nut off of the pulley, but the pulley is stuck on there pretty good....perhaps corrosion adhesion? Shot it with PB Blaster, tapped, tried to pull, repeat, nothing yet. So, I look at power steering pump. No big deal.....just one bolt and one nut. Problem with the nut is that it is behind pulley, so no room for a socket, and scarcely any travel for a box end wrench. No luck getting the nut to move yet.
I'm open to suggestions!
Still having issues with the alternator. I see no way to get alternator off of stud in order to remove tensioner bracket without either removing power steering pulley or power steering pump. I got the nut off of the pulley, but the pulley is stuck on there pretty good....perhaps corrosion adhesion? Shot it with PB Blaster, tapped, tried to pull, repeat, nothing yet. So, I look at power steering pump. No big deal.....just one bolt and one nut. Problem with the nut is that it is behind pulley, so no room for a socket, and scarcely any travel for a box end wrench. No luck getting the nut to move yet.
I'm open to suggestions!
The PS pulley does come off and it was the only way I could get the generator off.
Before it final came off, I thought about fabing a backstop for the pulley remover. As you know by now, the PS pulley doesn't have screw holes to mount a remover. My thought was to cut a couple of pieces of steel, drill holes for bolts, put nuts on the bolts and pull it off. While I was cutting the steel, my buddy got it off. He said it just started to move and then came off.
I wouldn't try to remove the pump because even if you get the back nut off (and back on) a lot of the pumbling is hard pipe, not rubber. Therefore, you basically have to disconnect the pumbling to get it to move out of the way.
Here's a couple of other hints on the change out (their free, so take'em or leave'em).
My compressor only went to 140lbs. Therefore, it would not break loose the crank pulley bolt (or harmonic balancer, if you like). So, I went to the hardware store, purchased a steel pipe flange (the kind with 4-bolt holes and a big center hole). I measured the distance between the two holes on the pulley, drilled those out on the flang and welded a 1' 5/8" steel bar to the flang. I then mounted the flang on tight to the pulley and with two long breaker bars and my buddy we were able to break the bolt loose. (Save this part so you can put the bolt back to the 181lb ft).
Another hint is when you buy the thermostat, have them check to see if it's the same one as the XL470. O'Reilly's has a bad part number (4078 if I remember) and this one is too small. This cost me an hour of time (I don't live near any auto parts stores).
Use sandwich bags to hold your nuts and bolts. Many look the same size and their not. I removed parts, labelled the bag with a sharpie and placed the nuts/bolts in the bag. This made it much easier when putting it back together.
Take the opporunity to replace the hoses on the throttle body and water inlet. You've got them off and it's a lot easier now than doing it again in the future. Just purchase the hoses in length and cut them to fit making sure there are no kinks.
hope this helps.
01-27-09, 11:00 AM
#35
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I am just not seeing how to remove the alternator without removing the power steering pulley. In order to get it off of the stud it shares with the tensioner bracket, either the power steering pulley has got to move, or the alternator must swing in toward the center of the vehicle, which it can't because it butts up against something else.
The a/c compressor is turning out to be a real PITA. I can not get the little screws that hold the wire bracket to budge. I can barely squeeze on a socket with a universal adaptor on to the upper bolt....which I am assuming comes out cuz it appears to hold the lower right of the fan bracket.......but haven't been able to get enough leverage that way to break it loose yet. I shot it with PB Blaster and am letting it sit for a bit.
Ahhh, the joys of the driveway mechanic. Any suggestions?
The a/c compressor is turning out to be a real PITA. I can not get the little screws that hold the wire bracket to budge. I can barely squeeze on a socket with a universal adaptor on to the upper bolt....which I am assuming comes out cuz it appears to hold the lower right of the fan bracket.......but haven't been able to get enough leverage that way to break it loose yet. I shot it with PB Blaster and am letting it sit for a bit.
Ahhh, the joys of the driveway mechanic. Any suggestions?
I just noticed you joys with the A/C compressor. I carefully bent the wire bracket 90d towards the front of the car and then bent it back after I put it back together.
I'm wondering if you're removing the correct bolts, as I did not have the problem of space as you seem to be having. The two bolts are in-line with each other. The top one is the one just under the wire bracket and the bottom one is on the bottom of the compressor. You do have to remove both of these bolts to remove the fan bracket. Have you tried getting to these from the bottom? I think that is how I broke them loose.
Hope this helps.
01-31-09, 05:30 AM
#36
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ToyLexMods:
Looking at the timing belt I removed, I don't doubt that it could have gone longer without replacement. But, the thought in the back of my mind that I was nearly 4 years overdue on the time interval would torment me, so now I have peace of mind.
I did get the PS pulley off. I got the nut off easily, but the pulley wouldn't budge. I sprayed the center with PB Blaster and a couple days later gave it a few good whacks with a rubber mallet and it came off.
My crank nut came off EASILY with a borrowed compressor and impact wrench.
I bought a Lexus (i.e. Toyota) thermostat and gasket, so no problems there.
Instead of sandwich bags for the nuts and bolts, I used those plastic Glad containers, labeling each one. Not only did it isolate them, but made it easy to look at what was in each container. Good idea to segregate them however you do it.
LeBoyd:
It took me a while to figure out the bolts on the a/c compressor, but yeah, I got the correct ones. Even from underneath, the wire bracket didn't allow room for my socket, so like you, I bent it out of the way, bending it back afterward.
Looking at the timing belt I removed, I don't doubt that it could have gone longer without replacement. But, the thought in the back of my mind that I was nearly 4 years overdue on the time interval would torment me, so now I have peace of mind.
I did get the PS pulley off. I got the nut off easily, but the pulley wouldn't budge. I sprayed the center with PB Blaster and a couple days later gave it a few good whacks with a rubber mallet and it came off.
My crank nut came off EASILY with a borrowed compressor and impact wrench.
I bought a Lexus (i.e. Toyota) thermostat and gasket, so no problems there.
Instead of sandwich bags for the nuts and bolts, I used those plastic Glad containers, labeling each one. Not only did it isolate them, but made it easy to look at what was in each container. Good idea to segregate them however you do it.
LeBoyd:
It took me a while to figure out the bolts on the a/c compressor, but yeah, I got the correct ones. Even from underneath, the wire bracket didn't allow room for my socket, so like you, I bent it out of the way, bending it back afterward.
02-08-09, 07:36 PM
#37
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Hey Mike..I am going to change my TB this coming weekend for my 96'ls400..any tips, tricks, keypoint, or advise for this newbies? my LS current at 156k...and I believe it's a original belt..no record from the previous owner for timing service and they'r the original owner...also I think the p/s fluid got slow leak..b/c they've been replaced 2 alternators in the past 3 years..so I might fix that too..thanks
02-08-09, 09:50 PM
#38
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Hey mike, good to see you at the CL. The thing about visually inspecting a TB is that they can deteriorate internally long before there's any indication on the surface. By the time you see anything that would cause you to change it, probably too late. Always time it by the book on this one because if it goes ... well you know.
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